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which of these 60-75cc saws would you buy?

Started by pdbrandt, September 10, 2018, 03:42:38 PM

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pdbrandt

Hello all.  This is my first post so here's a quick intro – I'm a tree climber and own a small (1-person so far) tree care company in central NC.  I focus on tree care, pruning heritage trees, lightning protection systems, etc and have avoided removals for the most part.  Since I don't do many removals I've been able to get away with owning just two saws - both Huskys - an in tree saw and a 46cc farm/ranch saw. I've had enough jobs where I maxed out my 46cc saw that I've finally admitted that I need to get a bigger one.  I want to stick with Husqvarna and my local saw shop has three 60cc plus saws for sale: 
 
1) Husq 562XP. 60cc, 4.7hp, he is asking $475
2) Husq 575XP. 74cc, 5.4hp, asking $575  
3) Husq 365 Special. 65cc, 4.6hp, asking $475 
 
I'm looking for a saw that can easily handle a 28" bar and I anticipate that it will be used for a few jobs per month.  Which saw would you buy if you were limited to these 3 and were on a budget?  The prices all seem about $50-75 high and I'm sure I can talk him down a bit.  
 
Thanks,
 
Patrick

Greyhound

I don't have any advice but I'm curious what others have to say. Good luck.

slider

Welcome pd . I don't know much about husq saws ,mostly stihl here but i do quiet a bit of removals . I have a older 361 with a 20 in bar that has been a work horse. The saw is 10 years old so i bought a new ms 362 20 in bar . I thought about a longer bar for the new saw and then got a deal on a ms 461 32 in bar . I get into some good size trees here from time to time and in not so good places so that 461 is always with me on jobs where i need it. 
 
Two years ago i did a good size removal for a friend and he traded me a brand new 880 for the work . It has a 36 in bar and is nice on a big stump but i never use it much. The saw is fine but too heavy for me . 

Good luck on your purchase and we wish you well .
al glenn

barbender

575 if you're going to run a 28" bar. These are used saws, I take it? I've read about the 575 having a weak crank bearing I think, but I don't have any personal experience with it.
Too many irons in the fire

barbender

Actually, that 365 would handle a 28" ok with skiptooth chain, I used to have the Jred version I ran a lot with a 24" on it.
Too many irons in the fire

HolmenTree

Welcome Patrick,
I'm a one man operation tree service owner too but I do mostly removals big and small.

My go to saw is a 562XP-20" that I bought new 5 years ago.
Still going strong and run a 24" on it for backup.
I think the 562 with 24" is plenty of saw if your used to 46cc saws. The 562 is factory rated for a 28" .

For backup I got a new MS261CM' 16" beautiful little saw.
Big wood I got two Stihl 066s that run 20" 25" 28" 36"
Husqvarna 562XP and Stihl MS362CM are the best 60cc saws out there
.
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

sawguy21

The prices don't seem out of line from a dealer. He will want to make sure they are in top shape if he has to stand behind them. I have only run the 365 then only for a short time in softwood, you would probably want skip with a 28" bar in hardwood to keep the revs up. I can't comment on the other two.
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

DelawhereJoe

With that hurricane coming your way you may want to get a new saw and skip any possible problems that a used saw may have. Any 60cc+  pro saw should do anything you want, Echo's cs 800p will run a 20-36" bar and be cheaper then its competitors in its cc size and hp class. I've heard that the 575 & 576 have had air leak problems in the past causing them to run lean and burn up so you may want to avoid them.
WD-40, DUCT TAPE, 024, 026, 362c-m, 041, homelite xl, JD 2510

Huntaholic

Ok, first a little info on me, Im self employed in the forestry business, (logger) and have been all my life. Ive ran mostly husqvarnas all my life. I ran the 372 and its earlier ancestors up until several years ago when Husqvarna discontinued them for some stupid reason. I then switched over to the 575 series saws and never went back to the 372s after they started making them again. The 575 saw was replaced by the 576 and Ive continued to run them primarily to present day. All of these people saying this or that about issues with the 575 class saws have never ran them! When it comes to cutting big wood, I prefer the 575/576 to the 372 that everybody loves. The 575/576 WILL outcut the 372 in big wood. I typically get between 4 and 6 million board feet out of a 576 before it needs a major repair. In all the years Ive been running them I don't think Ive ever had one fail prematurely due to a defect.  

Southside

Well, around here you can't touch a 372 for the price of that 575. I am a 372 guy, but have never run a 575, given what others have said, who have run both, I don't think you can go wrong there. 
Franklin buncher and skidder
JD Processor
Woodmizer LT Super 70 and LT35 sawmill, KD250 kiln, BMS 250 sharpener and setter
Riehl Edger
Woodmaster 725 and 4000 planner and moulder
Enough cows to ensure there is no spare time.
White Oak Meadows

Skeans1

I'm a 562 guy but I run a 32 on mine, for years I ran a hopped up 372 it was a great saw till it grew legs one day. One thing I've noticed is the weight difference and anti vibe is much better in the 562. 

HolmenTree

I agree the 562 is the best choice for the OP, ..light , hyper fast powerband and smooth.
Don"t forget the OP is only used to a couple of 46cc farm saws. :o

:)
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

pdbrandt

Quote from: barbender on September 10, 2018, 06:16:47 PM
575 if you're going to run a 28" bar. These are used saws, I take it? I've read about the 575 having a weak crank bearing I think, but I don't have any personal experience with it.
Yup. They are all used saws, but in good condition.  The 575 XP is a 2004 version. The 365 special is 2014 and the 562 XP is a 2016.

pdbrandt

Quote from: HolmenTree on September 10, 2018, 09:16:49 PM
I agree the 562 is the best choice for the OP, ..light , hyper fast powerband and smooth.
Don"t forget the OP is only used to a couple of 46cc farm saws. :o

:)
I'm sure I'll be spoiled quickly by a bigger saw, then will need another one...

ehp

your saying the 365 was made in 2014 ? Where is the decompressure on that saw ? If it is made in 2014 then it should be a 365 XT which is the same saw as the 372 just has the limited transfer covers on it . If that saw is that and in good shape I would take it over the others as they have very little trouble

Maine logger88

Quote from: ehp on September 10, 2018, 10:06:15 PM
your saying the 365 was made in 2014 ? Where is the decompressure on that saw ? If it is made in 2014 then it should be a 365 XT which is the same saw as the 372 just has the limited transfer covers on it . If that saw is that and in good shape I would take it over the others as they have very little trouble
X2! 365xt/2166 is a great saw They have been my main saws for 5 years now
79 TJ 225 81 JD 540B Husky and Jonsered saws

Greenerpastures

Hi
I currently have no Husqvarnas, but had a new 372xp which was a real nice saw.
Out of the three you mention, you have auto-tune and standard carb models,
if you are happy with the standard carb and making adjustments to them then
maybe keep that in mind.

Personalty I would only buy auto tune on a new saw where the warranty would
cover any repairs, electronics are know to deteriorate over time, and the vibes on
a saw could shorten that time, it will not be a cheap fix if the auto tune gives up.
not trying to scare you regarding auto tune, in my opinion the longevity needs to
be proven yet, where as a man that depends on his saw and can't afford a bunch
of cash to throw at repairing auto tune should keep this in mind.
If you have a good paying job to put her straight into that would pay for the saw,
then thats another bonus, at least you would have her paid for in the short term
making other work done a bonus / earner.

I would take the 560p, a good running one has some serious cutting potential and
will get your jobs done without wasting time, the 365 should be reliable,
slower to cut with,  slow reliable and potentioally longer life works for a lot of people
too, though heavier.

Ultimately only you (the OP) will know what suits your needs and way of working.
If the seller will allow you to try the saw for the day, after looking them
over and selecting the best one in your eyes, maybe you could hire it for a day and see how
it performs, the 562 is also a light saw to hold, that is not to be over looked if
you struggle with weight.

In all honesty, in our part of the world we run as small a bar as gets the job
done, one never sees bars like the op mentions on the saws he mentions.
The 575 would thus be a better saw on the longer bars.

Of course there are other saws, I like the Echo, they are usually well priced too,
and the Makita / Dolmar brands, all good saws, if I could not get the size and
weight and price in one model I chose another, never had a Stihl 461, seen
them cut though, and a ported one really tickles my fancy.

In any event, if money is the limiting factor, it will probably matter more
that the OP choses the saw with the lowest hours and best cared for example,
I wish him all the best with what ever he choses.

Upstatewoodchuc

I have to agree with the others here, if that 365 is indeed a 2014, than it's an xt, not a special and an incredible amount of saw for the money. I bought a brand new 365xt in very early 2016 and proceeded to beat it mercilessly for the next two years, it's my go to saw because it can do the work of a little saw, but has the guts to cut big stuff too without working itself to death. Always starts within 2-3 pulls no matter what temperature, and 1 pull once warmed up. All I've done to mine is clean/change air filters, sharpen chains/flip bars, and blow the sawdust out of it. I just recently had to adjust the idle a smidge and that was the first time I've touched it since new.
-Pat
Current collection: Husky 3120xp,  372xp, 365, husky 55, homelite xl12. Michigan 85 wheel loader, Ford 8n with loader and forks. Farmall super C, 1988 international dump truck, John Deere 440ICD dozer, 19ft equipment trailer, 40 ton TSC splitter, modified dieder splitter with 4 way.

barbender

The origjnal 365 was an underrated saw with a nice smooth power delivery.
Too many irons in the fire

John Mc

Quote from: Greenerpastures on September 11, 2018, 07:12:25 AMIn all honesty, in our part of the world we run as small a bar as gets the job done, one never sees bars like the op mentions on the saws he mentions.


What part of the world would that be?

I agree - I typically run 16" bars on my saws, but then 80% or more of what I'm cutting is 16" diameter or less, and 95% is 20" or less. The 16" bar does not come off unless I know I'm going to be doing a significant amount of cutting over 16". I'd rather carry a smaller, lighter saw all day even if it means I occasionally have to do some extra cutting here and there.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

Pulphook

Quote from: John Mc on September 11, 2018, 06:29:11 PM
Quote from: Greenerpastures on September 11, 2018, 07:12:25 AMIn all honesty, in our part of the world we run as small a bar as gets the job done, one never sees bars like the op mentions on the saws he mentions.


What part of the world would that be?

I agree - I typically run 16" bars on my saws, but then 80% or more of what I'm cutting is 16" diameter or less, and 95% is 20" or less. The 16" bar does not come off unless I know I'm going to be doing a significant amount of cutting over 16". I'd rather carry a smaller, lighter saw all day even if it means I occasionally have to do some extra cutting here and there.
Nailed it. My best tool is the brain and body with that "smaller, lighter saw...all day."
Fatigue, decreased capacity for work in any weather with time leads to errors. I don't want it harvesting for hours.
Besides, with a lighter pro saw ( now down to a MS261 ) and a shorter 16" bar I can do up to +/- 24" DBH trees safely and efficiently.
The 16" bar makes it easy to touch up with a stump vise in the woodlot when touching rot, dirt, barbed wire, or the usual round in the trunk.
I'm no pro, but do take 6-8 cords out each year plus blowdowns and trail work for local groups. The 261 fits nicely in a backpack.
The "world" is Downeast Maine.
Two wood stoves ( Jotul Rangely ,Jotul Oslo ) heating 99 44/100%
24/7. No central heat. 6-8 cords firewood from the woodlot /year. Low low tech: ATV with trailer, 3 saws, 2 electric splitters, a worn pulphook, peavy, climbing line for skidding, Fiskars 27, an old back getting older.

OlJarhead

I have a 576XP and sadly had to have it completely rebuilt under warranty.  It was running lean and no amount of adjusting (by the local Husky repair folks) would stop it from burning up.  Sent it off and got it back running nicely.  It's still going well but I'm not too keen on pushing it.
2016 LT40HD26 and Mahindra 5010 W/FEL WM Hundred Thousand BF Club Member

Greenerpastures

Quote from: John Mc on September 11, 2018, 06:29:11 PM
Quote from: Greenerpastures on September 11, 2018, 07:12:25 AMIn all honesty, in our part of the world we run as small a bar as gets the job done, one never sees bars like the op mentions on the saws he mentions.
Hi John Mc
Am in Ireland

Forestry wise there are no real big trees here, old oak and larch is getting hard 
to find, but when you do the larger bar is the way to go,
though it is always safer to only go for what the body can handle,
age soon creeps in and has its impact on what weight we can handle,
I think it is is more important to haul only what feels comfortable with regardless of tree size,
a young fit person will obviously handle more power and weight safely, all else being equal.

Regarding the 575, read elswhere they are not selling, they are a pound heavier than a 372
Husqvarna, and that 372 cuts better, they will only sell in numbers when the 372 is out of production,
as it will not meet the emissions criteria, I would avoid adding weight to my day, thats just me.

What part of the world would that be?

I agree - I typically run 16" bars on my saws, but then 80% or more of what I'm cutting is 16" diameter or less, and 95% is 20" or less. The 16" bar does not come off unless I know I'm going to be doing a significant amount of cutting over 16". I'd rather carry a smaller, lighter saw all day even if it means I occasionally have to do some extra cutting here and there.

Greenerpastures

Quote from: OlJarhead on September 12, 2018, 09:11:13 AM
I have a 576XP and sadly had to have it completely rebuilt under warranty.  It was running lean and no amount of adjusting (by the local Husky repair folks) would stop it from burning up.  Sent it off and got it back running nicely.  It's still going well but I'm not too keen on pushing it.
Sorry to hear that, very disappointing to spend ones cash and have to go through
such a repair, I know a lot of people who had melt downs and they were messed
about something chronic, shop blaming them and refusing to sort the saws, pleased
you at least got sorted, I am stumped though that this sort of thing is still happening
with the time they have had to fine tune this system, will it ever be fixed or are they
nursing it along until the come out with fuel injection systems, hard to beat an ordinary
carb, they could have been smart enough to enable the fitting of a normal carb and just
let the auto-tune handle the spark timing, I for one would be swapping in a carb if this was
the case, wonder who is really to blame for lumbering us with this epa rubbish, did the epa
push the manufacturers, did the manufacturers push the epa, or are they in together so we
have to keep replacing our machines thus making someone else rich.

HolmenTree

Quote from: Pulphook on September 12, 2018, 06:33:21 AM
Quote from: John Mc on September 11, 2018, 06:29:11 PM
Quote from: Greenerpastures on September 11, 2018, 07:12:25 AMIn all honesty, in our part of the world we run as small a bar as gets the job done, one never sees bars like the op mentions on the saws he mentions.


What part of the world would that be?

I agree - I typically run 16" bars on my saws, but then 80% or more of what I'm cutting is 16" diameter or less, and 95% is 20" or less. The 16" bar does not come off unless I know I'm going to be doing a significant amount of cutting over 16". I'd rather carry a smaller, lighter saw all day even if it means I occasionally have to do some extra cutting here and there.
Nailed it. My best tool is the brain and body with that "smaller, lighter saw...all day."
Fatigue, decreased capacity for work in any weather with time leads to errors. I don't want it harvesting for hours.
Besides, with a lighter pro saw ( now down to a MS261 ) and a shorter 16" bar I can do up to +/- 24" DBH trees safely and efficiently.
The 16" bar makes it easy to touch up with a stump vise in the woodlot when touching rot, dirt, barbed wire, or the usual round in the trunk.
I'm no pro, but do take 6-8 cords out each year plus blowdowns and trail work for local groups. The 261 fits nicely in a backpack.
The "world" is Downeast Maine.

Actually with a 90° open face cut (humbolt on bottom cut) you can cut a much larger diameter tree then 32" with a 16" bar.
Here my 1986 Stihl 064 owner manual explains it quite well.

Also a video of Soren Ericcson using a early 064 with a 18" or 20" b/c making a good presentation.
I got a pile of  Soren's 1980's safety instruction VCR tapes.
This one I put on YouTube (thanks to my 11 year old daughter :D) by my phone recording off the TV screen.
Good thing I kept my old VCR :)



 

 
https:/youtu.be/pLAvjw7lb9A
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

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