Dealing with Building Officials and Engineers

[slowzuki]

I'm an engineer myself so I'm not being rude in this post but how have others experiences been?

Our issues with the building inspector:
-doesn't want ungraded lumber
-wants engineered plans for the building frame therefore wants engineered foundation


Issues with the Engineer (hired due to building inspector):
-wants to build a foundation that will survive nuclear fallout! He wants no cracking and about 3 times the min fill and a highway type roller to compact, no vibratory plates.
-Won't give his cost until done
-Has cost use 3 weeks with winter hot on our heals

I know they are reqd but our place is going to end up 3 times the $ and 5x stronger than any of our conventional built neighbours.  Its only a shop!  Sorry just some venting.

[Buzz-sawyer]

Slowzuki
I hear ya....
At times it seems they get together after work laughin at how they got ya jumpin through the hoop....just to see the monkey dance :( ;)
Ridiculous is the only appropriate word for them or thier plans.....

[slowzuki]

As an engineer myself I understand their reasoning as they remain proffesionally liable for their design.  I have no intention of sueing if the floor cracks but some people would.
Ken

Slowzuki
I hear ya....
At times it seems they get together after work laughin at how they got ya jumpin through the hoop....just to see the monkey dance :( ;)
Ridiculous is the only appropriate word for them or thier plans.....

[JoeyLowe]

Hey Slowzuki:

Having just went through this process, here are a couple of tips for ya.  First off, if the engineer isn't "timber frame" friendly or knowledgeable, fire him and hire someone who understands timberframing.  If you don't have a plan already drawn, be prepared to wait awhile.  The better ones can take up to six months or longer to get to your turn.  If the plans are already drawn, the wait is much shorter as long as you don't have anything "unusual" going on.

Our building inspector only requested that we use #5 rebar for the footings instead of #4 which was allowed by code.

As for graded vs. ungraded lumber, I'm assuming you mean the timbers.  If that is the case, are you milling the timbers?  If so, do a good job and get a bunch ready for a grader to grade.  There are plenty of traveling graders who don't charge an arm and a leg to grade.  Just make sure that the timbers are of the best quality and have them identified so that the grader will know what you intend to use them for.  I'm not making any suggestions here, but I guarantee that the inspector is not going to check every timber for a stamp.  Then again,. he just might.

I've said it before and I'll stick to my story here.  It pays off huge dividends to become more than just casual acquaintances with the code guys.  Get to know them.  Pop in their office every so often and chat with them.  Invite them out for coffee or over to your place so they can see what you are doing.  Can't promise that they will bend the rules, but it sure makes it easier to deal with someone you know instead of a complete stranger.  Bottom line is that if the code guys feel comfortable in that you are a cautious, prudent and safe builder, you typically won't have much interference from them.

Good luck!

[Jim_Rogers]

I haven't personally read a code book for any state.
But I have been told that there were lines in the code, in the past, that stated that certain things had to be this size or that size "or equivalent".
If you can prove with documentation that your design or whatever falls under the category of "or equivalent" then you should be able to prove your case and get things by the inspector.
But again it's all in how you approach your inspector. If you go in there with an attitude then you're going to have problems. You'll get more help from them if you go in and ask questions. And it's how you ask the question.

You may need to find someone who has a code book and do some research.
In my state there are men who run "code issues" services and you pay them a fee and they find these code solutions or answers for you, and help you comply with the code without breaking the bank.

Joey's advice about finding a TF engineer could be a big plus for your side . They will be able to help you.

Good luck.
Jim Rogers

[IndyIan]

Slowzuki,
Have you read the sections of the building code that apply to you?  An engineered foundation sounds a bit silly, there are lots of steel buildings with concentrated post loads which I'd think are covered in the code.  Calculate your loads and select the proper footing design.    

We went through abit of this stuff on our stick frame house and we found an engineer that would basically do the calcs for our ideas and then stamp them.  He didn't design anything.  Just made sure it worked.  I guess you can't do this for a whole timber frame but simple stuff it worked well.

Ian
  

  
  

[slowzuki]

I've been through the code a bit more and to the letter we need an engineer to stamp but the last word is the building inspector.  Basically if you can show similar foundations that have held up fine they will approve.

I get to let the engineer go today, I asked for a quote on what his cost would be a week ago, haven't heard back since despite him saying he would call last thurs.

I have a really good idea of how I want to do the foundation now and suspect the building inspector will agree.

Ken

[SwampDonkey]

Never had to go through that here except when constructing a potato house, which we thought we had financing through FCC.FCC even recommended the engineer for the plans. In the end they forfeited the assistance and here we had plans we didn't neccessarily need. And had to finance the building through the bank instead. It wasn't as if we hadn't built 3 potato sheds before. Built sheds and other out buildings and never needed plans. The contractors don't warrant the cement works anyway, good luck if it cracks or is malformed. Seems as long as its structurally sound the inspector stamps'r anyway. No matter what mess the contractor makes.



There have been alot of complaints from new home owners of pour (cosmetic) cement jobs. Some even have formed cracks within 2 years. They are structurall sound (supposedly) and approved.

cheers