Sawing 1x4's

South02 · November 14, 2018, 12:08:06 PM

I'm about to saw about 3 SYP logs for a friend who wants all the 1x4's I can get out them. The logs are about 14-15" on the small end. The logs have been down awhile and I will probably have to slab them a little heavy. I'm thinking I'll end up with a 9-10" cant. What would be the best way to saw these for the straightest 1x4's? I've included 2 examples. Which one would be the best, or is there a better way? I have been sawing about 3 years now ( on the weekends and off days) with the Woodland Mills HM126 and a member of the Forestry Forum for about 3 years. I have learned a lot from this forum and learn something new everyday!

maple flats · November 14, 2018, 12:18:14 PM

I would think that generally example 1 will get more good 1x4's but that depends on the part that would be at the outside corners if you tried to cut just 1 off the top and bottom and make the rest a cant, then saw it. If you would still get all good boards example would work fine, if in doubt, go with 1.

Lawg Dawg · November 14, 2018, 12:18:33 PM

I would go with example #1...and be turning the cant every couple boards to relieve tension! Good luck!

Magicman · November 14, 2018, 01:05:42 PM

Absolutely #1 and using the sawing sequence that LD described above.

Sixacresand · November 14, 2018, 01:18:00 PM

I prefer example #1. If it is a long log, over 10', I would make the cant 5 inches wide, cut 1x5's, then edge to 4" to take out any bends due to stress Extra work and there is loss, but I hate to stack bent boards. Just me.

GeneWengert-WoodDoc · November 14, 2018, 03:06:11 PM

The key here is that these are SYP logs. This species has a juvenile core of about 15 rings that loves to shrink lengthwise and also loves to twist. So, any 1x4 that has this wood will likely not be straight after drying.

The big issue is if the rings, when looking at the end of the piece, are off center, edge to edge, then side-bend will be likely on perhaps 2/3 of the pieces. That is, for the straightest lumber the sawing pattern must be so that the ring pattern on the one edge is a mirror image of the pattern on the other edge, when the grain is viewed from the end of the piece of lumber.

We do know that commercial high temperature drying (230 F) does help keep lumber flat and straight, but this is not practical drying for smaller mills.

moodnacreek · November 14, 2018, 07:07:30 PM

If I had to cut 1x4 or 2x4 from pine logs I would saw 1x off 2 sides down to 81/4" , split that and stack 2 or 3 on the carriage and saw the 1x4s. These center cants make the better quality 4" boards.