I have started on my first floor. It's been a long time coming, but I am now cutting some joinery for the sill plates.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34887/20180512_102224.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1526142319)
Awesome! I've been waiting a long time as well...still waiting ;)!
Scarfs are done. Cutting joist pockets now.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34887/20180518_144433.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1526682335)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34887/20180517_105037.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1526682631)
Almost ready for joists.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34887/20180523_132236.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1527103289)
The small joists are on the cutting boards.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34887/20180524_082343.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1527198846)
Beautiful! Love that foundation. Where are you?
I grew up in central Texas, that's my guess, looks familiar.
To the OP, that's a beautiful foundation!!!
That sure is nice work.
Guessed correctly. I am in central Texas. All of the rocks for the foundation were gathered here on the property. I am trying to build this house with all local materials (local being Texas.) The wood is So. Pine from east Texas. The sand is manufactured at a local quarry from dolomitic limestone. There is no cement in the mortar, but instead, quicklime produced at Austin White Lime. It was waterproofed with sodium bentonite from west Texas below grade, and an elastomeric at grade made up by Dallas.
While this isn't a timber frame, or log cabin, this website has been instrumental in my research for the timber parts. So thank you all for sharing your work and knowledge. Because this forum is such I good resource, I wanted to show my work to y'all.
What would y'all call this type of construction? It was commonly used in the historic settlements around here, except they used cypress and post oak.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34887/20180525_102432.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1527265258)
smiley_thumbsup popcorn_smiley
Along the banks of the creek, you can still see the trunks of cypress trees cut and milled over 100 years ago.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34887/20180412_190705.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1527271328)
The small joists, spanning 13.5', are 6x10 syp. The big joists, spanning 21', are 6x14.
I'd like the top of all joists to be level. The plan was to scoop the big joists down to 10" at the sill plate. I must cut the small joists down to 9.5" at the sill plates due to inconsistent milling. That means the big joists would also have to be cut down to 9.5" at the sill.
Scooping out 1/4 of the 14" joists would mean 10.5" at sill plate. I was already pushing it by planning to cut them to 10". Now I either need to shim up the small joists, or cut the big joists down to 9.5"
Can anyone walk me thru the engineering of cutting down joists? Is verticle shear the only thing to watch out for? Horizontal shear appears fine, requiring only 28 sqin for my loads. And I always assumed verticle shear was nothing to worry about. Would you shim up small joists or cut down big joists?
rule of thumb for floor joists:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10095/Rules%20of%20thumb-s.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1196530549)
Don't violate these rules.
Jim Rogers
d is at least 3/4 of h, don't remove more than 1/4 of joist depth. That is a limit in the code and NDS, so I would shim.
Shim it is. I will set all joists onto sill plates and shim up the floor with a 2x4 sleeper over the joists.
10" joists are cut down to 9.5"
14" joists will be cut down to 11"
More pictures one joists are being set.
That looks like it's going to be amazing once finished!
Thanks. I hope I live long enough to see it finished.
The cutting board is cleared and the small joists are in place...I have yet to wedge them permanently.
Tomorrow the big boys get put on the chop block. Still thinking about how to place the big ones, might be too heavy to set by hand.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34887/20180607_155830.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1528413922)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34887/20180607_155826.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1528414708)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34887/20180607_121925.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1528415236)
I have finally set the big boys.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34887/20180726_102920.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1532648715)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34887/20180726_103738.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1532648834)
And this is how I reached the 35' necessary to set joists:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34887/20180720_115143.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1532648923)
Many years ago, while on a construction site, I saw some timber framers cutting timbers. They were sawing with a big skill saw, flipping timber, and finishing cut on the other side.
I asked, "why dont y'all use a chainsaw?"
"Because we're carpenters, not butchers," one responded.
If there is any truth to that mans words, then consider me a butcher.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34887/20180716_090206.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1532649512)
You can do a bunch of things with a chainsaw that are not critical cuts that can save a bunch of time. I want the new Milwaukee 18 volt battery saw for making the odd cut. Mafell makes a very expensive chainsaw for timber framing. I think it's $8k.
Looking good!
Here is how it all locks together.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34887/20180727_075412.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1532697923)
And here is how I'll raise the floor over the small joists to be level with big joists using 2x4 sleepers.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34887/20180727_075913.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1532698057)
Keep'em coming; enjoying the build progress. 8)
:P
Waiting to see how this is going to work. Don't quite understand why the ends are cut the way you did and what that "walkway" thing down the middle is all about. Love the rock work!
The rock walls will continue vertically. There will however be doorways between sections of the house divided by the rock walls, thus the need for a level floor. The 2x4 sleepers will not pass thru the rock wall, as of yet unbuilt, but instead support about 6" of flooring. The photo was to check the level.
The joists are cut that way to facilitate the running of wires and plumbing between end of joist and rock walls; to be hidden later with trim boards.
The overhang on top of big joists, and the over hanging 2x4 upon the smaller joists, support about 6" of flooring upto the rock walls.
Hope that makes sense.
OK I think I get it. That will be a big mechanical chase on the joist ends. How much head room is that below the joists? Just a crawl (crouch) space or is it walkable?
The bedrock floor is not level. Clear space under joists ranges from 7'10" to 8'5".
I plan to have a full staircase to down below.
Here you can see the empty foundation. At far end there is scaffold standing. At far left is the construction staircase.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34887/20180201_123945.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1532736488)
Very interesting build and beautiful rock work!
I love your build and location. I was planning on retiring in the Hill Country, but my daughter announced she will be moving back here from the Austin (Manor) area. So no rocks in my future plans, just tons of pine trees here!
hugs, Brandi