028AV HIGH REV

[ENTS]

Saw starts just fine, idles just fine, WOT  runs for a few seconds and slowly dies out.  Changed fuel line and filter and cleaned air filter.  Ran it w/o air filter, no change.  Cracked the fuel cap while running, no change.  It's fresh mix (premium w/ultra).  Had previously changed the tank vent.  Current one is clear with 2 check valves in it.  There is fuel in the tube??????  Is this normal?

I'm thinking the carb. has eaten a bunch of crap and needs to be rebuilt.  What do you all think?  (Please don't tell me coil).

Another ques. on this saw, it's badged 028AV  SUPER  Electronic Quick Stop

What's the Electronic Quick Stop?
What makes this a "SUPER" vs. a plain jane 028?
Why can't I find any 028 on my STIHL floppy?

Later and thanks,

[Kevin]

Do you still have a spark when it quits?

[ENTS]

By the sound of it, yes, there still is spark.  Plus, if I blip it a few times while it is dying, I can get it to idle again.  I'll put my spark tester on it tomorrow and see for sure. 

[Al_Smith]

 What's the Electronic Quick Stop?
What makes this a "SUPER" vs. a plain jane 028?
Why can't I find any 028 on my STIHL floppy?

Later and thanks,

Electronic ignition ,chain brake .

Super could be taken to be a term of endearment .Like my 028 is just a super saw .

More truthfully though the 028 had a 44 MM bore where as the super was 46 MM .47 cc and 51.5 cc  respectfully .
I have no idea why an 028 is not on your floppy .It's on my micro fitche,dealers manual and CD rom . Maybe they like me better than you . :D

[ENTS]

OOPS, I meant CD not floppy.  Heck, I haven't seen a floppy drive in years.

Thanks for the info.

Later,

[joe_indi]

It has  the symptoms of either a damaged or loose impulse hose or a blocked strainer in the carburetor.

Joe

[ENTS]

I wouldn't have thought impulse line.  When I bought the fuel line I also got an impluse line, just didn't put it on.  Anyway, carb comes off today.  Since the fleece is just about worn off that air cleaner I would think this saw is sucking a lot of crud.  So, yep, I believe you may be right about a dirty carb.  We'll see today. 

Later,

[chainsawr]

I agree, 

Carb cleaning, gasket kit, and adjustment.

Stihl really confused a lot of people by leaving the all important comma out of that decal.  Electronic, QuickStop.

[ENTS]

Crud, crud, crud, every where.  Screen was really blocked, almost up to the top of the carb. block.  No numbers on this carb., just that it's a Walbro.  Numbers on the inside of the inlet cap "4-6 21-316.  I doubt these  are the i.d. for this carb. (or is it?).  Anyone have an idea what carb. kit I need?


Later,

[Al_Smith]

It should have either a Tillotson HU or a Walbro WT .It will be listed on the carb some place after you get the crud cleaned off .

Now if that air filter is messed up don't fool with it get a new one .I've seen more saws die because of a faulty filter than I ever have from running lean . The numbers are on the filter halfs .Some times Baileys have after market filters some times not . If not it's about a 20 dollar item  from a dealer .

[ENTS]

Another thing that has poped it's ugly head up (as I clean yrs. of neglect off this thing) is the fact it's oiling like there is no tomorrow (usually, it's the other way around).  Tried to get the plastic cover off the clutch (yes, I removed the screws) but it's resisting.  Any trick to get that cover off so as to see the oil pump?

As far as the carb. goes, got a message to chainsawr to see if he's got the carb. kit.  His site showed a picture where to look for the model num.  It's a WT 16a. 

Later,

[Jim Spencer]

I would clean the crud and reassemble and try it out.
Just because you clean the carb does not mean you have to rebuild it.
jmo

[ENTS]

Jim,

I sorta agree with you but since it's been on that saw from the beginning and obviously abused I figured I'd tear it down and put it in the ultrasonic for an hour.  Should be good to go after that for some time.  Unless of course it's abused again.

Later,

[ENTS]

Let's see -- got the oil pump off, cleaned it up, nothing wrong with it.  Once saw was back together it still pumped way too much oil.  The only thing I can think of is that the hose and/or pick up are cracked or have a hole in it.  No restriction and oil flows really well.  Since it's not my saw, I left it.  If the owner wants, I'll check it.

Carb -- cleaned it up, rebuild kit, checked pressure and it's leaking down ever so slightly.  Didn't replace the needle valve.  Installed as is and set the jets.  Runs pretty good.  Figured I'd run a few tanks thru it and retest the pressure on it to see if the needle vavle reseated.

I set the high rpm at 12500.  Anyone know what it should be?

Later,

[ENTS]

...
I set the high rpm at 12500.  Anyone know what it should be?

Later,

I found a shop man. that said 12K is highest recomended.  The 12.5k I set this at shouldn't hurt.  Especially since I still had room to bump it higher.  Sounded good at 12.5k and since it's an older saw it'll stay there.


Later,