cut 3 timbers w Alaskan yesterday

[steelwheelfarm]

It went ok (088 w/ Alaskan), but I wonder if there is any advice for rookies trying to 6"x6" timbers from 12"x12' pines.  We had a bit of trouble on the second cut to be square 90 to the first, and therefore cut a diamond shaped timber.  We have a 2x8x12', with 2x4 rails as a box we strapped on to the top of the log for the mill to run on.  When we turned it for the second cut its hard to ensure a 90 degree edge.  Any tricks?  

[Brucer]

I use guide similar to yours, but it's a 2x12 with a couple of 1-1/2" angle iron rails.

If you're getting a satisfactory opening cut with your "box" right now, just use this method to make your second cut at 90 degrees. If it's taking a long time to get that first cut set up, try using this method for both cuts.

Make up several pairs of "end boards" that just fit inside the iron rails (2 x 4's in your case), with several 3/8" holes drilled through them. Mine are cut from 2 x and each pair is a different height -- 4", 6", 8", 10".

FIRST CUT

Size up your log and decide where you want the opening cut to be. Mark a horizontal line across the butt end at the centre of the log, using a level. Then mark a parallel line where the opening cut will start and then bolt one of the smaller end boards just above the cut line. Use 3/8" x 3" lag screws. Drive them in about half an inch with a hammer, then screw them down using a 9/16" socket in a brace.

Measure the from the top of the end board down to your centre line. Go around to the small end, mark the centre of the log using the level again, and then mark the cut line where the saw will exit. Bolt on a second end board so it's top is exactly the same height above the centre line as the first end board. Put in one bolt to start with, tighten it up just a little, then sight along the top of the endboard to the other endboard and get the two tops exactly parallel. Put in a second lag bolt to secure it.

Sometimes there isn't enough "meat" on the top end to bolt the end board above the cut line. In that case  use your largest end board and set it across the cut line, making sure there are no lag bolts anywhere close to the cut line. With two boards bolted to the ends, set your guide board on top of them, measure from the top of the board to your cut line, allow for the kerf, and set the height of your mill. Then saw your way through the log.

Have a few small kerf wedges on hand,  just a tad thicker than your saw kerf. Push these into the kerf on both sides very 4 to 6 feet as you saw. This keeps the slab from driving the chain into your finished surface as it travels along the back of the bar. Be sure the chain is stopped before you push in a kerf wedge -- especially if you've got a helper doing it for you. Paint the wedges a bright colour or you'll lose 'em in the sawdust for sure.

At the end of the log, just before you cut through, push in a couple of kerf wedges just behind the saw and then finish your cut. Go slow if you had to put the end board across the cut line -- you don't want to trash it completely. Remove your guide plank, unbolt the end boards, dispose of the slab, and roll your log 90 degrees.

SECOND CUT

Repeat the whole process, but instead of using a level to mark your centre line and cut line, use a carpenter's square to get the lines at an exact right angle to the first face. Take your time. Then when you're bolting down your first end block, use the level again to make sure the top is at exactly 90 degrees to the first face. Other than that the whole process is the same.

The procedure may sound complicated, but when you've got your tools and accessories together, it goes pretty quick. The results are worth it. I've got several thousand board feet under my belt using this method, and my timbers are always square. Using kerf wedges (and a few other tricks) I get a surface finish that's better than anything I've seen from a band mill.

If you can track down a copy, get hold of Will Malloff's "Chainsaw Lumbermaking", published in 1982 by Taunton Press. That's where I learned about this system, plus a great many other tips. There's plenty of great photos that spell out the whole process in detail. The book's out of print, but you can usually find a used copy on Amazon (for too many $). Also check your library to see if they have a copy.

Bruce