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Electric Chain Sharpeners??? Any good???

Started by Shaggy, September 22, 2013, 10:49:55 AM

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Shaggy

I've seen those cheap chain saw electric sharpeners (like harbor freight etc) are they any good??? do they work right or do they destroy a good chain??? your thoughts please...

ladylake

Those really cheap ones around $40 might work but are built real flimsy,  I'd at least get a Oregon knock off for around $100 to $140 or better a $300 to $400 Oregon.   Even the cheap ones won't ruin a chain, just make sure the side of the wheel hits the face of the tooth at the same angle the tooth was.   Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

luvmexfood

I bought a Harbor Freight one a couple of months ago. Used it once and the chain would not cut. Was in a hurry when I sharpened chain. Thursday it rained so I went out and fooled with it somemore. Like Shaggy said they are flimsy.

I brought in a big chuck of maple to make test cuts and had it out on my trailer. The angle guide on it was completely inacurrate. Didn't have anything to measure angles by so I used an old destroyed chain and set the angles according to the marks on top of the chain the best I could. Sharpened a chain and made a test cut. It did pretty good so I marked the angles with a magic marker. Sharpened two more chains and put them on the saw and made test cuts and they did good. Sharpened two more but it was raining too hard so I didn't test them.

Real test will come when I start cutting logs again. Probably Monday if the saw is running halfway decent. Have been having trouble with it and am working on it. Don't know if I would buy another or not. Time will tell on that but for 29$ I figured I would give it a try.
Give me a new saw chain and I can find you a rock in a heartbeat.

beenthere

Quotedo they work right or do they destroy a good chain???

They can work right if the operator knows how to set them up, and yes, they can destroy a good chain (if the operator doesn't set them up right). ;)

I don't think any chain sharpeners can sharpen a chain without a knowledgeable operator.  (or did I say that already ) ;) 

Expect a bit more sloppiness in the HF cheapo's that will require more attention to do a fair job sharpening.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

ladylake

 Really no rocket science in running a grinder, just make sure to get the wheel low enough so the side of the wheel hits the face of the tooth and keep the angles the same as the chain was or close.  The biggest mistake is not getting the wheel low enough and too high rakers.   Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

Shaggy

I've used the Oregon before, just didn't know if the price difference was worth it as I've never owned the "cheap kind" but didn't want to spend $200-300 on one either...

ladylake

 From reports I've heard the Oregon knockoff sharpeners do fine, built good but you might have too smooth off some of the castings.      Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

GAB

I also purchased one of those cheapie HF sharpeners.  I figured if it did 5 chains good it was paid for based on what it costs me to get a chain sharpened.  The trick is to make sure you use the same force or apply the same pressure to the head as the plastic will give more as more force is applied.  Also I use a vernier to make sure my teeth are the same length on both sides.  Different length teeth will not saw right.  Gerald
W-M LT40HDD34, SLR, JD 420, JD 950w/loader and Woods backhoe, V3507 Fransguard winch, Cordwood Saw, 18' flat bed trailer, and other toys.

bandmiller2

In 1976 I bought a chain grinder that is the same as the better Oregon grinder,still using it and its as good as new.As with any tool by something good and take care of it.When grinding chains take light cuts,if you try to hog off too much you will burn the cutters.Hardware store kids are what give grinders a bad reputation. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

Pullinchips

You have to pay attention to what your doing and setup.

MY HF grinder has angles on it?

Make sure you dont take to much tooth, dont go too deep or too shallow. I can get a pretty decent sharpen job, better that I could handfile. And be consistant the body will torq all over the place if you try and "he man" it. sometimes i need to adjust the tooth on each side or it will whack a good bit off one side vs the other.
Resident Forester
US Army Corps of Engineers: Savannah District

Clemson Forestry Grad 2004
MFR Clemson University 2006
Stihl MS 390

Bandmill Bandit

I personally don't like the Shop type grinders. I Have used a cordless dremel and a my trusty hand file for years but most recently bought a timberline sharpener and I really like it. You get a very accurate, sharp chain every time. I wouldn't be with out one and have not used dremel or file since I got it.

  http://www.timberlinesharpener.com/

Skilled Master Sawyer. "Skilled labour don't come cheap. Cheap labour dont come skilled!
2018 F150 FX4, Husqvarna 340, 2 Logright 36 inch cant hooks and a bunch of stuff I built myself

Ward Barnes

I just watched the video on the Timberline Sharpener.  Very Interesting.  I hand sharpen with file and guide now after an "experienced" saw sharpener at the local Stihl dealer burned every tooth on an almost new chain.  He still is the guy to go to for repairs and service, but, I will never take a chain to him again.  God Bless, Ward and Mary.
7 year old Stihl MS 390.  New Stihl trim saw MS 250.  Kubota BX 2200 tractor.  2005 F150 4X4.
Dull chains cause accidents.  Accidents cause shorter life spans.
You don't sharpen a chain when it gets dull.  You sharpen a chain to keep it from getting dull.

Bandmill Bandit

You can over sharpen with this tool and shorten chain life. It takes a bit of getting used to but once you have the chain ground straight and accurate you only need  a turn or 2 of the handle per tooth to tune it up. Also on a new chain if you start doing both sides at the same time you keep it ground exactly the same on both sides. Once you get the hang of it you will love it.

The 2 thumb screws to mount the block to the bar are hard to get tight enough to hold the block real solid. I just got a couple of grade 8 set screws and an allen wrench to get it  tight enough to do a good job. Have never had a problem since I did that.   
Skilled Master Sawyer. "Skilled labour don't come cheap. Cheap labour dont come skilled!
2018 F150 FX4, Husqvarna 340, 2 Logright 36 inch cant hooks and a bunch of stuff I built myself

Ward Barnes

Bandit:  Good tip.  Thanks.

God Bless, Ward and Mary.
7 year old Stihl MS 390.  New Stihl trim saw MS 250.  Kubota BX 2200 tractor.  2005 F150 4X4.
Dull chains cause accidents.  Accidents cause shorter life spans.
You don't sharpen a chain when it gets dull.  You sharpen a chain to keep it from getting dull.

luvmexfood

So I cut some trees I had used the Harbor Freight Sharpener on. One walnut, one maple and two poplars. One of the poplars was 21" eight foot up. Two chains. They cut excellent. Just could not use the factory angle measurement on the front. Got the chain lined up for each side and marked it for 30 deg. for my Stihl chains. The Carlton chains I have say sharpen to 35 deg. So I just took the 30 deg. mark and added 5 deg. Time will tell on the longetivity of the machine.

If all the chains I have sharpened are as good as the ones I have used so far then the machine has paid for itself vs. taking them to a shop. I file my chains but sometimes you have to get the angles set back right. Or at least I do.
Give me a new saw chain and I can find you a rock in a heartbeat.

sharkey

Just be careful with the grinder that you dont burn the cutter.  If you try to take too much off at once or have something out of whack, you can ruin a good chain.

   

Tom L

I have one from NT, spent around a $100 for it 10 yrs ago. makes it very easy to sharpen all of my chains at once.
I have accumulated 10 or so chains for a few size bars. takes a half hour to do them all at once.
I mark the chain at a starting point and sharpen every other tooth at one angle , and do all of the chains in that direction
then move the vise to cut the other angle and do all of the other links in the opposite direction
the chains cut super and come out very balanced and even.

much more efficient than trying to sharpen them all with a file
at least for me it is better.

I use a new chain to set the two angles and run with it

bandmiller2

If a chain grinder is handled properly it will remove less tooth than a file.In 1976 when I bought my grinder I also bought a stihl 031 and only sharpened the chain with a grinder.That chain lasted many years,I would often not even change the adjustment on the grinder to touch up the teeth.More important is to keep the chain out of the dirt when cutting,then it needs a minor touchup. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

thecfarm

I had no idea about a chain lasting longer using a grinder. I'm lucky if a chain will last be 6 months. Nothing a matter with a grinder,but I would have to re learn all over again. Took me a while to learn by hand. And a few chains too.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

John Mc

Assuming equal use (and abuse), I highly doubt the life of a chain is extended in any significant way by using a grinder over a hand file; I'd bet the the skill with which either tool is used is what makes the difference.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

beenthere

Quoteextended in any significant way by using a grinder over a chain

meant "grinder over a hand file" ?? or something else?
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

luvmexfood

After using mine one thing I recommend and may be true with any grinder. Go to Wallyworld and buy a cheap $5 desk lamp and set next to it. I used to have better than 20/20 eyesight but not anymore.
Give me a new saw chain and I can find you a rock in a heartbeat.

bandmiller2

As I mentioned the secret to long chain life is not digging ditches in the dirt and cutting rocks.Its far easier to take a very light cut with a grinder than a file.I do boath and usally take two swipes with a file per cutter.With a file you must use enough pressure for the file to bite and that pulls out a lot of  metal filings. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

John Mc

Quote from: beenthere on September 29, 2013, 10:41:22 PM
Quoteextended in any significant way by using a grinder over a chain

meant "grinder over a hand file" ?? or something else?

Yeah... hand file. Thanks, I fixed it.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

John Mc

Quote from: bandmiller2 on September 30, 2013, 07:45:37 AM
As I mentioned the secret to long chain life is not digging ditches in the dirt and cutting rocks.Its far easier to take a very light cut with a grinder than a file.I do boath and usally take two swipes with a file per cutter.With a file you must use enough pressure for the file to bite and that pulls out a lot of  metal filings. Frank C.

If I'm having to put much pressure on the file, it's probably time to clean the file, or replace it.

I don't doubt that when run by a good operator, a GOOD quality grinder can do a better job than a hand file.  I'm not all that good with a grinder... I've never taken the time to get good at it.  I'm sure I could be if I devoted the time to it. 

I like using a hand file, especially while in the woods.  It's a time to enjoy a bit of silence, take a break and rehydrate or get a snack.  That pause also gives me the opportunity to take stock of myself and how I'm doing.  Sometimes when I'm hard at it, I don't realize how tired or dehydrated I'm getting -- both of which can be dangerous when operating something like a chainsaw.

I suppose if I were doing this for a living, I'd carry multiple sharp chains with me and just swap them out as-needed.  It would be more efficient than stopping to hand sharpen.  I'd also be in better shape to operate a saw all day, rather than suffering from "weekend warrior syndrome", as I do now.  As it is, I just carry one spare chain, in case I hit a rock.  Mainly, I just sharpen what is on my saw, and move on.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

bandmiller2

John, most of the time I use a file, its just so easy and quick. One seldom heard advantage of a grinder is removing the chain from the bar and cleaning the packed sawdust from the bar and saw. Every second or third filing I make it a point to remove the chain and bar to clean everything. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

Bandmill Bandit

I can sharpen the chain on my saw in about the same time it takes swap out the chain or remove to clean using my Timber Line sharpener and I get a prefect sharpen every time.

I have sharpened a lot of chain over the years and I am good enough at it that a lot of my neighbours brought me there saws when they needed sharpening. 4 of them now own timberline sharpeners and the only time I see those saws now is when they come to get  fire wood out of the slab piles and I don't sharpen chain for them any more. The Timberline gives a better edge then the factory edge IMHO. And I find that I sharpen less and spend less time when I do stop to sharpen.
Skilled Master Sawyer. "Skilled labour don't come cheap. Cheap labour dont come skilled!
2018 F150 FX4, Husqvarna 340, 2 Logright 36 inch cant hooks and a bunch of stuff I built myself

Qweaver

I use my 12v sharpener that I bought at Tractor Supply.  It works great and I believe it was less than $20.  Using the correct diameter stone is the main thing.
So Many Toys...So Little Time  WM LT28 , 15 trailers, Case 450 Dozer, John Deere 110 TLB, Peterson WPF 10",  AIM Grapple, Kubota 2501 :D

tolman_paul

The inexpensive swing arm grinders are really no different than a file.  You can produce a wonderfully sharp chain the cuts straight, fast and makes nice chips, or you can ruin the chain and end up with something that binds in the cut and makes more dust than chips.

I've been very pleased with the results I get from my no name clone grinder.  It did take me messing up an old chain that was pretty much at end of life to learn the ins and outs.  The main key is to take light cuts.  If the chain isn't terribly dull, one light pass is all you need anyhow.  If however the chain has been driven into the dirt, or has had several itterations of hand filing with the teeth in not quite all the same length or angles, it'll take a few passes to get everything back in order.

The light cuts don't burn the teeth of the chain and don't strain the light construction of the grinders.  Remember, it's not a chop saw.

bedway

Many people misinterpret a chain to be dull because its not cutting fast or throwing small chips and sawdust. All to often the chain has been sharpened a few times and the rakers have never been touched up. The raker determines the bite a tooth can take. You can have razor sharp teeth but if the rakers arent in the ball park the teeth wont cut.

Red Good

I saw the HF one on sale Friday and didn't think to check it out while there , had a log arch on my mind . lol

Spent a lot of time sitting at a bench sharpening saw chain with an Oregon setup when we were a Pioneer dealer , not really interested any more . My local guy does a great job and treats me really good so I support him .  When I bought my saw I got 3 extra chains so never stuck , and they turn them around in a day . If I come up short I have a set of files and can still do it like that . Try hard to not stick the tip in the dirt .
Stihl 211C saw
Massey 135 deisel tractor with a front loader
Can Am 800 max quad
2001 Chev S10 pick me up
Home made log arch

Philbert

It's all a matter of how much you take off each time. Easier to do touch-up sharpening in the field with a file. In the shop you can use a light touch with a grinder.

Philbert

qbilder

I use my electric sharpener to reshape the teeth & get them to consistent size again. For sharpening, I use a file. 
God bless our troops

mikeboggess

Quote from: Shaggy on September 22, 2013, 10:49:55 AM
I've seen those cheap chain saw electric sharpeners (like harbor freight etc) are they any good??? do they work right or do they destroy a good chain??? your thoughts please...
Bought a cheapie from NrthnTl and it works fine. Only suggestion I have is order another drive belt for it at the time of purchase, I use mine a lot and the belt broke in less than a year. NrthrnTl dismantled one of their new sharpeners to get me going until my replacement belt(s) come in. Yes I ordered more than one. Sharpening chains requires some education and practice no matter what tool you use, electric, hand file, etc. You can ruin a chain no matter what you use.  I have paid to have chains sharpened with a modicum of success. Watch some videos. Going into my second year with this cheapie and I must say that I have saved much time and money.
thebadriverboys

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