Does anybody know we're I could find loading rate charts for deferent species of wood? I'm wanting to build a building and I know what size I would use if I was going to a hardware store but I want o saw it myself and sense dug fir pine and spruce arnt native here I'm going with more readly available species . Like what size in sycamore should I use to span what I normal would use a 2x8x16 dug fir for?
If you go to extras at the top of page, drop down to tool box, there is a good chance you may find what you are looking for there.
I thought you was gona step in it deep and talk about what you charge people to unload/load their lumber/ logs and that goat would chime in with his money making scheemes.
you are not so carry on.
PC
I wouldn't choose Sycamore. Sycamore looks best quarter sawn and sold for woodworking.
Use Oak or other hardwood species after you've considered their properties.
If you're building conventional, then why not use readily available framing lumber?
Don't you have Yellow Pine there?
Well Pual I hope there's a day when I can talk about loading rates but for right know it's just a few Mobil jobs. And there's no yellow pine that I know about maybe a few yard trees here and there. And I just like the idea of sawing all my own lumber that's why I wanted the mill and for the sycomore we farm in the river bottoms and there's a good amount of it along the river and low ground and plenty of it showes un desirable reasons to not q saw pith off center but I do agree q- saw sycomore is purty
I am presuming you are in the northern part of the state?
I'm right about in the middle boone county 15 mins north of the capital we have red white oak cotton wood walnut sycamore hackberry elm ash maple hickory and some others I cut for a guy that has gotten logs in a shipping container from some where with red wood dug fir and pine I wish we had some of those native here o yea and we have ERC
From what I remember the load charts for building construction only listed SPF, LVL (laminated veneer lumber), wood "I" joists, wood box trusses, steel beams, and flitch beams (combination of steel/wood bolted together) for span calculations. Doubtful you would find a chart for Sycamore, as the charts only show commonly used framing materials that have been tested by structural engineers.
I like your " logging so I can afford to farm". I'm in the same boat I'm sawing building coops selling firewood trimming trees laying tile hauling straw operating a pick ur own pumpkin patch and more so I can afford to farm with my dad and uncle it ain't cheap to sopport a family of five
Resonator I did a search for framing lumber sycamore and found a topic where bibbyman built all his trusses and framing for a saw shed addition out of green sycamore which is what I'm wanting to do I like building the old school way and that's why I wanted a mill
Quote from: Farm29 on December 20, 2017, 08:03:09 PM
Does anybody know we're I could find loading rate charts for deferent species of wood? I'm wanting to build a building and I know what size I would use if I was going to a hardware store but I want o saw it myself and sense dug fir pine and spruce arnt native here I'm going with more readly available species . Like what size in sycamore should I use to span what I normal would use a 2x8x16 dug fir for?
Don't know if this will help you or not but couldn't hurt to post it I guess.
http://www.getredwood.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/Redwood-Douglas-fir-Span-Chart.pdf (http://www.getredwood.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/Redwood-Douglas-fir-Span-Chart.pdf)
Built his barn for our pumpkin patch a couple summers back wish I would of had the mill then but it's all " store bought lumber"
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/44733/image~44.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1513866231)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/44733/image~42.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1513866222)
Fantastic barn!
We have neighbors up in NH that live in the second floor of their barn.
If you google rafter span charts for your state it should list dimensions of what is needed per species. Sometimes they are lumped together. But it will tell you what you need for your spans and such.
Howdy neighbor!
There are lots of calculations and analysis that COULD be done. Short answer though is hardwood is stronger than softwood. So, if you keep it the same size as what you would have built with spruce/fir/pine you will be fine.
Brad, if you think using Sycamore for framing is bad, I shouldn't tell you how much of it gets cut for pallets. ;) :) Lot's of it at the edge of row crop bottom ground. It's big and stacks up quick!
There is quite a bit of pine in MO, but mostly in the southeast part of the state. South of I44 generally. There are pockets elsewhere, but even in SE MO, it's more pockets or Oak-Pine than Pine forest. Over most of the state, Oak dominates.
Not to far TKehl. That's what I figured was it could span what a comparable pine fir could. I always seem to overbuild but I'd rather it be that way then under build.