homebrew mill chain

[redpowerd]

man, lemmie cut one up, i just got a THREE HOARSE ;Dtable saw, plus some kinda butchers chainsaw, all for thirty at some auction in the woods here


well, leave me to my own devices and i have a chainsaw bar hooked to a fairly srturdy table, WITH THREE HORSES!

man,   can it rip wood


question,
how do i shave my chain so it rips like butter?





kevin? ;)

[Kevin]

Be careful you don't throw a chain if there isn't a guard between you and the bar.



I would opt for a full skip ripping chain, Stihl is ok if you don't mind the rough finish on the lumber otherwise choose one with 15o or less top plate.

[oldsaw-addict]

If theres no guard on the thing, you could add a little bar guard tip on the nose for that exact reason. Homelite used them in the 80s and Echo uses them now on the little saws take a look. you might like the idea.

[Rocky_J]

ummmm,
Not trying to drag this off topic or anything, but the tip guard that comes on the Echo bar tips is NOT designed to prevent the chain from being thrown. It is designed to prevent homeowners from cutting with the tip and inducing kickback.

Red, I can't help you with your project, good luck with it.  ;)

[oldsaw-addict]

I was just thinking something like that might work because there would be no unneeded obstructions on the sides of the bar to halt production. It was just a thought, that you could think up something like that nose guard piece just perhaps a little creative thinking getting involved and you would be a little bit less likely to have a thrown chain shave some facial features off. BTW, is that thing gas or electric? just out of curiosity.

[redpowerd]

i stay well out of its path, its frightening.
picture emergency room with freshly sharpend chain hanging off my face.

id like to take a grinder to a chain and hack my chain up for milling, hence the subject "homebrew" :D

'tis 'lectric

[tawilson]

Somebody somewhere makes a chainsaw attachment for a skil saw. Can't seem to find it right now, but same principle so you might be able to steal some ideas. I'll try to find it. I was sure I bookmarked it.

[Kevin]

Would that be the beam cutter?



http://www.praziusa.com/beamcutter.html

[tawilson]

That's the one. That guard is just about what you were suggesting for the table saw.

[Kevin]

The problem is you'll be feeding from the other side with the chain saw.

[redpowerd]

i grab a full comp chain and remove the top plate off every other set, grind the cutters flat, perpendicular to the bar, then shave a ten degree angle on the cutters?
right?
or am i attempting to destroy a perfectly 'good' rocked out chain?

its in the vice, ready to go.....
i have some cedar posts, ready to be notched for the legs on my bar.

[Kevin]

The only problem with that is keeping the cutters cool during the grinding process.
If you take the hardness out it will never stay sharp.

[redpowerd]

hacksaw? ???

this is begining to sound fun :-/

[Kevin]

For your first attempt I would buy a loop of factory full skip ripping chain then if you modify your own chain you'll not only have something to compare it to but you'll have something to switch back to.  :D

[redpowerd]

so im going to have to make a purchase, eh?
if you havent noticed, im cheap.

sound advice, kevin. thanks!
they are just so DanG expensive!

[Oregon_Rob]

Red,
I had real good luck ripping WRC with LG filed at 10°. I didn't take off any side plates. Ceader is soft, so i don't know if you will gain a lot with removing the top plates.

[redpowerd]

after im done with the cedar, i plan on ripping some hard maple ;D

[oldsaw-addict]

that guard on the little beam cutter or whatever its called is a great idea, just add a piece on it on the top to cover the nose of the bar, a curved steel piece would do well there.