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buying new saws

Started by sawbob011, April 17, 2010, 12:18:31 AM

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sawbob011

So I have been looking at buying another saw recently. I will probably buy from a local pawn shop to save money but I want to know what kind of things I should look for when buying a saw. All places I look will let me start the saw and see that it runs. One place will let me cut if  I have a log and the chain is sharp enough (Normaly they arent though unless I want to do it myself). What other things might I want to look for when looking at a used saw in a pawn shop.
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chucker

lol ?? look for a lot of things to be wrong and go wrong!! "ITS NOT IN THE PAWN SHOP FOR NO REASON"!! not to say there is a 1/100 it could be a hardship pawn.... good luck
respect nature ! and she will produce for you !!  jonsered 625 670  2159 2171/28"  efco 147 husky 390xp/28" .375... 455r/auto tune 18" .58 gauge

Rocky_J

I avoid buying from pawn shops on principle. Many years ago I was going to buy a blower from a pawn shop, but the seller backed out when I wanted him to put the serial number on the receipt. I would rather buy new or from a private seller than wonder if I'm possessing stolen merchandise.

chainsawr

I have to agree about pawn shops.  The more people buy from there, the more the pawn places will pay for saws, and the more saws will get stolen.  Unless you know the person who owns the pawn shop as an undeniable straight shooter who would not buy stolen items. 

I had a guy ask me straight up on the phone yesterday if I would buy his 5, like new stolen huskies.  I told him we take stolen chainsaws very seriously, and I was giving his number from the caller ID to the Police as soon as I hung up.

If you want something used, get it on craigslist or from a shop, and get a recipt.  Lots of times individuals selling a chainsaw even have the original paperwork.  That is pretty good proof that it isn't stolen.
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Al_Smith

 As a general rule there is no such thing as a "good deal " on anything from a pawn shop .

sawbob011

If I buy from a pawn shop or not Id still like to know what to look for if buying a used saw, weather its from a pawn shop, craigs list, garage sell, or out of the paper. What are some things I should check out on the saw to make sure it is really worth the price asked for or not.

I can appreatiate the concern about buying from pawn shops due to chance it could be stolen. My work in private security has led me to pawn shops a number of times in attempt to recover stolen merchandise. This is why I will not buy if I can not get a serial number for the item and if there is any doubt I see if the police can search to see if that item is reported stolen. Brands and tags from companies are another give away. Most companies dont pawn there equipment and they will remover personal identifiers too.

It is my expiriance that buying used weather from a pawn shop or craigs list or any other sources you could be looking at stolen merchandise. Example: the company I worked for had a number of weed whips, edgers, trimmers, saws, blowers, and other equipment stolen from there grounds wearhouse. 2/3 was sold to unsuspecting buyers on craigs list and ebay. About half the rest was pawned. We caught him when an employee reccognized a number of items at a garage sale as equipment from his work truck. What Im saying here is be cautious wherever you might be buying used.
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jteneyck

Buying used can be a great deal if you know what you're looking at and/or you know the person selling.  The only way to know for sure if the saw is any good is to run it and cut with it.  If I were buying it w/o running/cutting with it, then the price would have to be a lot lower.  In either case, take the covers off and have a good look at everything.  If the engine cooling fins are caked with crud, then it wasn't cared for very well.  Same thing if the outside of the carb is packed with crud.  Look for cracks in the crankcase, cracked, broken, or missing parts.  Pull the chain around the bar by hand.  It should move nice and smoothly.  If you it pulls really hard in some spots and easily in others then something in the clutch might be bent/warped.  Take the muffler off if you can and look at the piston, rings, and cylinder.  If anything is scored, walk away.  Probably more things but I can't think of them at the moment.  Good luck.

SwampDonkey

I'd never pay more than $200 for a used brush saw, maybe as much as $350. I had a couple fellows working for me that bought used and paid $600 and the saws were toast in less than a month. The saw guy and you and me don't know how that saw was used and abused unless you look at different things like flywheel, bearings, the jug, switches, cable and even the pull cord. ;D

I wanted a spare used top halve to the tower of my brush saw and as soon as the shop started looking up price on the Sthil's parts look-up I dropped that idea, especially when I discovered a hair line crack in the casing. Anyone that thinks I'm paying brand new for used is dreaming. ;)
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chainsawr

Invest $20 in a compression gauge and a couple of good screnches.  Even if they will let you run it, do these tests before you waste time gassing up.  Look for something with great compression, like 150 or better (lots of saws will run ok down into the 120s, but you'd rather not have to do work on a new purchase right off), ground the plug on the cylinder while checking for spark.  Do a visual check of the sprocket and bottom of the saw to get an idea about how much it has been used, and look it over for broken components.  That is about the best you can do. 
www.chainsawr.com

Over 50,000 parts in stock.

Selling excellent Dolmar chainsaws and power equipment.

High volume Oregon bar and chain dealer.

timber tramp

  As has been stated, buying from pawn shops probably is'nt the best deal. I buy saws off of craigslist occasionally, more often at garage sales or used from a saw shop. There's alot of good advice here on what to look for and watch out for when buying used.                :) TT
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sawbob011

thanks for all the advice. I think there might be something warped on my 026 because it does stick a little when I pull the chain. I never thought about it much until that was mentioned.
a couple questions. How do you check compression. like, if I got a gauge how do you use it. Also what is the compression. I would assume it has something to do with the fule combustion and movement of the piston but thats just a guess.
Also how do you check for spark.
Whats been said so far has really opened my eyes. Many of these things I would have never thought of like the pull coard. Thank you all for the imput so far.
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chainsawr

Compression reads how much combustion pressure the motor will hold.  Low compression means that it is leaking down past the piston and rings. 

To test it you have to access the spark plug, take the plug out, thread the compression gauge in its place, and pull the saw over until you achieve a maximum reading.

It measures nothing to do with fuel or anything else.  Simply a pressure guage.

To check spark: remove the plug from the head, install it in the end of the spark plug wire, ground the plug on something, and pull the motor over.
www.chainsawr.com

Over 50,000 parts in stock.

Selling excellent Dolmar chainsaws and power equipment.

High volume Oregon bar and chain dealer.

madhatte

No love for pawnshop finds?  Hrmm. 

In my experience, if you go into a purchase EXPECTING to put some time/money into repairs & maintenance, pawnshops can be a good source for the beginning of a project.  Often they mark prices down for cosmetic reasons, or their "blue book" says that a saw is worth "x" and it's worth way more to me.  Pawn shops often mark up big names to like-new prices, and mark down very good machinery just to move it. 

Pawnshops are a mixed bag, and if you go in there expecting to pick up a mint 044 for a song, you'll be disappointed.  However, if you hit the same three or four shops every week or two, you'll be surprised how often something really neat shows up.  It's best to be prepared to buy NOW, because it'll be gone later.  If a shop owner won't budge on a price and the thing sits there a month or more, it's likely he's planning on selling it via eBay.  Don't bother dickering on those ones.  Dicker on everything else.   

ely

we just bought a new saw yesterday for my work. we lost our old saw which was a 036. very fine saw imo. had to replace it with a 362 stihl. have not ran it yet so cant say yeah or nay. came with a 20 inch bar.

Al_Smith

Quote from: sawbob011 on April 19, 2010, 09:11:59 PM
thanks for all the advice. I think there might be something warped on my 026 because it does stick a little when I pull the chain. I never thought about it much until that was mentioned.

 
It could be some thing as simple as a bent drive link on the chain .

A simple test for compression is to pick the saw up by the pull cord .If the cord unreels the engine has low compression . Spark is easy enough ,squirt a littls mix in the carb and give it a tug .If after a few pulls it doesn't fire chances are the spark is funky .

maple flats

If you have to ask what compression is you should not be buying from a pawn shop. You should go to a reputable dealer, even for used, who will stand behind it. You should have a better basic knowledge to buy from a pawn shop or even a garage sale. Educate yourself first. You stand to lose too much if you need to ask these questions. You would most likely buy something that was worthless or at best needed too much work to make it right for it to be a bargain.
I have taken saws I've used hard but cared for properly in to the shop for repair just to find out it has major problems. And I work with my saws a lot. To buy used is very tough and only for those who know saws inside and out or those who buy cheap and can afford to throw some bad buys away or in the parts bin without getting bent out of shape.
logging small time for years but just learning how,  2012 36 HP Mahindra tractor, 3point log arch, 8000# class excavator, lifts 2500# and sets logs on mill precisely where needed, Woodland Mills HM130Max , maple syrup a hobby that consumes my time. looking to learn blacksmithing.

Al_Smith

Now I'm not trying to sound like a know it all but if you don't know anything about used saws ,don't buy one .

A few of us can take junk saws and make hot runners out of them .Others would have a hard time changing a pull rope .

The best thing to do about a used saw if unknowledgable is to take someone with you that is------if you can find one .

sawbob011

Quote from: maple flats on April 25, 2010, 01:09:39 PM
If you have to ask what compression is you should not be buying from a pawn shop. You should go to a reputable dealer, even for used, who will stand behind it. You should have a better basic knowledge to buy from a pawn shop or even a garage sale. Educate yourself first. You stand to lose too much if you need to ask these questions. You would most likely buy something that was worthless or at best needed too much work to make it right for it to be a bargain.
I have taken saws I've used hard but cared for properly in to the shop for repair just to find out it has major problems. And I work with my saws a lot. To buy used is very tough and only for those who know saws inside and out or those who buy cheap and can afford to throw some bad buys away or in the parts bin without getting bent out of shape.

As you said I need to educate myself and thats what Im doing. Its why I asked,And now I know and have done further research and am learning more.  As with any used item bought its always a risk and I do seek to educate myself enough about what im buying to lesson the chance that I make a bad investment, but, as I would advise anyone buying used, I expect that despite all knowlage and expiriance there is always the chance that you will still buy a P.O.C. its just the chance you take. Really, you shouldnt buy used if your not prepared for a bad buy, which I am.

The 441 I looked at needed a new air filter and had low compression. It looked like the previous owner had made some carb adjustments and ended up breaking the H adjustment. it doesnt turn at all. itll rev but dies after a few seconds. The shop owner took$200 off bringing it to $400 but I felt it still wasnt worth it. Thankyou for all your advice, otherwise I might have forked out $600 for this saw.
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sawbob011

reading back my last post might have been a bit snappy. I apologize if it seems so, no offence ment, I was in a bit of a poor mood when I posted this morning.
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SwampDonkey

If you ever feel the need to edit a post there is a modify button in the top right of the post or an edit button to the right of the post. ;D
"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

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