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Walnut slabs

Started by Kenzen, June 21, 2014, 02:27:33 PM

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Kenzen

Was lucky enough to be able to find some free fairly large walnut trees (25" avg. DBH) that a family did not want anymore.  So we are now sawing them into some slabs to make mantles out of and was interested in best ways to dry them.  If I understand right, that the MC on air drying thick walnut need to be below 30% before putting them in a kiln.  So what are some of your experiences with drying slab walnut.  Also I had read an article that stated that making a kerf toward the pith lengthwise would decrease some of the stresses in the interior of the slab.  I do know that this is done in Japan for some of their logs, esp. a cedar that they have.

Ianab

There is no exact number that you would air dry too before kilning. You could put them into a kiln right away, but you need to be careful with thick green wood, and dry it relatively slowly to avoid surface checking etc. This means it ties up your kiln for a long time, which costs $$.

So it is common to air dry for a while first, then put it in the kiln to finish. Below about 30% is where the wood gets more forgiving to dry, and you can use a faster kiln schedule. But you can happily air dry to 20, or 15, or whatever your local climate allows.

The good news is that walnut is pretty forgiving to air dry. Bugs don't attack it, it resists mould and fungus, and the shrinkage is relatively even, so it tends to dry fairly flat. All good things

Regarding sawing a kerf in the back of the board? I can see that possibly helping to reduce any cupping as the slab dries. Like a relief cut that's made in that back of wide floorboards etc.  Don't know if I'd bother with walnut though. It's pretty stable as it dries. Just cut a little thicker so you are able to machine out any cupping once the piece is dry and stops moving.

Ian
Weekend warrior, Peterson JP test pilot, Dolmar 7900 and Stihl MS310 saws and  the usual collection of power tools :)

Den Socling

What are you desired dimensions?

GeneWengert-WoodDoc

End coat, end coat and end coat and use a commercial end coating.  Use end coating on any knotty areas.  Slow drying is a key.
Gene - Author of articles in Sawmill & Woodlot and books: Drying Hardwood Lumber; VA Tech Solar Kiln; Sawing Edging & Trimming Hardwood Lumber. And more

5quarter

Quote from: GeneWengert-WoodDoc on June 22, 2014, 07:25:30 AM
End coat, end coat and end coat and use a commercial end coating.  Use end coating on any knotty areas.  Slow drying is a key.
Hear! Hear! Walnut dries well generally, but it is bad for end-splitting. you can loose a foot off each end trimming off the splits.I don't end coat every log, but I do end coat every walnut log.
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Blue Harbor Refinishing

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