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Reverse Roll Quarter Sawing

Started by YellowHammer, December 27, 2016, 01:02:45 AM

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flatrock58

Yellowhammer,
I guess I assumed you didn't get QS on every board.  How much waist is there with all the times you cut wedges?  I will have to try it.  You are getting some really nice QS boards!
2001 LT40 Super Kubota 42
6' extension
resaw attachment
CBN Sharpener
Cooks Dual Tooth Setter
Solar Kiln

YellowHammer

The waste varies from log to log.  It just depends in how forgiving the log is.  The main thing is to never lose it, just as it starts thinning, rotate the log, and get back in it. 
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

scsmith42

Very insightful technique - thanks for sharing.

One other benefit of this method is that every board is at maximum width.  With other methods of QSing you will end up with a mix of board widths.
Peterson 10" WPF with 65' of track
Smith - Gallagher dedicated slabber
Tom's 3638D Baker band mill
and a mix of log handling heavy equipment.

YellowHammer

Yes, you are correct, this gives a much higher percentage of wide boards. 
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

kelLOGg

I tried it with my manual MP32 on a knotty 16" short white oak. Not much to be lost if I screw up. I halved the log and cut two 16" QS boards just above the pith and the remainder I sawed ala reverse QSing.

My cam clamps did a good job of reverse rolling the cant. (Not shown is a wedge behind the log to at as a stop.)


 

First triangular waste piece.


 

Thin waste piece coming off.
 

 

Sawing off the bottom for the last piece.
 

 

QS lumber ranged in width from 3 to 5 inches. Looks to me like there is still some rift sawn but for the 1st time I am pretty pleased.


 

The waste is on the left.


 

Comments/suggestions welcome.
Bob

Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

YellowHammer

Congratulations, looks like you zeroed in real quick in picture 2, and nailed the fleck on the first wedge.  The fleck on the wedge look better than the through sawn surface.

I noticed that in picture 5, the log had a LOT of grain change, and the fleck moved a lot, which usually means it is very hard to stay on the fleck, however, you were able to cut boards with full width fleck, which again means you were dead on target, especially with the wider boards, as the technique is supposed to do.  The boards look good.

It also looks like the two full width center cut boards had less fleck than the RRQS boards.  This is something I've noticed also, and I have been taking less boards through the pith and getting right to slicing and dicing, as it allows the log half to be thicker, and RRQS boards to be wider.

I'm glad it worked with a manual mill, was it hard to hold? 
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

kelLOGg

I think the knots in this trial log contributed to the wandering grain.

The hold felt precarious - it was held mostly by gravity - the clamps and wedges mostly just stabilized it enough to keep the cant in place. I sawed slowly so little disturbing force was applied and nothing shifted. I was pleased how it all worked on this small log.

It did take longer than sawing quarters off the bottom and flipping but some of the time was a learning curve. So far I plan for RRQSing to be my go-to method for QS. We will see when I tackle some larger WO on my rollway. Thanks for the feedback.
Bob
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

Darrel

Bottom line, you've got yourself some purdy boards.  8)
1992 LT40HD

If I don't pick myself up by my own bootstraps, nobody else will.

scsmith42

WOW....

Yesterday we tried this technique for the first time and to say the least I was extremely impressed.

We started off with an 11' long WO log with a 19" small end diameter.  This log scaled to 175 board feet on International.  Due to the inherent losses when following traditional quartersawn methods, we anticipate a 30% yield loss over the international scale when following standard quartersawing methods.

However, with the Reverse Roll method we netted 145 board feet actual, which is about 12% greater than expected (18% yield loss instead of 30%).

We followed our standard QS procedures for the first portion of the milling; ie trim off the bark to turn the log into an octagon instead of a square cant, centering the pith on both ends and trimming the bark off on a taper instead of squaring it.  This results in tapered width boards from end to end, but most of our customers don't mind the fact that one end of the board is wider than the other and we get the benefit of a higher yield.

After trimming the bark we followed the Reverse Roll QS method.  We started by marking the medullary rays that we wanted to follow, and then started milling for 5/4 dry measure boards.  Typically we mill 5/4 boards at 1-7/16" to allow for drying related shrinkage (QS shrinks twice as much as FS when drying). 

With the reverse roll method we simply lowered the head 1-1/2" with each cut (after aligning the blade with the top of the partial cant after each turn).  After allowing for blade kerf we are netting a milled board right around 1-13/32" thick which will dry to 5/4.

We found the Reverse Roll method to be faster and easier, and one that clearly produced a higher yield of high fleck material as well as a higher percentage of wider boards. 

Many thanks for sharing this method.
Peterson 10" WPF with 65' of track
Smith - Gallagher dedicated slabber
Tom's 3638D Baker band mill
and a mix of log handling heavy equipment.

Qweaver

This is what I really love about the Peterson...quarter saw the entire log without turning.  Takes a big log to work well tho'
So Many Toys...So Little Time  WM LT28 , 15 trailers, Case 450 Dozer, John Deere 110 TLB, Peterson WPF 10",  AIM Grapple, Kubota 2501 :D

YellowHammer

Scsmith42
I'm glad the technique passed the test.  When milling for money, such as you do, higher yield and faster production is what it's all about.
Thanks for letting us know about your success with technique.  I'm glad it showed positive benefit.   
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

WDH

Robert, you need to file a patent.
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

Brad_bb

If you wanted to end up with some 2 inch dry planed boards (then milled I guess they'd have to be almost 2.5 inches)  would the reverse roll method still be used and could I get QS on both sides?  Or would I just have to accept rift on two sides or quarter on one side and rift on the other?  Part of it would depend on size of log I'm sure- the bigger the diameter, the more forgiving it would probably be to a wider board at the outside.  The biggest I have is 30 on the small end.  I want to build a heavy door like an antique one I've seen and the perimeter rails and styles be quarter sawn WO.
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

Crossroads

Thanks for sharing your technique, I have a couple oak logs laying in my yard that I hadn't decided what to do with them.
With the right fulcrum and enough leverage, you can move the world!

2017 LT40 wide, BMS250 and BMT250,036 stihl, 2001 Dodge 3500 5.9 Cummins, l8000 Ford dump truck, hr16 Terex excavator, Valley je 2x24 edger, Gehl ctl65 skid steer, JD350c dozer

Magicman

Quote from: Qweaver on March 02, 2017, 08:56:31 PMThis is what I really love about the Peterson...quarter saw the entire log without turning.
Quartersaw yes, but I doubt that you could effectively "chase the ray fleck" with a swingmill.   ???
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

scsmith42

Quote from: Brad_bb on March 03, 2017, 08:13:08 AM
If you wanted to end up with some 2 inch dry planed boards (then milled I guess they'd have to be almost 2.5 inches)  would the reverse roll method still be used and could I get QS on both sides?  Or would I just have to accept rift on two sides or quarter on one side and rift on the other?  Part of it would depend on size of log I'm sure- the bigger the diameter, the more forgiving it would probably be to a wider board at the outside.  The biggest I have is 30 on the small end.  I want to build a heavy door like an antique one I've seen and the perimeter rails and styles be quarter sawn WO.

It depends upon the log but I think that you would be yielding high fleck QS on both faces of the board.  If you want to net 2" after drying and planing, you probably better mill at 2-5/8" green.  QSWO will shrink 12% or so during drying, so a 2.675" green board will dry to around 2-1/4", allowing you 1/8" per side for S2S.
Peterson 10" WPF with 65' of track
Smith - Gallagher dedicated slabber
Tom's 3638D Baker band mill
and a mix of log handling heavy equipment.

Brad_bb

Thanks scsmith42!  I have a toe board for my mill now that I will install and show in a post soon.  Next I need to work on a turner and I'll be set.
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

paul case

I had never purposely set out to quarter saw any lumber, but this thread crossed with a few white oak logs I was sawing for grade I decided to try it. It worked just as well for me and I was using the old mill with the flip clamp. Sure makes some marvelous looking lumber! Thanks.

PC
life is too short to be too serious. (some idiot)
2013 LT40SHE25 and Riehl edger,  WM 94 LT40 hd E15. Cut my sawing ''teeth'' on an EZ Boardwalk
sawing oak.hickory,ERC,walnut and almost anything else that shows up.
Don't get phylosophical with me. you will loose me for sure.
pc

Darrel

Paul, I was wondering how my old flip clamp would work, thanks for that bit of info.
1992 LT40HD

If I don't pick myself up by my own bootstraps, nobody else will.

YellowHammer

I am greatly pleased folks are having success with this technique. 
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

Magicman

Sharing is the Forestry Forum way, and it always makes two people happy.   ;D
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Brad_bb

What's a flip clamp?  Pics?  Or better yet Vid?
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

paul case

Here is a video. However I know of more of them like mine where the auto up down flipper doesnt work and you use your God given tools to put it up and down.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BGJaiNh8v6I

PC
life is too short to be too serious. (some idiot)
2013 LT40SHE25 and Riehl edger,  WM 94 LT40 hd E15. Cut my sawing ''teeth'' on an EZ Boardwalk
sawing oak.hickory,ERC,walnut and almost anything else that shows up.
Don't get phylosophical with me. you will loose me for sure.
pc

YellowHammer

Quote from: terrifictimbersllc on December 29, 2016, 08:56:28 AM
Thanks for this writeup. I'll try it next time.  First Bibby the log, then (Yellow)Hammer it! :D :D :D

Quote from: WDH on March 03, 2017, 08:00:07 AM
Robert, you need to file a patent.

Hey, I'll call it the YellowHammer Reverse Roll Quartersawing Technique

Or the shorter, easier, and much more convienient abbreviation YHRRQST :D :D 

For some reason, "Bibbying" rolls off the tongue better. 

Where's Poston when you need him?   :D
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

WDH

Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

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