I have had this saw for about four years now and love it. After the first year the starter pulley broke, pin broke out of the plastic. When I picked up a new one to replace it the dealer told me that it broke because I wasn't using the decompression function. I had a 262XP for 20 years and never used the decompression so I looked into my issue with this saw. What I found was that pitch was sticking the starter pawls and I was trying to start it with one pawl which in turn broke the pulley. Every six months or more I have to take it all apart and clean it with no issues since, so I was wondering if anyone else has had this problem? What has anyone else did to combat this?
Bush,
What do you think about the 562's.
I've been thinking about buying one more saw and that's the one I want to add.
Sounds like you are cutting a lot of pine with it.
I'd be doing pine, hardwoods and hemlock.
They are offering it to me at a good price so it's tempting.
Quote from: bushmechanic on January 05, 2018, 05:32:26 PM
I have had this saw for about four years now and love it. After the first year the starter pulley broke, pin broke out of the plastic. When I picked up a new one to replace it the dealer told me that it broke because I wasn't using the decompression function. I had a 262XP for 20 years and never used the decompression so I looked into my issue with this saw. What I found was that pitch was sticking the starter pawls and I was trying to start it with one pawl which in turn broke the pulley. Every six months or more I have to take it all apart and clean it with no issues since, so I was wondering if anyone else has had this problem? What has anyone else did to combat this?
Ive had issues with the starter pawls on mine freezing up. I just got it this fall so I have not had an opportunity to run it heavily in a pitchy environment like cutting spruce/fir in spring and summer.
Well Stoneyacrefarm I have had this saw for a while now and as I said it's great. I'm not very hard on a saw as the last saw I had before the 562XP was a 262XP. Had that saw for over 20 years an have yet to see the inside of it. When I got the 562 it was a pig on gas and it would hesitate bad when you gave it the throttle, the dealer took her back and did some upgrades to it and it's been perfect ever since. Hands down the best saw I ever used for limbing...superb throttle response. I don't think it has the power that the 262XP had, but not that noticeable. I don't cut any pine with it, illegal to cut pine here... maximum fine $10 000.! :o I cut a lot of Balsom fir and black spruce with a small bit of hardwood. I would recommend that saw to anyone but to each his own.
gman98 that's when I noticed mine was giving problems, frosty mornings I would pull the cord and it would miss. The frost seems to get into the pitch and holds back the pawls. Better clean yours before you break a pulley! Be sure to put a bit of oil or light grease so you can get a while out of it.
As a suggestion WD-40 would probably soften pitch then just a puff of compressed air could blow it away .That stuff is good for a lot of things .
Quote from: bushmechanic on January 12, 2018, 05:32:04 AM
Well Stoneyacrefarm I have had this saw for a while now and as I said it's great. I'm not very hard on a saw as the last saw I had before the 562XP was a 262XP. Had that saw for over 20 years an have yet to see the inside of it. When I got the 562 it was a pig on gas and it would hesitate bad when you gave it the throttle, the dealer took her back and did some upgrades to it and it's been perfect ever since. Hands down the best saw I ever used for limbing...superb throttle response. I don't think it has the power that the 262XP had, but not that noticeable. I don't cut any pine with it, illegal to cut pine here... maximum fine $10 000.! :o I cut a lot of Balsom fir and black spruce with a small bit of hardwood. I would recommend that saw to anyone but to each his own.
gman98 that's when I noticed mine was giving problems, frosty mornings I would pull the cord and it would miss. The frost seems to get into the pitch and holds back the pawls. Better clean yours before you break a pulley! Be sure to put a bit of oil or light grease so you can get a while out of it.
I will usually either hold the saw over the exhaust of the skidder if the skidder man is right there or dump a little gas down into the recoil assembly. That seems to free things up fine.
Thanks guys.
I've got a 576 and a 390. Like them both a lot.
Getting ready to cut a big pine stand at my place so thought why not try the 562 for limbing.
Little lighter than the 576.
Plus. Who doesn't love a new saw. 8)
Bushmechanic. What is up with the fine if you cut pine?
Stoneyacrefarm pine doesn't grow very well here and for years the white pine were harvested relentlessly for boat sail masts, almost to the point of extinction. Now the Dept. of forestry won't let anyone cut them at all. You won't be sorry if your looking for a limbing saw in the 562XP. Do your local dealer demo saws because it's worth your time to try one.
Quote from: bushmechanic on January 05, 2018, 05:32:26 PM
I have had this saw for about four years now and love it. After the first year the starter pulley broke, pin broke out of the plastic. When I picked up a new one to replace it the dealer told me that it broke because I wasn't using the decompression function. I had a 262XP for 20 years and never used the decompression so I looked into my issue with this saw. What I found was that pitch was sticking the starter pawls and I was trying to start it with one pawl which in turn broke the pulley. Every six months or more I have to take it all apart and clean it with no issues since, so I was wondering if anyone else has had this problem? What has anyone else did to combat this?
Husqvarna's are not alone in this problem, I've had some similar issues on Stihl products over the years. Unfortunately the build quality of these starter systems is pretty poor nowadays, and getting worse imo..
Quote from: Stoneyacrefarm on January 12, 2018, 01:27:14 PM
Thanks guys.
I've got a 576 and a 390. Like them both a lot.
Getting ready to cut a big pine stand at my place so thought why not try the 562 for limbing.
Little lighter than the 576.
Plus. Who doesn't love a new saw. 8)
Bushmechanic. What is up with the fine if you cut pine?
Stoney, I have felled, limbed, and bucked pine with my 562. I run a 20" .058 bar with an Oregon 73LGX072G chain. I find the 562 is an excellent saw for all uses when cutting pine, not just limbing.
I had a 562XP and had the same problems as you. This comment will irritate a lot of people but the 562XP is junk. Badly made and unreliable. I dumped mine.
Back to your problem.... The first time around you need to replace the pawls and the cheap plastic rewind pulley at the same time. I would buy an extra rewind pulley to have on hand. Using the compression release every time you start will take some of the pressure off the rewind and it will last longer.
Quote from: gman98 on January 12, 2018, 06:19:03 AM
I will usually either hold the saw over the exhaust of the skidder if the skidder man is right there or dump a little gas down into the recoil assembly. That seems to free things up fine.
That brings back memories when I logged with my Jonsereds 621 back in the 1970's.
Did the same thing when felling in the winter months.
Even started a fire with the saw to light my cigarette when I ran out of matches .
Pull out the spark plug, lay it against the metal top cover with the wire and boot attached.
Take a piece of the cigarette package paper tin foil , dip it in the gas tank then put it under the plug.
Pull the starter rope and you got fire
Hahaha. :D
Never had a problem with my 562XP rewind starter.
An advice about the Swedish chainsaw starters is to pull out the starter handle some 20 cm (8") when stopping them. The engine will quite often give a slight kick back when stopping, thereby putting strain on the starter.
As I do here when testing a new toy, moments before falling: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XF4fAyrp6Rw
Don't do it on Stihl chainsaws. On a Stihl you will eventually wear out the pawls by doing it.
Quote from: sablatnic on January 17, 2018, 07:34:28 PM
Don't do it on Stihl chainsaws. On a Stihl you will eventually wear out the pawls by doing it.
No need to hold the starter handle out on a Stihl. The built in shock absorber in the Stihl ElastoStart handle reduces kickback shock.
Quote from: HolmenTree on January 17, 2018, 08:01:14 PM
Quote from: sablatnic on January 17, 2018, 07:34:28 PM
Don't do it on Stihl chainsaws. On a Stihl you will eventually wear out the pawls by doing it.
No need to hold the starter handle out on a Stihl. The built in shock absorber in the Stihl ElastoStart handle reduces kickback shock.
It is even better than that. On the Stihls the pawls are in the pulley, and will not come out until you pull the rope, and will not have engaged if the engine kicks back. Unless you pull out the rope!
On Husqvarnas, and most other saws, the pawls are in the flywheel, and will engage as soon as the engine stops, so they will have engaged when the engine kicks back.
Quote from: sablatnic on January 18, 2018, 05:58:53 AM
Quote from: HolmenTree on January 17, 2018, 08:01:14 PM
Quote from: sablatnic on January 17, 2018, 07:34:28 PM
Don't do it on Stihl chainsaws. On a Stihl you will eventually wear out the pawls by doing it.
No need to hold the starter handle out on a Stihl. The built in shock absorber in the Stihl ElastoStart handle reduces kickback shock.
It is even better than that. On the Stihls the pawls are in the pulley, and will not come out until you pull the rope, and will not have engaged if the engine kicks back. Unless you pull out the rope!
On Husqvarnas, and most other saws, the pawls are in the flywheel, and will engage as soon as the engine stops, so they will have engaged when the engine kicks back.
Thanks for clarifying that sablatnic,
Now we 're all on the same page.
After running Huskies for the last 10 years I lost sight of the Stihls.
Just goes to prove another superior design from Stihl.
Quote from: HolmenTree on January 17, 2018, 04:07:17 PM
Quote from: gman98 on January 12, 2018, 06:19:03 AM
I will usually either hold the saw over the exhaust of the skidder if the skidder man is right there or dump a little gas down into the recoil assembly. That seems to free things up fine.
That brings back memories when I logged with my Jonsereds 621 back in the 1970's.
Did the same thing when felling in the winter months.
Even started a fire with the saw to light my cigarette when I ran out of matches .
Pull out the spark plug, lay it against the metal top cover with the wire and boot attached.
Take a piece of the cigarette package paper tin foil , dip it in the gas tank then put it under the plug.
Pull the starter rope and you got fire
Hahaha. :D
Never had a problem with my 562XP rewind starter.
Gonna have to remember that for next time my lighter freezes up! :D