shingle lapsider

Dan_Shade · March 23, 2011, 07:34:31 PM

anybody have one of these?

Does woodmizer still make them?

Anybody have one in the extended washington DC area?

Planman1954 · March 23, 2011, 08:26:44 PM

Don't know which one you are talking about. I did a thread a while back on a homemade jig to make shingles. As far as lap siding, I just use a litttle 3/8" thick block and slip it under one side to lift an 8" wide cant on an angle, drop the blade 1/4" and make a cut. Then on the next pass, I take away the spacers to let the cant rest on the bed, drop the blade 5/8" and make another cut. Put the spacer back...and so on. Makes nice beveled lap siding. Of course though, I have a manual mill. With a hydraulic mill, it would probably not be very practical.

Slingshot · March 23, 2011, 09:00:15 PM

I have one of the Woodmizer's. I have shown it in an earlier post.
I have only used it a little to try it out. Planning on more use for it. Fairly easy to
operate. ( But I'm not very close to DC. )
Woodmizer has them listed in their 'Sawmill add-ons and accessories'

__________________________________
Charles

DR Buck · March 23, 2011, 11:11:50 PM

Dan,

Let me know when you buy one so I can borrow it. ;D

clousert · March 24, 2011, 07:07:59 AM

A lapsider attachment is just a rod running through the log bunks, with welded-on cams that rock the cant upward when the shaft is turned with a handle. The cant has to be unclamped to operate the lever. For small orders, a cant-hook and a few shims can produce an adequate job. Saw one cut rocked, and one cut down flat. Repeat.

tkarsay · March 24, 2011, 12:45:36 PM

Dan

I'm kind of new here but I have one you can borrow. I'm located in Central New Jersey. Feel free to e-mail if you are interested.

Tom Karsay
Tom@karsaycoffee.com

beav39 · March 27, 2011, 11:40:34 AM

im in maine i have a woodmizer lapsider works great have done thousands of feet of siding no problems

Dan_Shade · March 27, 2011, 01:12:18 PM

how well does it work making shingles and shakes?

Slingshot · March 27, 2011, 03:05:40 PM

I haven't used mine for making shingles but planning to make a few just to see how it does
when the weather suits me a little better around here.

___________________________________

Charles

redbeard · March 28, 2011, 12:57:35 AM

I use mine for shingles works good its hard to use the setworks though, the blocks have to be perfectly lined up on the clamps so i just fly manually. Mine is a TK only difference is the paint, price is the same as WM. I use the shingles for side wall projects. Anyone know some tricks on the setworks i would sure like to learn them. Making lap siding the setworks works great its just on sawing 5 blocks at a time the shingles are too thin or two thick when using the setworks. I have to manually come down to my pre-drawn marks on the first block then they stay consistant.

Carpenter · March 28, 2011, 09:01:47 PM

Quote from: clousert on March 24, 2011, 07:07:59 AM
A lapsider attachment is just a rod running through the log bunks, with welded-on cams that rock the cant upward when the shaft is turned with a handle. The cant has to be unclamped to operate the lever. For small orders, a cant-hook and a few shims can produce an adequate job. Saw one cut rocked, and one cut down flat. Repeat.

I've never used one but, I don't understand why the cant would have to be unclamped to tilt it. I would think a thing could be made to hold the cant securely and tilt it and the clamps.
Do you have to reclamp the shingles every time?

backwoods sawyer · March 29, 2011, 09:19:01 AM

On the accuset 2 I use the "auto down mode" and alternate between two of them, just have to alternate to the other one before finishing the cut so that it can hold that height in the reference then it will set down to the next one. The setworks on the Cooks mill will not adjust for two increments on the same scroll and dose not have the ability to use a reference #, so it is set manually.

sdunston · March 29, 2011, 09:34:45 AM

I looked at the SLR and for the price it a good deal if you are cutting a small amount of sidding,Heavy to lift on an off mill and it olny cuts down to 2". I also looked at the resaw att that goes on the mill but I am in the process of cutting a deal on a HR120 8)

thanks Sam

Chuck White · March 29, 2011, 12:00:54 PM

Quote from: clousert on March 24, 2011, 07:07:59 AM
A lapsider attachment is just a rod running through the log bunks, with welded-on cams that rock the cant upward when the shaft is turned with a handle. The cant has to be unclamped to operate the lever. For small orders, a cant-hook and a few shims can produce an adequate job. Saw one cut rocked, and one cut down flat. Repeat.

Not exactly!

I would think that the clamp on the sawmill would hold the Shingle/Lap Sider securely in place and the clamps on the Shingle/Lap Sider would hold the cant!

If you had to loosen the clamps each time the cant was tilted, you wouldn't get any appreciable rate of production!

http://www.woodmizer.com/cs2/details2.aspx?item2=SLR&pn=SAccessories.aspx&option_num=268&i=LT40HDG28-RS&identity=57173&e=G28&g=LT40

Carpenter · March 29, 2011, 05:30:50 PM

Thats more like I had pictured Chuck.

How does one stack and sticker lap siding? Or shingles for that matter?

Planman1954 · March 29, 2011, 07:45:44 PM

The easy way to stack lap siding is 2 at the time. Then angles offset one another, keeping the stack level. Also, if there is a bleed of the stickers, it's on one side only. The other side is clear. I guess you could check for the best side as you stack, and place the two best sides face to face. God bless.

ARKANSAWYER · March 29, 2011, 09:15:46 PM

I have one and only use it for shingles now. I make bevel siding with my Arky resaw now as it is faster and has less waste. The thing about shingles is the drop is different from when the blocks are down to when they are up. On mine one drop is 3/4 and the other is 7/8 as the block changes when you move the lever. Shingles are stacked on a pallet and it is easy to put them on. You stack them like hay bales so that they overlap each other each run.
You will produce alot of blocks about 2 inches thick because you can not saw to the deck. To get by this I started gluing the blocks to a left over piece so I could saw more shingles. 5 min epoxy works good if the blocks are a bit dry. Gorilla glue works on green wood just takes a while to dry. I did about 20 square for a building and a lady bought all the 2 inch blocks for pavers on a garden walk way.

redbeard · April 01, 2011, 03:38:04 PM

Good idea using blocks. The setworks I have Iam sure there is a trick I just haven't figured it out yet. Its pretty fast using marks or guessing the consistancy is manageable.

Okrafarmer · December 02, 2012, 12:06:07 AM

We just bought one. I hope to get to using it in the next week or two for making live-edge lap-siding. I realize this could be a little trickier than simply using a rectangular cant. We have one customer already interested in some, but before we make it for a customer, we will make some lap-siding for Profdan's new goat and hay barn. That way, we'll know we're doing it right before doing it for someone else. ;)

I am planning to use Virginia pine for this project. The reasons: It is superabundant to us, is not very useful for other things, and comes in an average trunk diameter that is conducive to making live-edge lap-siding (typical diameter is 10-14"). I would have used sweetgum, but profdan was afraid it might rot out in the weather like that.

OK-- so, what do I need to do as far as drying the siding is concerned? I've known of people to put up board and baton siding green, with good results. What about lapsiding? Do we need to dry it? Treat it with anything? ??? I assume we need to peel the bark off the live edge. :P

Also, does anybody know how much exposure (or lap coverage) I need to maintain as I overlap these things on installation?

redbeard · December 02, 2012, 12:26:22 AM

This house was built by another sawmiller south of me, he used western red cedar. The sap wood will hold up better than the other fir trees in our area. He had a lap sider attch. But ended up just slabbing logs down so he had live edges on both sides 5/8 thick. You have a better selection doing your lay out and he chose to have the long point of the curve on edge pointing down to better shed the water.

bandmiller2 · December 02, 2012, 08:00:39 AM

The lapside really doesn't have to be tapered they can be cut say 3/4" and just put up,it has a good effect. Frank C.

Okrafarmer · December 02, 2012, 08:06:44 AM

Oh, now everybody's trying to tell us we don't need a lapsider now that we just bought one. >:(

Well-- we're going to use it anyway! ;D At least until we try it for a while. One good thing about it is that you get more boards out of a log.

Now, to my other questions.

Quote from: Okrafarmer on December 02, 2012, 12:06:07 AM
I am planning to use Virginia pine for this project. The reasons: It is superabundant to us, is not very useful for other things, and comes in an average trunk diameter that is conducive to making live-edge lap-siding (typical diameter is 10-14"). I would have used sweetgum, but profdan was afraid it might rot out in the weather like that.

OK-- so, what do I need to do as far as drying the siding is concerned? I've known of people to put up board and baton siding green, with good results. What about lapsiding? Do we need to dry it? Treat it with anything? ??? I assume we need to peel the bark off the live edge. :P

Also, does anybody know how much exposure (or lap coverage) I need to maintain as I overlap these things on installation?

Planman1954 · December 02, 2012, 09:56:18 AM

IMHO, the lap siding should be (at least) air dried before installation. A considerable gap will open up between pieces should it be installed green. Also, any finish applied will show raw wood as the pieces dry unevenly. Trust me...been there, done that!

As far as exposure, I use 8" wide pieces, and usually let 6 1/2" be exposed, creating a 1 1/2" lap. I guess you could do 7", but that's cutting it close with some of my cull boards with a little bark on them. Have fun!