Carbide Chains

SawTroll · July 28, 2014, 01:58:11 AM

Quote from: d1hamby on July 28, 2014, 01:21:03 AM
....
I use one for my MS362 and it makes it possible to keep working through the wood even after totally burying my whole bar in the sand.

A much better option is of course to keep the chain out of the sand - why is it there in the first Place?

d1hamby · July 28, 2014, 02:13:25 AM

Video of new carbide chain
http://youtu.be/QZ8fp9WNVlo

d1hamby · July 28, 2014, 02:17:38 AM

Quote from: SawTroll on July 28, 2014, 01:58:11 AM
Quote from: d1hamby on July 28, 2014, 01:21:03 AM
....
I use one for my MS362 and it makes it possible to keep working through the wood even after totally burying my whole bar in the sand.

A much better option is of course to keep the chain out of the sand - why is it there in the first Place?

I just wanted to try it to see what would happen while I wasn't too deep in the field. Everything worked out fine.

Andyshine77 · July 28, 2014, 03:16:29 AM

You'll destroy more than the chain doing that. The bar itself, bar sprocket, drive sprocket. You could also get some sand in the clutch drum.

husky2100 · July 28, 2014, 05:14:19 AM

I know there supposly good chains i had one designed for rescue saws just make sure you lock that thing up at night.i only used mine once in some really dirty wood that was more dirt than wood and I finished up for the day came back to the house for the night i was going to get it sharpend and when i left to go help my buddy fix his saw and it was gone some one just took it right off my work bench and walked right out.

d1hamby · July 28, 2014, 08:07:05 AM

Quote from: Andyshine77 on July 28, 2014, 03:16:29 AM
You'll destroy more than the chain doing that. The bar itself, bar sprocket, drive sprocket. You could also get some sand in the clutch drum.

You know you're right, I don't recommend doing that at all. I just was playing around and wanted to see where the sand collected if the chain got in the sand and then it was used in clean wood. I did find out that the sprocket I have cleans itself out really well and there wasn't any sand in my clutch drum. The bar on the other hand had a lot of wear and I scraped out the grove and saw there was still a lot of sand there. I had to redress the bar and wash it out. The chain was fine and it still cut quite well. After oiling it still works very smooth and I still use it for small trees and bucking.

beenthere · July 28, 2014, 11:05:59 AM

?? Is that pole pruner what you use the carbide chain on, and for small trees and bucking?

Do you have carbide chain on your other saws?

John Mc · July 30, 2014, 08:23:29 AM

Quote from: d1hamby on July 27, 2014, 12:04:43 AM
Hopefully everyone has seen this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ooAlNzRwndg

If my regular steel chain cut that slowly, I'm WAY past due for a sharpening. I could hand saw through that log faster than that.

d1hamby · August 01, 2014, 06:57:54 PM

Quote from: John Mc on July 30, 2014, 08:23:29 AM
Quote from: d1hamby on July 27, 2014, 12:04:43 AM
Hopefully everyone has seen this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ooAlNzRwndg

If my regular steel chain cut that slowly, I'm WAY past due for a sharpening. I could hand saw through that log faster than that.

That would even be more fun to watch.

John Mc · August 02, 2014, 09:25:02 AM

I meant to compare my steel chain to the steel chain in the video.

The carbide chain actually did better than I expected. I've only made a coupe of cuts with a carbide chain (a chain with bits of carbide attached, not one that is "carbide coated"). A friend had one and let me try it. THat one seems slow and was throwing most dust than chips.

stihlmania · September 01, 2014, 07:07:52 AM

I have Stihl RD chains for my 660 and 044. I use them for dirty wood mostly as they will cut slower than regular, well sharpened chain. But I have cut through rocks, nails, barb wire, you name it, and the carbide chains have only lost 3 cutters after 8 years of use. My suggestion, for all chains, is to use bar and chain lengths that are matched to the chain oiler output of the saw to prevent premature bar wear and chain stretch. Basically that is the manufacturers recommended bar length. Use a shorter bar if it can do the job and your chain and bar will thank you.
I live on the Guadalupe River on the Texas hill country and most of my work is for flood damaged trees which have embedded rocks and limestone. Very abrasive cutting, regular chains will not last 30 seconds before being dulled. I do find almost every tree I am contracted to remove has multiple cuts in it before someone gave up!

LeeB · September 01, 2014, 07:25:28 AM

Sure would love to get ahold of some of those monster cypress growing along the banks. Beautiful trees. Wonder how old they are?

stihlmania · September 03, 2014, 04:04:32 AM

Lee, the last cypress I removed was a complete tree with roots wedged into a group of live oaks, a victim of the 02 flood, which I cut up in 2008. 56" diameter trunk, I was able to count 175 rings on a cut just above the the first main root...

LeeB · September 03, 2014, 04:24:46 AM

I never measured any of them, was too busy floating, but I seem to remember some of them being 8 ft in diameter or more. Real beauties. Would never think of taking one down on purpose, but boy what a load of lumber one would make.

d1hamby · September 23, 2014, 07:35:48 PM

Quote from: John Mc on August 02, 2014, 09:25:02 AM
I meant to compare my steel chain to the steel chain in the video.

The carbide chain actually did better than I expected. I've only made a coupe of cuts with a carbide chain (a chain with bits of carbide attached, not one that is "carbide coated"). A friend had one and let me try it. THat one seems slow and was throwing most dust than chips.

Carbide chains do get dull too. Depending on the way it's sharpened it will cut macaroni or dust just like any other chain.