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Wisconsin cabin build - just getting started

Started by dgrover13, November 21, 2017, 11:33:15 PM

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barbender

I would suggest opening up the ends of your tarp to let some air movement in there. I'm also of the persuasion that the best place for the logs to season is in the wall, under a roof. You've definately did everything right for getting them stacked to season, though👍🏼
Too many irons in the fire

barbender

Also, as I look at the picture of your stacks, the logs aren't very far from the ground. Make sure they are at least not touching, in other words air can get around the bottoms.
Too many irons in the fire

thecfarm

Looking good!!! Until the tarps came out.  :o  I would not use them at all!!! It just keeps the mositure in. The tin was fine.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Don P

I tend to agree, the tarps look like a compost bag, but it is getting cold, fungi go dormant. That pile will last till spring and then it needs to be higher, stickered between layers, get some air in there, that will not last 2 years as is.

Pines are growing and pumping anytime the sun is shining and they aren't frozen, right through the winter. Sap does not go down, the wood is no drier. The starch to sugar ratio changes through the year. Since both are food as is cellulose, there are critters designed to feed on all parts at any stage. Working in the heat the wood will blue and the bugs will be racing you, there is good reason for working in the cold. Poisoning the food with borate was the real trick though.

Madison is a land of fantasy in a world of reality  :D. WI runs its own code so confirm things. Prescriptively, without an engineer, buildings now need to be built from and on braced walls. A pier and beam foundation then is an engineered type of foundation, there is no wall bracing the pier, it is subject to overturning or sliding when the building is laterally loaded from wind or seismic. The lightest prescriptive braced foundation is a pier and curtain wall where bracing walls can be as thin as 4" between the load bearing piers. I've worked on and around them and see no advantage over a typical full perimeter foundation. In jurisdictions where piers are allowed or where the inspector turns a blind eye, the physics is the same. Those foundations have been squeezed out and into engineer land for good reason, they have a long and rich history of failure. To be honest there aren't many people who can set and adequately tamp a decent fencepost that will stay upright, much less design and install a pier with a 25' tall house on top. Most people who build that way end up revisiting the foundation later, when there is a house above it.

Sketchup is just illuminated paper and pencil, they work fine for planning, it is harder for us to collaborate that way but taking a picture of a stick scratching in the dirt works   :)

dgrover13

I put on the tin - but with lots of holes in the tin - I felt like the tarps would provide needed protection from the rain/snow.

The logs are raised off ground - although only by 6 inches in spots.  On a slope.

The purpose is not to season but preserve until I can start my butt/pass build. 

I will take the tarps off in the spring however. 

What do I do to prevent blue?  I thought my bora would help with that.
-Darren

Don P

Blue is tough, borate really doesn't prevent it. I think it helps but it sure doesn't stop it. If the sapwood dries below about 25% before spring then it can't grow, kind of doubtful. They old handscribers used diesel which will poison the food and so does work. Schroeder's has or did have a spray solution that was supposed to prevent bluestain, I've never tried it.

I don't think you are preserving when it gets warm in that tight pile, things will begin to head south.

ljmathias

Only way I've found to keep the bluestain out is to cut live trees (not lightning kill or beetle dead) and get it under cover right away with good air movement around it: dry the surface quick and the stain bug can't get a foothold. Course, I'm just guessing on that. I do know the logs I've had in the car port since Katrina were cut and stored that way. Been pulling out a bunch to cut for siding for the daughter and SIL's new house- clean and bright yellow.

LJ
LT40, Long tractor with FEL and backhoe, lots of TF tools, beautiful wife of 50 years plus 4 kids, 5 grandsons AND TWO GRANDDAUGHTERS all healthy plus too many ideas and plans and not enough time and energy

dgrover13

First thing I am taking away from the conversation -

-Get the logs stacked differently with more air.  i have them all stacked too tight.  Got it - I am assuming I'll be ok for the winter.  I am planning to break ground in spring and start building with them.  Would I need to restack them right away in spring even if I am pulling them off by May/June?

-Should I spray a sapstain control now? 
-Darren

dgrover13

Also - here is a diagram of first draft floor plan 32x32.

Note from Admin:  pictures must be in gallery

Just a first draft - floor plan is already changing.

Note from Admin:  pictures must be in gallery

-Darren

Don P

If your life is anything like mine May will turn rapidly into August. If you can't make time to restack it keep an eye of the stack. If water gets in and cannot rapidly get out of the wood it will begin to grow things where the wood is touching. If you begin to see funk or discoloration it just moved to the front of the list. Yes to sapstain control now, those bluestain hyphae are burrowing whenever its warm enough. Read up on parbuckling over the winter, there are several threads. It will serve you well when stacking walls as well if you get in a bind. You can stack higher with less effort than dragging without much of a change in the rigging.

Go back to the drawing board, your sketchup is only 1 line thick, draw in the full thickness of walls, floors, roof, those thicknesses can really make a difference. Mouse around on your sketchup toolbar and find the "offset" button. For walls I'll draw the perimeter wall line then click offset and pull in  an offset inside line however thick the wall is. The next button to its left is push/pull, click it and pull the wall up vertically. Draw the roof in elevation, offset rafter thickness, clean up the lines and pull the roof across the drawing. This gives the basic blocked out outlines quickly. Is the prow on the roof still evolving, its catywhumpus?

Whoops, looks like the software rejected your links, try posting the files in the forum plan repository;
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/board,79.0.html

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