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Started by GeneWengert-WoodDoc, February 11, 2013, 06:15:47 AM

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SwampDonkey

I still say on a pull with a saw you have less damage and you have more control. Any time you try to be careful, even with a western saw, you still draw the saw toward you to minimize damage and light touches on the push forward. I always do anyway, that's when being careful and gentle. ;D Both saws require down pressure or you would be sawing air. The damage is always to the underside and sides. And as I said before I agree with all the extras to. It's not just the way you saw. It's a combination. I have cut a lot of wood with both and the Japanese wins on a fine cut, every time. Just take a piece of dowel and use both saws and see the obvious difference. Night and day.
"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

GeneWengert-WoodDoc

This is from an article that will be in SAWMILL & WOODLOT called "Sawmill Genealogy."



At some point between the 9th and 5th centuries B.C., the Romans began to use iron and steel for manufacturing saws.  Sometime between 500 B.C. And 50 A.D., these iron saws had teeth that were raked, so that the saw now only cut in one direction; the rake was toward the handle, so the saw cut on the "pull."  Saws were not strong enough (too floppy) to also cut on the "push."  The raked saw, which meant faster cutting, was used for ripping wood and not crosscutting. Cross cutting was done with saws using teeth without rake.

The idea of setting the teeth to make the kerf (the cutting groove) wider than the saw to eliminate binding of the saw developed within the same time period.
Gene - Author of articles in Sawmill & Woodlot and books: Drying Hardwood Lumber; VA Tech Solar Kiln; Sawing Edging & Trimming Hardwood Lumber. And more

Dodgy Loner

Quote from: Jay C. White Cloud on February 18, 2013, 01:05:01 PM
Sorry Doc,

I was going back to edit what I wrote, but you beat me to it.  I like working in green wood or air dried, as I said.  However, Doc is more than correct, there is absolutely no difference between AD and KD would as long as the drying process of the "kilning," was done well.

Another way to look at it, just about anyone can AD wood.  I find very few KD wood that is of the quality I am accustom to in the wood I work, that could be me, but seems to be the case with many Furniture Makers and Luthiers I know as well.

I agree completely with this point. If you didn't personally kiln dry your wood, then you have no way of knowing if it was done properly or not. Air-drying is hard to mess up, which is why many fine furniture makers prefer it. A couple of bad experiences with poorly kiln-dried wood is all it takes for someone to form their prejudices against it.
"There is hardly anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse and sell a little cheaper, and the people who consider price only are this man's lawful prey." -John Ruskin

Any idiot can write a woodworking blog. Here's mine.

Jay C. White Cloud

QuoteIf you didn't personally kiln dry your wood, then you have no way of knowing if it was done properly or not.

Thanks D.Loner, that said it for me best, I'm going to use that, with your permission, because that sums it up perfectly... ;D
"To posses an open mind, is to hold a key to many doors, and the ability to created doors where there were none before."

"When it is all said and done, they will have said they did it themselves."-teams response under a good leader.

GeneWengert-WoodDoc

I would add to D Loner's excellent comment

That also is why all major and many smaller wood products manufacturers...furniture, cabinets, flooring, caskets, etc...run their own kilns--so they get the quality that they want and need.
Gene - Author of articles in Sawmill & Woodlot and books: Drying Hardwood Lumber; VA Tech Solar Kiln; Sawing Edging & Trimming Hardwood Lumber. And more

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