hey guys just needing some ideas I have already bought a trailer and mounted a swing arm in the front center and I plan on mounting a winch to this so I can pic up all these free logs around any idea how big a winch i need ? ie.1500lb or what? Its just to much trouble to load the tractor un load take logs home go back load tractor again.
Assuming you talking electric winch ? Bigger is better, I'd go with at least 3000
yes electric 12 volt I didnt really know the weight of decent size logs to go by
There's a log weight calc in the forum extras. Of course you gotta factor in sliding resistance
Don't know about the free logs (my free logs have dryied up ) but I'd go 8000 lb. You could parbuckle up the side or pull them up the end with a gin-pole, or if the trailer tilts, that works well too.
PS. you might look at electric over hydraulic also.
What
I pull logs up from the back, my sides are too high for it to be practical to pull them up over the sides.
Search for DanG-DeadHeader log lifter here on the forum.
Definitely Fla Deadheader set up, simple stupid, cheap, effective. There it covered everything necessary for me to be interested ;D Really cool design.
Ironwood
My experience with 12V lifting winches is that they lift far less than specified. I wish I could say how much less, it is something like half or less. So the 80000 pound suggested earlier is probably a good choice.
One last thing, be sure and set a large battery next to the winch and use big cables, don't skimp on the cable size.
Also, keep in mind that some winches are not made for lifting, just pulling!
I use a manual 1500# winch with a brake. I can lift 800# without much effort. The brake holds the load in place and prevents freewheeling.
I think most winches are rated for max pull with the first layer of cable on the spool. As you add more cable to the spool (diameter increases) the pulling capacity goes down.
Winches are one area where I think it is better to err on the "Bigger is better" side of the equation....
If money's an issue, you may look into manual winches instead of electric. I can mount two manual winches on my trailer and have used them to purbuckle several logs in the 3000-5000 lb. range with little effort. I don't know what the winches are rated for, I got them for free from a friend. I can tell you they are very heavy duty :).
Chek out portable winch,You could use it in your wood lot,and 100's of other uses.
You can pretty much double any winches pull by using a snatch block on the load.
you could do it this way.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11185/logtrailer3i.jpg)
I've got an 8000lb electric on the front of mine and have yet to find a log that cannot be loaded.
Including this one...;D
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/12750/bigoakopt7.jpg)
With all the weight you are putting into motion, you do not want to be wondering if your winch can handle it while it's on the way up. ;)
Quote from: breederman on January 03, 2009, 08:20:39 PM
Search for DanG-DeadHeader log lifter here on the forum.
Alright dan explain how this contraption works ?
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/12431/img83ff12.JPG)
I have a #9000 electric winch and like metalspinner I have yet to find a log it wont load. Just be sure to start with a fresh battery. I am using a 1000cca battery and can load several big logs with it but I wouldnt try ( :) again :) ) for two trips without recharging the battery each trip.
I have a setup like Dakota. It works great. I use a 10,000# Warn winch and even though this setup doesn't do a dead pull, It grunts a bit on huge logs.
It's been mentioned already, but winch most winches are rated for rolling weight, like a vehicle. I have a 9,000 lb. winch on my trailer, just drag them up the back, and I gotta use a snatch block on the big'uns.
Quote from: SCSawyer on January 04, 2009, 02:54:07 PM
Quote from: breederman on January 03, 2009, 08:20:39 PM
Search for DanG-DeadHeader log lifter here on the forum.
Alright dan explain how this contraption works ?
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/12431/img83ff12.JPG)
SCSawyer, the one pictured was built and owned by Getoverit. He built his as an A frame, which seems to work pretty well. The principle is simple. The arch is hinged at the bottom, and you simply lower it by reversing the winch, which is attached to the top. Once you've lowered it an appropriate amount, which will be obvious, you simply attach the end of the log to the top, via a chain or cable, and winch it forward. As it moves forward, the top of the arch also gets higher, which lifts the end of the log onto the trailer. At that point, you can either lower it and reattach the log further back, or simply hook the winch directly to the log and drag it aboard. It works really good on a trailer that is low, with rails or wheels that are higher than the bed. I used a 10,500lb Milemarker hydraulic winch on mine. Getoverit had a 8000lb Harbor Freight electric on his and it worked well too.
Si,electric winches are quick and easy but have kinda severe duty cycle limits and will bring a battery to its knees fast.What I did was get a commercial grade electric winch with a burned out motor [common]and mounted a hydraulic motor in its place,unlimited duty cycle,easy control.If you have any way to get hyd. give it some thought.Junk yards seem to always have big old pto winches around too hard for the average person to hook up.A real winch small gas engine and alot of cable, yard and load.Frank C.
Thanks guys for the info.
I mounted a master disconnect switch in my engine compartment, and hooked it up to the battery with some 2/0 welding cable, then ran the same 2/0 cable from the switch to the back of the truck along the frame. Used a connector I got at a welding shop to hook up the cable to the winch that's mounted on the trailer. I also have to hook up the ground cable on the winch to the bumper of the truck. Let the truck run when I'm winching logs. Never had any ill effects to the truck or battery.
I have a 10,000 lb harbor freight winch mounted in back of my truck. Made a bracket to take the place of my 5th wheel setup. I use a homemade arch that probably cost about $400 use a snatchblock on the arch and pick the logs up one end at a time. I hauled a white oak log that was 34" in diameter and 20ft long had no problem picking it up and bringing it home. Just a thought instead of a trailer for logs that are close and to move them around the mill area. If you dont have a big operation. I am just cutting for myself and a few of my friends. I have been retired for 4 years . Love to saw but don't want to get in a hurry like to take my time if I don't saw but 1 log a day.
Quote from: Jerry on January 06, 2009, 09:32:50 AM
Love to saw but don't want to get in a hurry like to take my time if I don't saw but 1 log a day.
Keep workin' at it Jerry, and you'll eventually get the hang of this retirement thing. I sawed half of a log Sunday and ran out of gas. Went and got gas yesterday, then sawed the other half log this morning. I think I'll take a nap now. ;D 8) 8)
;D ;D ;D ;D
Anybody using a hydraulic winch on a trailer ? How are you running it ? Did you build a hydraulic system on the trailer ??? From what I read they are designed to run on a trucks power steering pump.
bck, the Milemarker winches do run off the truck's PS pump. As far as I know, they're the only ones that do. My winch is mounted behind the cab of my truck, and cannot be removed without disrupting the power steering. The electric solenoids that control it are mounted on the winch itself, and the PS fluid circulates through them all the time. Since I got mine, they have come out with a different system, where the solenoids can be mounted under the hood of the truck, and the hoses going to the winch are not pressurized unless you are using it. This enables you to put quick-disconnect fittings on it and move or remove it. If you can think of those hydraulic lines in the way you would an electrical circuit, the old way was a series circuit, and the new way is a parallel circuit. With the new way, you could easily mount one on your trailer, and just unplug it like you do your lights. ;)
Not all hydraulic winches run off the power steering pump. I had a Ramsey 12,000 lb that the pump mounted on the side of the trany. It had a 4-gallon reservoir that I mounted under the bed, right behind the cab. I mounted that winch inside the frame on the back of the 1-ton truck. When I got the winch, the gear in the pump was right angled for a Chevy trany. Therefore, I had to change the gear to a left angle to mount it on a ford trany.
The reason I mounted the winch on the back of the truck was that the truck was built for mud running, and it takes 50% less pull to winch out thru the tracks that you made then it dose to create new tracks. I rigged up some heavy hangers under the truck that I could hang cable in for when I needed to pull from the front.
In my opinion the hydraulic winches way out perform electric winches. I have seen more cables over heat than I have hoses blow. If you plan to work your winch, be sure to build a heavy roller frame. I have seen the light rollers that come with the winch go flying the first time the winch was used.
Hydraulic winches,If a fella is serious you can mount a hyd. pump with a magnetic clutch off your fan belt,not only use it for the winch but plow and dump body.My old 1 ton ford I ran the pump from trans. pto for dump, winch, and rear firewood loader.With a good long cable you can back the trailer agenst a tree and do some serious yarding.Frank C.
Those belt driven, engine mounted pumps seem like a good way to go, but it is difficult to install them these days with the serpentine belts. ::)
Its fustrating to run out of battery before you get all the logs loaded, happened to me again this week. It's usually not a problem but if I have to drag the logs any distance the battery I have just wont hold up long enough. Plus the electric limits me to one load a day.
I hadnt thought about quick disconnects, like what the jaws-of-life use ?? Guess that would be the easiest and cheapest.
If I switch over maybe I can fix the other fustrating thing about the way I load logs. My winch is mounted solid to the trailer and that means I can only load the trailer from the passenger side. Wonder if instead of the winch mounted on one side of the trailer , I could mount it on the truck and use something like a 3x3x1/4" steel tube with a shackle that could be moved to either side ? Run the cable through the shackle to roll the logs up the ramp? Or instead of a shackle use a roller fairlead ? Think the cable could take the 90degree bend long?
SCSawyer I like your homemade mill.
I don't know a whole lot about this stuff but I would stay away from the small four wheeler type winches. They have plastic gears. They can strip and kill you.
Also, another trailer idea. Not sure how it will turn out, I got an old pole trailer from a power company. I don't know what its rated for but it has dual tires and heavy leaf springs. I got it cheap.
my $.02
jdphish
BCK,
I understand your frustration totally about the electric winch limitations. :(
I mounted my winch on the front of the trailer and use a snatch block on either side as needed to parbuckle logs up. If pulling a smaller log up the back end of the trailer, I may need to use the snatch along the side of the trailer to help direct the angle of pull.
Loading Arch, nice load of 1400 bd/ft of soaking wet cypress and Pine, from the river. 12V deep cycle battery in the neck of the trailer, and, 8000# Warn Winch mounted in the neck of the trailer. Took about 1 hour to load, and 3 loads a day was done several times, once we got the mill, and cut travel time.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10330/newload1.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10330/FDHwaterloader1.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10330/waterloader2.jpg)
The arch helps to drag the logs off the ground a little, to save from tearing up the yards. Build a Low wheel Log Retriever, and take the strain off the winch. Load it ON the Trailer to go get logs, and load it ON the logs, to go home, all using the Arch.
It ain't difficult to do.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10330/fdhlowwheel2.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10330/fdhlowwheel1.jpg)
Wired the power to charge the battery right from the trailer socket on the truck. Ran #10 wire to the battery. Battery would charge from the truck as we traveled to the river and back.
Hydraulic is nice. Electric cost $600.00 including Winch, Battery, and wiring ???
Trailer might be for sale. Contact Oakiemac.
FLADH,
Hey, up north here we use tires on our wheels ;D Good pics.
Ironwood
That was what we had laying around. Only needed it for 2 days. ::) ;D ;D
my guess is it turns right real easy :D :D
FLADH,
That trailer was 1/2 Amish, 1/2 English that's all!!! That is a very rare thing down there, but common round Pa and Ohio. :D ;D (came up with that one all on my own too ::))
Reid, that small wheel device was in Florida. We got some "free" logs, and had to drag them 75 yards, from behind a house. Don't know if you saw the part of the arch we built for our smaller trailer, just like the one on the big trailer.
We used a boat Trailer "Super winch" on that trailer. ::) ::) ;D ;D ;D
This setup has worked great for me, and I no longer need to bring a tractor with me to get logs. I have an 8000lb winch mounted in the bed of my pickup, and the cable runs down to a snatch block in the middle of the trailer and then across and down the opposite side, over the log, back under it, and attaches to the middle of a chain. Both sides of the chain are attached to the sides of the trailer with a span of about 5 feet. I also have ramps down the side that the log rolls up and into the trailer using the winch power, just like some others have explained. I've loaded some REAL big logs and though the winch may strain... I've been successful every time. My only suggestion is to load your smaller logs first, so you're big log's don't have as far to fall and slam into your trailer... if you have one similar to mine.
Here are some I loaded this morning using this method:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/13340/loading3.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/13340/loading1.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/13340/loading2.JPG)
This thread has lots of good info for the log loading I need for salvaging logs. But I need more info on the trailers you guys use. I'm thinking of a setup like 379hammerdown has. It he uses a landscape trailer and I have been thinking of the same - 2 axles w/ brakes. I don't need to haul heavy loads - probably 5000 - 6000 lbs (including the trailer weight). Do landscape trailer side rails hold up to loading as Hammerdown shows? Any other info on trailers for small scale log hauling would be great.
Bob
Bob,its good form to beef up the sides of the trailer your going to roll the logs up,and make up attachments for the ramps to hook to.Myself I have a small but heavy tilt bed trailer and pull them over the fantail,usally with a come-along no batteries to worry about.Have a very heavy attachment at the front of the trailer and can haul a couple of good logs behind my f-150.Frank C.
Quote from: kelLOGg on May 09, 2009, 06:28:37 AM
This thread has lots of good info for the log loading I need for salvaging logs. But I need more info on the trailers you guys use. I'm thinking of a setup like 379hammerdown has. It he uses a landscape trailer and I have been thinking of the same - 2 axles w/ brakes. I don't need to haul heavy loads - probably 5000 - 6000 lbs (including the trailer weight). Do landscape trailer side rails hold up to loading as Hammerdown shows? Any other info on trailers for small scale log hauling would be great.
Bob
Hi,
My trailer that is pictured is a pipe top and its held up extremely well with NO modifications. If it was an angle iron top... then it would need a lot off beefing up.
You mention that you'd only need a trailer with a capacity of 5 - 6k.... meaning two 3500lb axles. I said the same exact thing when I purchased this trailer just for doing this. That was a mistake.
I PROMISE you, 5200lb axles as a minimum will save you a LOT of stress. I actually went and removed my 3500lb axles and replaced them with two 7000lb axles along with 10 ply tires. I wont actually put 14000lbs on there... but I KNOW that I was exceeding the capacity of the original trailer with pretty much every load.
What prompted me to put the higher capacity axles on there? Getting the last load from somewhere... there was one log left. I knew I was very close to max weight... but didn't want to come back so I load it on up too. I figured I'd drive slow... Well, a few miles down the road, when one tire blew, broke all the lugs and rolled away... I was regretting that decision as I puckered up my backside. Luckily I was able to keep the whole thing straight and coast to a stop... but it was REAL close to being a wreck. A few extra bucks when I bought the trailer would have prevented that... Please keep that in mind!
Keith
you will find most guys load logs up a set of ramps and over the side. Kinda rough on the trailer. Another way you might consider is skidding the log lengthwise up the back of the trailer. I have a winch on the front bumper of my pickup, added a trailer hitch on the front. Hook the trailer to the front of the truck, then it's real easy to maneuver the back end of the trailer to the end of the log. Use the winch to skid the log endwise up on the trailer. To get the log up on the trailer, either use a ramp or better yet build an arch up about 4 feet high across the back of the trailer. Attach a pulley and run the winch cable through it. There's some posts on here somewhere about a DanG Deadheader loader. Use the search function to find it.
Kellogg,
If you're starting from scratch, I would keep my eyes open for a deck over the wheels type trailer. It makes unloading logs just as easy as loading them. Plus, loading/unloading pallets and such with fork lifts from the side is possible. The higher deck means the center of gravity is higher, which feels a little different with a tall load, but I haven't had any troubles yet.
Another thing I like about my trailer is that it's only twelve feet long. Lots of my logs come from back yards and tight spaces. This makes manuvering around easier than with a 16 footer. Plus, I cut all my logs shorter than 12' anyway.
One feature I would like to add are some legs that drop down from the rear for when I dead pull big logs up the back. This would put less strain on the tongue. Now, I just use a block of wood to keep the back end up.
There are lots of great methods for loading logs in this thread. Many thanks from a rookie log handler.
But you folks who winch these heavy logs up onto your trailers with high sides - how do you get the logs out when you get home?
Thanks for the feedback. It gave me enough to chew on to make my plans. I know will get (or make) a 12 foot trailer because I foresee manuvering in tight spaces too. I've been known to haul a log as as short as 4 feet. (In fact my photo on the FF profile page is a maple crotch just that long.) And I will have the pipe top rails, too - in fact, I saw a landscape trailer pass me today and I said "Hey! that's like Hammerdown's trailer". The axle weight I will have to mull over. I can certainly appreciate not having to make 2 trips when one could do but I will have to seriously assess just how much hauling I will do. Thanks again
I would go w/ 8 bolt axles for sure, AND deck over. Some deck overs have steel plates instead of wood over the tire area to enable them to be lower to the ground, I need to do that w/ this one, it will be 4" lower. Additionally, I use Goodyear "G" tires they are full steel cased tires and have little to NO sway when heavily loaded (common occurence ;)). It's not me in the pics.
Ironwood
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11262/oIMG_2137.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11262/oIMG_2146.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11262/Obigoaklogs1.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11262/OIMG_0434.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11262/Ourbanwalnut3.jpg)
If I had a trailer with sides or fenders that were in the way of parbuckiling, I would mill two or three beams 2-3 inches taller than the sides or fenders and place them front to back width wise across the deck. That way the logs wouldn't crash down into the trailer and you could peavy them right on your mill deck or fork them off the sides when you got home. I suppose you could come up with stakes also, but a good set of chain binders should do you.
Even when you don't care about raising them over the rails or whatever, putting a few 2 or 3" boards crossways on the trailer before loading is a good idea. It is easy to get a chain or choker under the logs to lift them out with a tractor, and the lumpy spots on the logs will not damage the deck of your trailer.
Just wondering if anyone uses or has seen a trailer with a log loader like a WM sawmill would have, seems to me that if it works for a sawmill it would work for a trailer.
If it was built with a loader arm in between a L & a U shape it could unload the logs as well.
Just a thought.
Hilltop,
#$%^ that is a great idea! I had not heard/ thought of that before. :P Learning.
Ironwood
teenswinger built himself one of those side loaders for his trailer. It's pretty slick. :) He uses a hand operated hydraulic lift for loading.
Quote from: jim blodgett on May 09, 2009, 10:22:49 AM
But you folks who winch these heavy logs up onto your trailers with high sides - how do you get the logs out when you get home?
Build the sawmill the same height as the trailer and you will only have to roll log @3'
I agree with 5200 axles minimum. Having the trailer floor higher than the top of tires really helps me.
Similar to some other guys on here. Here is what I use. Simple winch off an old truck (8000lb) run by a small honda engine driving thru an old lawn tractor transaxle. Winch logs up ramps by rocking log with cant hook. I use a rope on the winch belt-tightener clutch handle to work winch from rear of trailer when I am alone. Works even better if I have help. We have also winch logs in from a back yard that we couldn't drive in with my small log arch pulled by the winch. We don't have much money here, but have lots of fun! ;)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/13643/trailerwinch.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/13643/trailerwinch1.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/13643/trailer1.jpg)
Have a great day!
Quote from: metalspinner on May 11, 2009, 07:59:00 AM
teenswinger built himself one of those side loaders for his trailer. It's pretty slick. :) He uses a hand operated hydraulic lift for loading.
The one that I built is basically a copy of the woodmizer loader arms on there hydraulic mills.
If one was going to do it more often he could hook it up to a hydraulic pump run by a small engine.
Sorry no pic. got dial up.
Quote from: bandmiller2 on May 09, 2009, 07:49:04 AM
I have a small but heavy tilt bed trailer and pull them over the fantail Frank C.
Frank,
Do you have pics of your trailer?
Bob
Quote from: DanG on January 06, 2009, 02:41:08 PM
Quote from: Jerry on January 06, 2009, 09:32:50 AM
Love to saw but don't want to get in a hurry like to take my time if I don't saw but 1 log a day.
Keep workin' at it Jerry, and you'll eventually get the hang of this retirement thing. I sawed half of a log Sunday and ran out of gas. Went and got gas yesterday, then sawed the other half log this morning. I think I'll take a nap now. ;D 8) 8)
lol
Jim my wife and I were in your neck of the woods back in October. We were in Bryson City. We absolutely loved it. We're already planning a go back hopefully next year.
Quote from: dean herring on December 27, 2017, 08:43:00 PM
Jim my wife and I were in your neck of the woods back in October. We were in Bryson City. We absolutely loved it. We're already planning a go back hopefully next year.
PM me next time around and I'll open the gate for ya!
I've been lucky as most of the time loggers have loaded my trailer or truck for me for a $20 or so, but I've loaded some on my trailer by my self by lagging a board on the end of the log and lifting it with a handy man jack. then put a round under it. went I pull it toward the trailer with my winch the end comes up and over the end of trailer. I've loaded some big logs up to 20 plus feet. Usually only can get 4 or 5 on before I poop out.
I have not tried this, but you guys that use a low deck utility trailer car type trailer and a winch should try it sometime.
My thought is to take an old junk truck wheel and put it in front of the log with your winch line over the top of it, I almost bet the log would ride up over it with no jacking or hang ups either.
With a little scrap metal you can make a loader...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04344~1.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1514721423)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC04360~1.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1514721480)
This works way better than I ever thought it would, I have a 8000lb warn 12v winch and the drill steel roller makes it easier. I can unplug and remove the trailer tail lights when loading/unloading (learned after breaking them off 2x) You can either unload by using the snatch block and winch or just chain the logs to a tree and drive away or lift them off using the backhoe.(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36122/IMG_0801.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1514723324)(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36122/IMG_0781.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1514723078)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/33477/DSCN0810.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1465746429)
With a 12.000 pound winch this works darn good for me
I would go with the biggest winch you can afford, just in case you ever need the extra power. I went with a 12,000 lb. winch. I don't think it is necessary to be that big but i like the comfort of knowing it can handle most anything. For my rig, I wish the trailer frame was stouter, but making sure to put block supports under concerned areas has made sure nothing has faltered. I also made a hitch at the front of my trailer frame so I could easily take the winch off and store it. Things like to walk away in my neighborhood, which is a shame.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/44651/20170726_182015.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1514748969)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/44651/20171027_161634.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1514749025)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/44651/20170825_171637.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1514749074)
Anyhow, I think with a little ingenuity you ought to be able to come up with something that works for you. I spent alot of time looking at posts and threads like this one to see what folks were doing and what worked for them and tailoring it to what I had to work with rather than vying for an exact copy. Really have enjoyed this thread.
Drarnold, I enlarged the area where the arch connects to the trailer and it looks like the arch connects to a bracket that is attached to the trailer. I think I see a pin that can be pulled out to disconnect it all. But most of all it doesn't look like you use a very heavy gauge metal. Are you happy with the way it handles heaver logs?
I use a 12K winch for Parbuckling. After the winch is used for a period of time, the battery weakens and we have use jumper cables from the truck. My plan to add a gas engine and single pole alternator to maintain a charge on the battery. Seems like a lot of equipment. I use to use a simple hand cranked windlass rig to parbuckle a 24 inch log onto my trailer.
50 Acre Jim the brackets and arch are made of 3/16" 2x3 tubing and the ears the pins slide through are 1/2 plate steel. I am no metal worker but I supposed it was stout enough to handle most logs. I haven't run into any problems with it so far. No bending anywhere I have observed. The receiver for the winch is lighter at only 1/8 but I haven't had any issues with that component either. I was more concerned with the trailer frame flexing or bending but with some well placed blocking and dogleg jacks it has held up pretty good.
Running a 16,5 Warn on my setup. It will kill a battery real fast...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/162C500~0.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1514764164)
I have a 12000lbs winch that mounts in a receiver hitch tube on the front of the trailer, so I can put it on any of my trailers or mount in in the hitches on any of my pickups. The log arch just sits in any of the stake pockets on the trailer--- I can put a bolt in the bottom hole of the arch mount if I want to move the trailer around with the winch line disconnected from the arch
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/22142/IMG_0293.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1478527174)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/22142/IMG_0240.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1465836998) at a landing while pulling logs out of a pile of timber.
I use a 12,000 pound winch mounted on the tongue of the trailer. I use ramps on either side and use the Parbuckle techniques with a snatch block on the opposite side of the trailer. I could fold my trailer in half with this thing but it rolls logs up with ease. Pretty pleased with the setup. I tried the flip bar from the back thats a pain in the butt. I like to roll them on from the side just like you would with the cable setup on a bandmill.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35477/100_0641.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1414725653)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35477/20171207_141059.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1514832819)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35477/20171207_141027.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1514832851)
Weather has been so bad I haven't been able to cut wood or work on the solar kiln. But as a last resort, I started building my log lifter. Or should I say, I had someone with welding skills start building it. Also added some steel rails to the sides of the trailer to protect (what's left of) my fenders.
Anyhow, here it is so far. Need to mount the winch and fix a few other small issues.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/46073/DSC00245.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1517705739)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/46073/DSC00243.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1517705739)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/46073/DSC00241.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1517705741)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/46073/DSC00240.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1517705742)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/46073/DSC00239.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1517705743)
Nice work Jim! That looks very stout...
Looks good--- that's gonna work pretty slick for ya.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/16762/IMG_E7494.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1530149061)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/16762/IMG_E7496.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1530149056)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/16762/IMG_E7500.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1530149071)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/16762/IMG_E7502.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1530149069)