What can put on boards to help with checking?

[Bolie]

New to all this am gonna need plenty help and advice

[Chuck White]

Welcome to the Forestry Forum Bolie!

Lots of people will end-coat the ends of their logs to prevent end-check!

There are special products available for that, in a pinch, some have even spray painted the ends of their logs!

[terrifictimbersllc]

Welcome Bolie.  Anchorseal, from www.uccoatings.com.  The latest is Anchorseal 2, but some here like the old Anchorseal better.  You can buy both postpaid from the manufacturer.

[Magicman]

Welcome to the Forestry Forum, Bolie.  How about sharing more about yourself and your sawing interest.   

[WDH]

Anchorseal works wonderfully.  Paint had very marginal impact in my experience. 

[Bolie]

Well y'all thanks for advice on Anchorseal.Looks like I got same mill as Chuck same year model with 2230 hrs on it.Been wanting one a long time finally found it in Meridian Ms.I have a tree service and small logging company didnt think I would have as much time as I have but works been slow last few months.Never thought much bout sawing for $ but almost got my house built by using a friend of mine sawmill off and on last few yrs. Anyway I run across some pretty nice logs and now in a dilemma on what to cut outta what I have. got some big poplar, Pine,Red Oak and sawing on it every chance I get but have no idea if and what there is a demand for if any. I live in Clinton La about a hour and a half from Magicman. I'm gonna keep cutting away and try not to give the big sawmills to much. Theres a whole lot I dont know about sawing but I know I love doing it and want to learn all I can about it. So bottom line is any advice about anything to do with running the sawmill and cutting lumber will be greatly appriciated... Thanks again

[Ron Wenrich]

Anchorseal is used on the logs.  For boards, you need to put them on stickers and keep those stickers lined up close to the end.  Endchecks usually don't go that deep and can be trimmed off.  Checking and splits generally don't go beyond the stickers unless there's a lot of tension in the wood.

Surface checking happens when the wood dries too fast.  That may happen in oak when placed where there is a drying wind, especially in springtime.  Keeping it under roof with good air circulation is ok.  Too much air will produce the surface checks.  Letting it lay in the sun with no cover will also produce checks.

Surface checks often go away as the interior moisture content becomes the same as the surface.  Commercial humidity kilns bring the surface moisture content back up before they bring the moisture down throughout the board.  They create stability throughout the board.  Most often, those surface checks will seal back up through the kilning process. 

[Magicman]

I live in Clinton La about a hour and a half from Magicman. 

Been there.  Next time that we have a "gathering", you are invited.   

[Al_Smith]

For logs I personally use roofing tar .Before milling them I cut a cookie off the end and swear them with anchor seal .

You don't want to run the tar through a bandsaw .Smears the lumber,makes a mell of a hess .Tar coated cookies burn real well , keeps the mosquitoes away too . ;)

[WDH]

Bolie,

There are not many commercial hardwood mills in that area if I remember right.  Cut the oak and poplar at 1 1/8" thick random width, air dry it, and advertise it on the New Orleans Craigslist.  I am sure that it will sell nicely.

[POSTON WIDEHEAD]

The BEST thing I have found to put on the ends of my boards to keep them from checking is

50 year EXTERIOR SILICONE right from the tube. I keep a tube or two at the mill. I just apply it from the gun right onto the end of the board. It fills in and covers all the cracks and dries clear. If SILICONE can keep air out of your house, it will keep it out of your lumber. I have had nothing but positive results.  8)

[WDH]

If I remember right, from a woodworking standpoint, say with hardwood, silicon is bad news because it must be completely removed from the wood or it screws up the ability to apply finish to your project.  It causes varnish to "fish-eye". 

[tyb525]

I can't imagine using silicone, considering how much a tube costs, and the time it would take to coat each board end. It's much more efficient to coat the end of the log before sawing with anchorseal. Then, each board is already end sealed I bought a 5 gallon bucket 2 years ago, and still have over half a bucket left. Keep in mind I also coat turning blanks as well as log ends.

I personally use a paint brush, but I've heard a roller is effective too. Sprayers get plugged up too easy, so I've heard.

[WDH]

Ty,

I am a paint-brush guy, too  .

[Bolie]

WDH,
Thanks for info..They do have two hardwood mills I have hauled to to pay bills,but dont think they sell small amts. What they dont have around here is a pine lumber mill.When I have to sell it got to go 70 miles up into Ms.to a middle man and they haul it on somewhere else I really enjoy sawing and everything else that goes with it.I cut alot of wide boards just because I can I guess.Probably not right thing to do but guess I'll learn. I cut about 40 cherry boards 1 x 22" a  yr ago with my friends mill.Dont know what Im gonna do with them but I gottem. I'm cutting big red oak now,then some big poplar and got some nice pine logs to saw. Cut some tight pine the other day 20" dia. 80 yrs old its slow cutting.Got to find somebody around here to see if my mill is cutting to its potential! Thanks again

[Tree Feller]

Anchorseal is the defacto standard for end-sealing logs. If the log end is sealed, then the individual board ends will also be sealed when sawn. Ron is also correct that stickers placed close to the end of boards in a stack will help control the depth of end checks since they normally don't extend beyond the first sticker.

Roofing tar, aluminum paint mixed with varnish and paraffin wax are also good end sealers. Latex paint is not a good sealant since it is formulated to allow water vapor to pass through it. The purpose of an end sealer is to slow down the moisture loss through the porous end-grain and allow more even drying.

[POSTON WIDEHEAD]

If I remember right, from a woodworking standpoint, say with hardwood, silicon is bad news because it must be completely removed from the wood or it screws up the ability to apply finish to your project.  It causes varnish to "fish-eye".

I just use Silicone on the ends of my bench slabs. After the slab dries after about 3 years, just trim the ends of the slab off with the skill saw.
Here is one of my RED OAK slabs I am using for a bench. My neighbor sawed this slab 6 years ago for me. I applied Silicone JUST TO THE ENDS. When I'm finished, I trim the ends with the skill saw and apply stain and poly. This slab is 24 inches wide.



  

 

[Lud]

I use the anchor seal  with a 2" roller on a 2' handle. My bucket is a cutoff detergent jug with  another jug's top that fits down over the first with the handle  coming  thru the pour spout.  The whole thing fits in a trash bag that wraps up around the handle with a rubber band.  It does not dry out and is always ready to use.

The 2" roller transfers plenty and spreads it around fast. The handle length gives you plenty of reach and no bending over.  It's great stuff.  Seems I order a jug every other year. ;D

[John S]

I use Bailey Seal (from one of our sponsors "Baileys").  It is very similar to Anchorseal, but since I do use it and it is one of our sponsors, I thought they should get a mention.

[WDH]

David,

That slab dried beautifully!

[petefrom bearswamp]

I have always used Anchorseal but it does penetrate the end a little so I make sure I have plenty of trim length.
5 gal Anchorseal is $.
Equal amount of silicone $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$