Small saws? Thoughts?

[barak]

Thanks for the info.

I was looking at some saws today in the Stihl lineup. I got to swing around a MS 201 with the top handle, not cutting just inside. There was also an MS 196 or some number right next to it. The 201 is 35cc with a magnesium chassis/body/frame and the 190-something is 30cc and plastic. I don't know that I need the magnesium, and it was about another 3/4 more expensive.

I guess I am used to the "old fashioned" rear handle saws, that top handle design just doesn't feel right. I'm sure a lot of people have them. What comments do you have to offer on that design? I know they have variations with a rear-handle also, for the 201 its about $70 more, but you can get it.

I'm not real sure that is the right saw though. I'd rather have something light and real maneuverable, then fire up the bigger saw if I need it, than to get something a bit bigger and not run in to needing the bigger saw. That's what is great about options - they are just that. Plus, it spreads out the wear.

I use a 201 rear handle and it is extremely conveniente. I bought it only 6 months ago and here (in Israel) it was in the same price like the top handle 201. but than all the prices of saws here are about twice than in the US (tax tax tax). :'(

[NCFarmboy]

435 Husky is another choice.  I have one w/15" bar.  Nice light saw much cheaper in price.  I picked it up refurb for $110.  As for other choices Dolmar 420/421 (I want one) or as Steve said The CS400 Echo is an incredible little saw (I want one of them too).  I have a 455 Husky 20" bar I bought new in 2002 still has original chain on it.  Started collecting saws have many lighter more powerful options.  I'm not much on Stihls because there are other options that are cheaper and just as good IMO.
Shep

[mesquite buckeye]

If you are doing timber management, a pole type chainsaw is also a valuable addition. Also great for reaching into a big multiflora rose and cutting out its center stems at the base w/o having to get cut up wading into it. ;D 8) 8) 8)

[Dave VH]

  When I work a tree, I load my 440, 261, and 192 in the truck.  The bigger trees get the 440 to drop, and sometimes buck.  The 192 gets all of the small limb work, (I have used a 200t quite a bit, but when it came time to buy my own I decided to save the money, and I don't regret it at all).  The 261 is a great all around do all. 
  I recently went camping with about 30 of my friends, and when it was time to get firewood, usually dead limbs and trees, everyone went for the 192.  Having the right saw is nice, keeping the chain sharp in my opinion is more important.  I would take a low hp saw with a sharp chain over a high hp saw with a dull chain.

[weimedog]

My little pumped up Husqvarna 238 is a giant killer. Other than being a little too loud, its perfect for limbing...and its different too.

Next in line out of my pile is the Husqvarna 555. Not a small saw..but its the best all around saw I have ever experienced. Lighter than the 372, and 562 class saws, enough power to do 95 percent of what I do here at the farm. Best bang per buck saw out there. I don't understand why any one would buy anything else new for that $550 to $600 dollar price range...unless its a Jonsered 2260 which is better looking and has the 562 goodies on the small mount thus lighter 555 chassis. (I want one of those 2260's btw  ;D)

Having said that....I had the fortunate (or unfortunate depending on your perspective ) opportunity to experience the Husqvarna 550, Jonsered 2253 series saws. They are the best truely small saws in the 50cc class on the market by far....but the New Husqvarna 543xp is just around the corner...

[ladylake]

 At 12.35# dry a Husky 555 is not a small limbing saw.  Your pumped up 238 sounds good, is that a top handle.  Having run a lot of different saws I'll take my muff modded  CS400 $200+ off Ebay any day, handles great, 13# ready to cut, built good , first pull starting after the first start in the morning, reasonable oem online or at the dealer parts, easy to work on.  Also the best 40cc power band you'll find. Steve

[Digging Fool]

Normally, I take a bigger saw to the woods, but today, I took a little Efco 40cc, and that thing ripped! I mistakenly hit it with 2 airborne pieces of wood.  Never have done that before, but was accidently abusive today.  :D

[Spike60]

My little pumped up Husqvarna 238 is a giant killer. Other than being a little too load, its perfect for limbing...and its different too.

Next in line out of my pile is the Husqvarna 555. Not a small saw..but its the best all around saw I have ever experienced. Lighter than the 372, and 562 class saws, enough power to do 95 percent of what I do here at the farm. Best bang per buck saw out there. I don't understand why any one would buy anything else new for that $550 to $600 dollar price range...unless its a Jonsered 2260 which is better looking and has the 562 goodies on the small mount thus lighter 555 chassis. (I want one of those 2260's btw  ;D)

Having said that....I had the fortunate (or unfortunate depending on your perspective ) opportunity to experience the Husqvarna 550, Jonsered 2253 series saws. They are the best truely small saws in the 50cc class on the market by far.

Always a plug for the 555, eh? 

My most used small saw over the last 3 years or so was a Jonny 2150 with a 2153/346NE top end. Seemed like I always grabbed that saw. Did a lot of firewood and it saw duty in hurricanes Irene and Sandy. Just a great overall chassis. Then the 550/2253 came out. And they are both rated at more horsepower than your 455. (3.7 vs. 3.5) Even the junior 545/2252 are only slightly behind at 3.3 hp. These are just really great small saws. Any one of them will seriously reduce the trigger time of your 455.

I'm not one of those guys who knock the 455's BTW. They are a VERY reliable do most everything saw for most situations. (Not too many will agree with me, but I think it's a better saw for it's intended role than the 55 rancher was.  ) But it is a bit of a compromise. For all of that 8"-10" wood you are cutting, the 455 is too much weight. And they really don't have a lot of power when you get 20" or larger wood. So, at some point after getting your small saw, you'll be thinking that you need to get a larger one.  ;D

Do you need a $500+ small saw? If you're going to use it a lot, then buying the nicer unit makes sense. If it's more of an occasional need, then some of the homeowner saw that guys have suggested will work fine. The Husky 445/450 are also very reliable saws, and about $200 less than their 500 series cousins.

[timeout]

 I bought a 346xp a few years back for about $400.00 brand new. It was an E-Tech with the green gas cap. I used that saw to cut off about 10  acres of mixed wood. I didn't do much limbing. Mainly dropping. I did this while wading  through 2- 3 feet  of snow. That mid size saw was amazing. I dropped some red oak that was 16" at the butt. Lugging that saw was much better than my 266se. I eventually  overheated the saw in the summer. I rebuilt it and still have it. I now also have a 246 that i bought used for $150.00. That is an awesome saw also. I would recommend either of these saws. They are fairly light, but powerful for their size.

[bcaarms]

Jonsered 2253  16" 3/8 .50 ported
Huskey  346 xp 16" 3/8 .50 ported

[thecfarm]

bcaarms,welcome to the forum. Cut firewood for yourself?

[Icehouse]

I use a Husky 242xp as a small saw. 10# pro saw that turns 15,500, with a sharp chisel bit chain it's amazing the amount of wood this little guy digests. Because of the high r.p.m. You don't need to lean on it at all, the weight of the saw is all you need. A sharp chain is a must, as it is on all of these small saws. Dull chains and small saws is just a recipe for an early demise, to much strain and heat. I also have a stihl ms 250 that I use on occasion, really a great little saw not as many r.p.m but great saw.

[deerslayer]

I have a Stihl 018C for light work and it cuts really fast with a sharp chain. It is really narrow kerf and .043 gauge so zips through the wood. It would be great for what you're trying t accomplish. Not sure what the difference is between the 017 and 018 is and I never tried an 017. A sharp chain is paramount to any wood cutting. Find a file, sharpen up the 017 and give it another go.

What I would do to solve a small saw need is pick up a Poulan 2000, Craftsman 2.0, 2.3 or Poulan XXV. These saws are light, reliable and can be picked up anywhere for $50 in good running condition. Non runners go for $5 to $20. A fuel line, carb clean or kit and a bit of TLC will usually get them going. If you need a bar for one, it's cheaper to buy another saw than parts for it.

[John Vander]

I agree with compensation. The ms170 runs a chain with narrow cutters, similar the the 200T. This makes cutting much faster. I use a ms170 for dropping small trees and de-branching. Lightweight and quick.

[ladylake]

A MS170 is light weight but by no means quick, it's ok for up to 3" branches.   Mine sits on the shelf.  Steve

[tolman_paul]

Thanks for the info.

I was looking at some saws today in the Stihl lineup. I got to swing around a MS 201 with the top handle, not cutting just inside. There was also an MS 196 or some number right next to it. The 201 is 35cc with a magnesium chassis/body/frame and the 190-something is 30cc and plastic. I don't know that I need the magnesium, and it was about another 3/4 more expensive.

I guess I am used to the "old fashioned" rear handle saws, that top handle design just doesn't feel right. I'm sure a lot of people have them. What comments do you have to offer on that design? I know they have variations with a rear-handle also, for the 201 its about $70 more, but you can get it.

I'm not real sure that is the right saw though. I'd rather have something light and real maneuverable, then fire up the bigger saw if I need it, than to get something a bit bigger and not run in to needing the bigger saw. That's what is great about options - they are just that. Plus, it spreads out the wear.

I picked up a top handle saw a couple years back because I wanted something compact enough to fit in the small rack in the back of my snowmobile.  Figuring there might be a risk of loosing or destroying it, I ended up getting a used echo cs3000 for a very reasonable price.  Even after shipping to Alaska, a new bar, new primer bulb and a few spare chains I was only out $100.

The saw is extremely light and while the little 30cc engine won't win a hot saw race, it does an admirable job of limbing.  Last winter I was using my snowmobile to pack some cross country ski trails and I took the saw along to clear branches that were at eye height and a tree that got blown down across the trails.  The little saw was more than up to the task and with an all up weight of around 10#'s you can use it one handed.

Kinda dwarfed by my 181 with a 30" bar.

[John Vander]

Here in Japan, tree work means scaling mountains to get to woodlots. All your gear (chainsaw too) has to fit on your back rack as you need to climb steep slopes. The ms170 fits well onto my backrack. I added a set of dogs and the saw zips through small trees. Especially when releasing pole trees that suffered windthrow from typhoons.