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how much can a hobby mill handel

Started by NSwoodworker, February 22, 2012, 01:52:44 PM

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tcsmpsi

Yes, I find the mill being 'up there where it's supposed to be' a much more efficient proposal.   ;D
This is another simple log deck (more of that "evolution" I had mentioned earlier  :D)  The angled beams to the ground help to lift/roll a log up on it that is a bit large/heavy for the tractor/fel to safely lift on it.  The loading arms are angle iron, notched on the ends that sit on the mill tracks for level and stability and bolted through the beams for pivoting.



 

From the 'other end', I have a covered slab rack set up to saw in 16" lengths for firewood.  Where the boards are being stacked, is right beside the primary drying rack, or they are also easily loaded on to the fel forks from there to move to other stacks, trailer, etc.
If I choose, I can take 4 bolts from the feet of the jacks, back up to the mill and leave with it. 



 

Just realized the other pic didn't show the angled beams to the ground.   :D   ::)



 

And, it all has way more than 'paid its way'.   
\\\"In the end, it is a moral question as to whether man applies what he has learned or not.\\\" - C. Jung

thecfarm

About buying logs,I have been out of that for so long I don't really know.But i do know you will get some logs that will be real good and some real bad. Someone will have to scale them,or that's how I think they do it where you are.Meaning looking at it to see if the log is a #1,meaning a good log with hardly any defeats or a #4 meaning alot of defeats.Some states do it by weight.Than you will need a place for the truck to come in and turn around or not go too far into your place. some guys don't mind backing up with a trailer some do. Maybe a straight job will come in.
I can not say it enough,
DO NOT LAOD LOGS ONTO YOUR MILL WITH A TRACTOR!!!!
Unless you are going to upgrade to a big mill. Nothing a matter with a small mill,but drop a log onto a small mill and you may have to reline the whole thing.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Spalted Dog

Those are some sweet setups.  Great thread!  I have been working on the support equip before I get a mill.  Have been debating on starting with a manual mill or hydraulic.  This helps me thinking that a manual may work better than I thought.  My biggest concern of manual vs hyd is log turner and of course price. 
The older I get the less I used to know.

nas

NSwoodworker
  A tri-axle log truck with a pup should be around 8-10,000 bf.  It could be a little less for hardwood.  I think your gov't figure is for just a truck.

Nick
Better to sit in silence and have everyone think me a fool, than to open my mouth and remove all doubt - Napoleon.

Indecision is the key to flexibility.
2002 WM LT40HDG25
stihl 066
Husky 365
1 wife
6 Kids

customsawyer

Your Bf number is a bit low for a truck load of logs for this area. Our trucks haul around 50,000 LBS to a truck load. I cut in the 5000 bf range from the 25 tons of logs. This being said when you get in a truck load of logs you have to be able to unload them. Most truckers don't like the idea of you pulling the logs off the back with your tractor. Other than that listen to WDH as I have taught him all I know and he still has a lot to learn. :D
Two LT70s, Nyle L200 kiln, 4 head Pinheiro planer, 30" double surface Cantek planer, Lucas dedicated slabber, Slabmizer, and enough rolling stock and chainsaws to keep it all running.
www.thecustomsawyer.com

Lud

Jake,
          "You're a hoot, that's what you are........"
Simplicity mill, Ford 1957 Golden Jubilee 841 Powermaster, 40x60 bankbarn, left-handed

hackberry jake

The real tricky part is when you have nothing but hillside to work with.
https://www.facebook.com/TripleTreeWoodworks

EZ Boardwalk Jr. With 20hp Honda, 25' of track, and homemade setworks. 32x18 sawshed. 24x40 insulated shop. 30hp kubota with fel. 1978 Massey ferguson 230.

nas

around here all the trucks are self-loading.
Better to sit in silence and have everyone think me a fool, than to open my mouth and remove all doubt - Napoleon.

Indecision is the key to flexibility.
2002 WM LT40HDG25
stihl 066
Husky 365
1 wife
6 Kids

WDH

"A man should keep learning his whole life in order not to stagnate".

From, "A Quote by WDH".  Published February 23, 2012  :).

Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

Retired-Jack

A group of us hired a sawyer to saw lumber in a variety of dimensions, he had a hydraulic wood mizer Lt-40. The sawyer did not have to load a log, remove the slab, or remove and stack lumber.
10 hours $55 an hour and we scaled the lumber at 3000-3500 board feet. Changed blade 4 times
The hydraulic mill can load the logs. But someone still has to manually remove the slabs and lumber, which is a lot of work carrying the waste product..
If you buy logs and saw them into boards to build a garage it would take time to cut the boards. Then to nail up the boards to your building will take time. If you are doing everything yourself well, it is your time. But if you have to hire a carpenter to nail up the boards the cost of labor would be high. You might be better off to buy sheets of chipboard.
I think it would be cheaper to buy 2x4 at building supply stores when they have sales. Your sawmill costs are gas, blade sharpening, time, helper and logs. A large commercial sawmill in British Columbia can produce 2x4 and ship it to Nova Scotia cheaper than a hobby mill can buy the logs and cut 2x4.
The advantage of a owning a  hobby mill is more about being able to cut your own logs in the dimensions you want, anytime you have the time.
I do think sawing your own lumber for your own projects is exciting and I recently bought a 13hp SMG Champion portable sawmill.(Made in Quebec) I want to make use of windfalls on my woodlot, maybe saw a little for neighbors.

Good luck picking a sawmill and finding a balance between the materials to buy and materials to mill.

PS the SMG clapboard siding technique is pretty traditional.
1. Make a cant to the width of the clapboard.
2. Place wedges on the cross beams of your mill under the cant, use log dogs to lock cant.
3. Cut clapboard, remove wedge, lock cant, repeat.
Tj 201 Patu loader SMG Sawmill

Kingcha

This has been a real good read for me since I am planning on buying a mill in spring.   It has open up my eyes about a few mills and setting up the mill.

Thanks
a Wood-mizer LT15 10hp Electric, 45hp Kioti tractor, electric smoker, wood-fired brick oven & yes a custom built Solar Kiln

WoodenHead

I think Retired-Jack makes a very good point.  If the idea is to save money by milling your own lumber for construction, then you may be disappointed.   I too think that you are better off buying structural lumber that comes from BC.  You'll need stamped and likely planed lumber to meet building code.  Around here it would cost about twice as much for me to mill my own structural lumber than to buy it (assuming I had to buy the logs and I get paid for the time I spent sawing and planing).  Building a log or timber frame home might be a different story.

You could potentially save money by producing your own flooring, cabinetry, trim, moulding and so on if you have all the equipment.  Even some of my walls and ceilings in my home are T&G V-joint 1 x 6 pine.

I second the figure of 8500-10,000 bdft per load for a self loading/unloading truck and pup.  Out of curiosity, what are spruce logs worth in Nova Scotia per 1000 bdft on the international scale? 

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