Board tags that will work inside a kiln

scsmith42 · July 01, 2009, 11:57:12 PM

Can anybody suggest a good tagging system to use on boards that will be dried via a DH kiln?

I'd like to be able to produce a tag (via a computer) that I staple to the boards before they go into the kiln, so that I can separate different customer's boards, keep track of certain items, etc.

Offhand, I'm thinking that I'll need to generate them with a laser printer, because the ink from an ink-jet printer may run due to the humidity inside the kiln.

I'm not sure what type of material to use on the tag, and would appreciate any suggestions. Thanks much.

Scott

Radar67 · July 02, 2009, 12:29:28 AM

Scott, why not use different colored plastic disks? You wouldn't have to worry about humidity and could separate the orders by color. Something similar to this...

http://www.amernameplate.com/plasticdisks.htm

Or use pieces of plastic laminate, like the samples you get from the big box stores.

OneWithWood · July 02, 2009, 09:48:52 AM

Scott,

I use different colors of anchor seal on one end of the board to differentiate between customers. It is easy to apply, looks neat in the yard, and everyone can easily see if they grabbed the wrong board. The other end of the board is color coded by species.

Remember to reserve a color for yourself.

Ironwood · July 02, 2009, 10:19:27 AM

Marking paint?

Ironwood

WH_Conley · July 02, 2009, 09:59:16 PM

Naah, to simple.

Why is it that we overlook the easy fix?

scsmith42 · July 02, 2009, 10:44:53 PM

I appreciate the input so far; unfortunately I probably should have been more clear with my initial request.

I need to track up to 400 different boards inside the kiln load...

What I'd like is a way to generate a bar code and associated part number on a tag that I can attach to the side of the board when milling. I'll use a bar code scanner to assoicate the board with the proper record in a database.

Any ideas on how I can do this cost effectively? There is a professional company that sells pre-printed tags, but the price works out to be around .20 cents each in quantities of 5000. I'm thinking that there ought to be a way to generate these myself for less $.

Tom · July 03, 2009, 12:49:17 AM

Laser and ink jet printers will print bar code. The ink isn't too stable in humidity/water but I'll bet that a shot of clear lacquer over the tag when it is attached will fix that problem.

I'd be afraid of staples, (no, not Don :D ) but the metal ones, in the wrong place can ruin planer blades. I think that a glue would be the best stickem. Glue doesn't work on end grain too good, so you might have to depend on a staple there. 'Course a staple might misread as a bar on the bar code.

It's not like the label would have to withstand bad weather. I'll bet you could get by with a regular paper label.

You might rethink bar codes though. The readers and software can be expensive. I'll bet you could come up with your own version of the Dewey Decimal System that would allow you to catagorize the boards sufficiently.
Is there a reason that this has to be automated? An ID number and someone with a notebook might be a sensible way to go.

ellmoe · July 03, 2009, 06:37:46 AM

When I used to collect deer jaws for later aging I used aluminum tags. I'd write on the tags with pen or pencil and the idention is what I'd read. Since these tags held up in a bucket of half rotten bone and flesh I'm sure they hold up in a kiln. I don't believe they cost more than a few pennies. They were attached with a piece of twisted wire. However, they could be stapled through.

Mark

pineywoods · July 03, 2009, 09:30:55 AM

Back in my working days I built a system to do exactly what you describe. Printed bar code and serial numbers on small aluminum tags that were sticky glued on a paper form. With the proper software, just about any of the current inkjet and lazer printers will print bar code. I think we used a printronix printer that used tractor feed forms instead of flat sheets. Solves the alignment problem. Bar code scanners are readily available and cheap. There is one nasty gotcha. Bar code ain't necessarily bar code. There are at least a dozen different formats. Just make sure the printing software and the reader software are compatible.

scsmith42 · July 03, 2009, 09:07:48 PM

The aluminum tag comment got me to thinking... every year the Doc throws out a bunch of surplus rabies tags (out of date); only one side is stamped so I could use the other side, or even just use the numbers that are already on the tag (they all have uniques numbers on them, sequntially too!). I probably have a few thousand already in stock...

Can't beat the price, too...

THANKS GUYS!!!

boardum · July 04, 2009, 10:48:12 PM

We use a mylar tag from U-line. They come by the 1000. Staples don't rip through so it only takes one or use two for a backup. We write on them with permanent markers, which hold up well through the process.

OneWithWood · July 06, 2009, 12:51:15 PM

Quote from: scsmith42 on July 02, 2009, 10:44:53 PM
I need to track up to 400 different boards inside the kiln load...

Surely you don't have 400 different customers for one charge? There must be more to this story.
Are you attempting to rebuild the log after you unstack the lumber? What are you really up to, Scott? Inquiring minds want to know. ;)

scsmith42 · July 07, 2009, 12:10:00 AM

Quote from: OneWithWood on July 06, 2009, 12:51:15 PM
Quote from: scsmith42 on July 02, 2009, 10:44:53 PM
I need to track up to 400 different boards inside the kiln load...

Surely you don't have 400 different customers for one charge? There must be more to this story.
Are you attempting to rebuild the log after you unstack the lumber? What are you really up to, Scott? Inquiring minds want to know. ;)

Robert, I'll tell all once that I know that the concept works out... <grin>