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Husky L65

Started by Robertmac, March 09, 2018, 02:25:49 PM

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Robertmac

Hi all, I'm new here and will discover the site as I go along. I looked for a post on my problem but no luck.
I have taken a L65 Husky out of storage, 25 years ago when I last used her and I started her up with fresh mix after having it turning a few times without the sparkplug so get it all lubed up inside.

No problem, it started up on third pull and I left it just to idle for a good while. Got it running no problem, chain sharp and off I went.

I almost got through an entire tank of fuel, carb was running perfectly, rev's and power on tap and cutting like new.

About 15 mins in it started to suddenly die on revs, at first I thought, points had shut, but I know I last fitted them so this was not a problem, removed the flywheel, and points are perfect.
Then I thought i'll remove and rebuild the carb as the gaskets have sat 25 years dry, as an air leak or lack of fuel could cause the problem.

Rebuilt carb, but it was perfect, as were all filters and diaphrams, but have spare carb kits from back then.

All I can think of is maybe the condenser has started to break down, giving the impression it is being starved of fuel, when in fact the electrical side is probably causing my troubles.

The problem is now consistent, on any rev's.  As if it was only firing on say every fourth stroke, when she is a two-stroke, so loss of power and a funny sort of constant spitting sound.

I notice a contactless ignition module that is made for this saw, as I cannot find a new condenser, so will this hopefully cure my problem, or just steer me towards another problem?




Jack S

You didn't mention if you checked the gas line or not. might wanta check it

mike_belben

Look at piston through muffler port for scoring first, verify compression second.  Ensure fuel tank is venting and lines arent gellied.   I have had fuel pickup filters clog without being visible.  
Praise The Lord

Robertmac

Quote from: Jack S on March 09, 2018, 02:52:09 PM
You didn't mention if you checked the gas line or not. might wanta check it
Petrol lines are all fine, I even fitted a new fuel pipe from tank to carb while I was at it and breather pipe is not clogged and I also emptied and flushed the saw before I put it in storage.

Robertmac

Quote from: mike_belben on March 09, 2018, 03:12:58 PM
Look at piston through muffler port for scoring first, verify compression second.  Ensure fuel tank is venting and lines arent gellied.   I have had fuel pickup filters clog without being visible.  
I do not know compression reading for this saw, but if you do it would help me 100% or if anyone else reading this knows the compression level of these saws.  I also have extreme compression, from the day I stored it to present day when I restarted it.  It will  take some force to pull this chainsaw on compression so I do not suspect broken rings, or stuck rings.
There is no scoring on the barrel.
How do I check the condenser please?

sawguy21

I have one, they are a regular beast to start without a compression release. You say you were almost through a tank of fuel before it started to act up.It does not sound like an ignition problem. I suspect you have picked up some mung from the bottom of the tank, replace the in tank filter again, they are cheap, and thoroughly clean the carburetor using an ultrasonic cleaner if available.
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

mike_belben

If its got a good solid pump-pump to the rope then i wouldnt even worry.  Ive had saws run okay that barely offered any resistance. 
Praise The Lord

Robertmac

Quote from: sawguy21 on March 09, 2018, 10:09:22 PM
I have one, they are a regular beast to start without a compression release. You say you were almost through a tank of fuel before it started to act up.It does not sound like an ignition problem. I suspect you have picked up some mung from the bottom of the tank, replace the in tank filter again, they are cheap, and thoroughly clean the carburetor using an ultrasonic cleaner if available.
To pull the chord on these beasts is to know you have a powerful saw when you feel the compression compared to present day saws. A child up to the age of 14 will struggle to pull this beast of a starter as you need a hell of a strong consistent pull to get her to turn over.  It even fires up before you have finished the pull.
Thinking back I also remember it started with me in a tree trunk on full load and power when she suddenly started to spit at half throttle and give me no more.  I could remove it, shake it while revving it and sometimes it would give full throttle.  Then I thought maybe the H screw had moved, so checked and re-set to no avail, as it had not moved. This is why I started to think this could be electronic break-down like the condenser in cars with points as this is the exact same problem the car gives, leading mechanics to think the carb is faulty.
It was only at first happening under full load, but now even with the saw on the ground and not under power she will spit and only reach half power and die if you touch a tree, it will spit and jump like a saw being starved of fuel.
I had a look around on the net for ultra-sonic systems and found a unit at $80 to my door, then some fluid, or even water can actually work under ultrasonic waves.
I like the idea and will follow up on it soon, but at present I have only one set left of the carb re-build kit, and knowing how old this saw is I suspect I will never find any more easily. Points and condenser are now obsolete, hence a new unit is available to replace these.
It made me immediately think of fuel starvation when it started happening, as in it will idle and tick over perfectly, and will go up the revs, say this saw goes up to 7k RPM, (Just a pure guess for comparison purposes only at this stage), it will let me take her up to 3-4K RPM before it starts holding back, as if it is screaming at me for more fuel.
You also know when the carb L and H are being set-up, as in I can tune them to ear and cutting power, then set the mix ratios for lean or rich as opposed to revving beautifully, but dieing when you hit any resistance with the bar and chain, or the saw is running to hot or to lean etc. as the carb is not properly adjusted for fuel mix and performance.
What you say and describe about gunk in the carb sounds the best possible cause for my troubles.
Only electrical or carburation are the cause, so I'll go down the route of buying a spare saw or carb on ebay that runs and swap out the carb and take it from there.  While I do this I will also swap out the points for the newer contactless electronic ignition system specifically made for this very saw.
The parts for these saws are hard to find, but a complete one for spares is a great option and I can sell on the spares to recover the initial cost of me buying it.
The ultra-sonic cleaner will also come into play my end and I can use it for various other items I have, including my other chainsaws if they ever start to gel up.

Robertmac

I noticed on ebay in the UK a condenser/capacitor for £6 something, and me believing I would struggle to ever find one for such an old saw.
Just as I uploaded the last post.
Condenser, Capacitor, Husqvarna 65, 65L, L65, 77, 77L, L77, 501 43 63-01, 1-059, which is perfect for me.
Let me be lucky again and find a carb.

mike_belben

This saw is way too old for my experience, but check the ignition rotor shaft for play.  Any looseness will make the point gap go from big to small and burn breaker points.  As will a bad condensor.

Praise The Lord

LeeB

Fuel vent possibly? 
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

Jack S

Now your problem sounds more like the high speed orifice is plugged or restricted. most likely where it exits into the venturi.   did you remove the welch plugs and blow out the the orifices? I feel a lot of carburetors are junked because of this problem. I hardly ever see this discussed. I have had this issue several times over the years on my own equipment. Think about this. really what can wear out in a carb other than gaskets seals and diaphragms.  Those discharge holes are really small real near the butterfly valve. 

BradMarks

Just curious reading this, seems a lot of work for an old saw. Does the L stand for lightweight ??? as I remember the 65 being a heavy, low rev but powerful, vibrating son of a gun. Always picked up the 61 first.

HolmenTree

Quote from: Jack S on March 10, 2018, 12:34:07 PM
Now your problem sounds more like the high speed orifice is plugged or restricted. most likely where it exits into the venturi.   did you remove the welch plugs and blow out the the orifices? I feel a lot of carburetors are junked because of this problem. I hardly ever see this discussed. I have had this issue several times over the years on my own equipment. Think about this. really what can wear out in a carb other than gaskets seals and diaphragms.  Those discharge holes are really small real near the butterfly valve.
Yes times have changed.
Over 40 years ago in the logging camps I lived and worked out of we had a company store that basically had enough parts to build a complete Jonsereds or Husqvarna chainsaw.
After 6 months working a brand new Jonsereds us fallers would after supper change the points and condensor, rebuild the carb with a complete carb kit and have the saw ready to go for the next day.
And still had enough time to play a couple games of pool, late coffee with dessert and watch the late news before going to bed.
Only time we went to the saw dealer was to see what was new on the market.
1979 I remember when the Jonsereds 910E came out . Very impressive looking lightweight 90cc saw. Told him to charge it to the company store....then there was the 920, 630.... ;D
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

bushmechanic

Robertmac you said that the saw was in storage for years, is there any chance that the crankshaft oil seals are dry rotted? I think it would be a good idea check to see if you might have an air leak before you waste too money in it. Just my two cents ;)   

Robertmac

did you remove the welch plugs and blow out the the orifices?

Hi there, thanks for this advice and well said for others to remember also.  I removed all caps and screens and was able to blow through all little holes with no blockages.

I am also about 99% sure this is only a carb problem.

Robertmac

Quote from: BradMarks on March 10, 2018, 12:41:33 PM
Just curious reading this, seems a lot of work for an old saw. Does the L stand for lightweight ??? as I remember the 65 being a heavy, low rev but powerful, vibrating son of a gun. Always picked up the 61 first.
I am even too young to have used these saws legally. I'm only in my 50's this end.  We used them as stand-byes and for firewood cutting as they could chew through any tree trunk effortlessly.  Laws prevented us from using any chainsaw on clear-fell with-out a chain-break even when I was a wood-cutter. My saws back then were the XP ranges, 266 and 268, and little 50cc ones for light work or snedding out, plus a few others.
I refuse to swear in here by saying a word I refuse to acknowledge as a chainsaw beginning with the letter S(tihl) :embarassed:(Each to there own and no malice meant, just forestry joking)
The 61 was easier to man-handle with-out a doubt as simply it is smaller and lighter.  Again too old and outdated even back then.
The forestry commission back then used many L65's and my father was a plough-man since 1947 and came through with every new saw ever made back then.  I always had one as an emergency saw, especially in wind-blown stuff as it could fall and not break compared to plastic made units of today.
The L65 was a work-horse that chews trunks for break-fast compared to most other saws back then.

Robertmac

Quote from: bushmechanic on March 11, 2018, 07:17:28 AM
Robertmac you said that the saw was in storage for years, is there any chance that the crankshaft oil seals are dry rotted? I think it would be a good idea check to see if you might have an air leak before you waste too money in it. Just my two cents ;)  
Well said and yes I have checked this also.  It is all pointing to the carb and soon I will know as I have found a running unit, so i'll swap over the carbs and then take it from there.
The cost of all this is pennies compared to buying a modern newer saw of same power, hence I can afford to mess around with these old L65 heads as now the market is beginning to flood with them.
The spitting of her on rev's feels like a serious air leak, but I still think the carb is the trouble and replacing the electrics is now only pennies also, which will then keep her running for the rest of my days.
I have had her in storage for just over 25 years and it brought back a flood of memories from back then when I opened up the big crate.
So thanks but as you see it will become a hobby as well as a mission to get her back running as good as new again.  So a few quid to get her going is not going to be a problem.

LeeB

You should fill out your profile Robert. I suspect you're from the UK, especially after you mentioning "a few quid". 
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

Robertmac

Quote from: LeeB on March 11, 2018, 09:50:02 AM
You should fill out your profile Robert. I suspect you're from the UK, especially after you mentioning "a few quid".
I have serious network issues this end and it can take me three attempts to get a single comment on these notice boards.
I have the slowest connection in the UK, I'm in the Cambrian mountains in Wales but was born in the highlands of Scotland. I have a connection speed of 0.06 Mb's per second, so images are out and I cannot stream any media. I will try to fill out the profile page but the site here is very confusing to be honest on some things to get too easily, or maybe the site tries to load too much ads and bumff it just will load the page my end.  Even this post I may have to retype to get posted as the connection times out and the server this website is hosted on cuts me off.

HolmenTree

Welcome to Forestry Forum Robertmac. It's great to hear from other woodcutters from other parts of the world.
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

thecfarm

Jeff does a great job to help out members that has slow connections. I use to have dial up,no idea how slow,but slow,and he thinks about us with slow connections. Mine is not the best now, but it's all we can get.
Use the Copy and Paste as you post. Some members will type a long post and than lose it. :o And I think they have fast internet.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

HolmenTree

Yes I lost many long half written posts. No auto save here.
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

Chaser357

Had similar problem a while back.   Cleaned carb, new fuel filter, the works.   Still wouldn't rev properly.   Replaced spark plug and it ran perfectly.   Didn't see where you tried a new plug.   Sometimes I overlook the simplest things.   

Robertmac

Quote from: Chaser357 on March 12, 2018, 01:52:50 PM
Had similar problem a while back.   Cleaned carb, new fuel filter, the works.   Still wouldn't rev properly.   Replaced spark plug and it ran perfectly.   Didn't see where you tried a new plug.   Sometimes I overlook the simplest things.
new plug is the first thing I did for her.

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