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Rebuilding a Belsaw M-14

Started by Dieseltim, December 25, 2016, 04:20:54 PM

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Dieseltim



Ok, finally found my missing link. I have been looking every where for chain to use for sawdust removal.

Darrel

Quote from: Dieseltim on April 30, 2017, 08:43:16 PM


Ok, got the bearings for the main arbor mounted.

Seeing this picture answers a question I've had for a while. Cleaning out my Father-in-laws barn after he passed, I found a shaft with a couple of bearings on it and what looked to be an arbor nut on one end. I thought it might be for a small sawmill such as this and now I know that it is.

Just a few more parts and I'll have me a circle mill.  ;D
1992 LT40HD

If I don't pick myself up by my own bootstraps, nobody else will.

Dieseltim

Darrel,

If you think that it is a Belsaw, then it should be 1 3/4" shaft and 1 3/8 arbor with left hand threads. If that is what you have then yes it is the main shaft for a Belsaw.

Darrel

Right hand thread, so not a belsaw.
1992 LT40HD

If I don't pick myself up by my own bootstraps, nobody else will.

Dave_

Just a note, Belsaw did make a few left hand mills along the way.

bandmiller2

If I recall cordwood, alias buzzsaws, used a saw with a 1 3/8 inch hole that arbor might have been for bucking up stove wood. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

Dieseltim




Ok so I found a bigger blade.

711ac

Quote from: Dieseltim on April 30, 2017, 08:43:16 PM


Ok, got the bearings for the main arbor mounted.

Tim, it might just be my rust phobia, but I see saw dust filling your frame tube at the top cuts necessary to mount the arbor/bearings. Rain will leave a soggy mess in there for a long time. I realize it's 3/8" wall but of all the places you don't want to have to patch up.........
You really had a vision with this project, from collecting the steel years ago, to your other details that you obviously given a lot of thought, my hat's off to you! Thanks for posting your mill build!

Dieseltim

Good point, I had not talked about the drain holes I will be adding to the bottom side of the frame rails, and I will have to build covers to go over the bearings and arbor where it passes thru the frame.

Hopefully I will get a shed over it by next year. That should keep the rain off of it and the heat of the sun off of me. Lol

Thanks for the compliments.

PC-Urban-Sawyer

Actually, I've heard that direct sunlight on the blade can have a bad effect on sawing with a circle mill.

Might want to rig up some type of awning to shelter the saw until you build the permanent roof.

Nice job on the restoration.

Herb

Babylon519

Direct sunlight will absolutely heat the blade. On a sunny summer day, I'm okay milling until about 2 pm when the sun becomes too direct. I have an umbrella over the blade, but what I really need is a shed for that sawmill!  - Jason
Jason
1960 IH B-275 - same vintage as me!
1960 Circle Sawmill 42"
Stihl MS440 & a half-dozen other saws...

Dieseltim



It took most of my free time at work for this week to make it, but it looks like the coupling is going to work great.

Darrel

Hey, if you're not careful, you'll be sawin' logs soon!  :)
1992 LT40HD

If I don't pick myself up by my own bootstraps, nobody else will.

Dieseltim

I can only hope so. Some days it just seems like I don't get much done. This week has been busy but not a lot of sawmill progress.

bandmiller2

Good flange Tim, when ever I find worn out sprockets, especially ones with taperlock, I save them to join shafts. Sometimes if I get fancy I'll even machine off the worn teeth. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

Dieseltim

I did not have a taper lock, so I made it from solid 3" round stock and a piece of 1/4" plate. Cutting the keyway on the inside was the hardest part of it. This will bolt to the rearend hub where the car's wheel used to be mounted.

Kbeitz

Quote from: Dieseltim on May 06, 2017, 08:18:56 AM
I did not have a taper lock, so I made it from solid 3" round stock and a piece of 1/4" plate. Cutting the keyway on the inside was the hardest part of it. This will bolt to the rearend hub where the car's wheel used to be mounted.

A broach is the easy way to make key ways...
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Dieseltim

Yes I did broach it. It was a first for me. Always learning new things.

Kbeitz

Quote from: Dieseltim on May 06, 2017, 08:44:40 AM
Yes I did broach it. It was a first for me. Always learning new things.

Did you use a press broach?
What gave you problems ?
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Dieseltim

I started to do it with an arbor press but it was too tall at 8" long. So, I did it in a hydraulic press. It worked much better after I cut it in half to 4".

Kbeitz

Quote from: Dieseltim on May 06, 2017, 11:31:59 AM
I started to do it with an arbor press but it was too tall at 8" long. So, I did it in a hydraulic press. It worked much better after I cut it in half to 4".

The cutting arbor was 8 feet long?
Most are around 16-24 inches.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Dieseltim

Lol. No the part was 8 inches long.

bandmiller2

Another thing to remember Tractor Supply has a section of keyed hubs with sprockets and sheves to weld together, can save a lot of time. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

Dieseltim

Frank,

  I looked there first, but the biggest thing my tractor supply has is only 1 1/2". If they would have had a 1 3/4" coupling for a tractor, I would have had this thing sawing wood from my 36 hp Kubota tractor a long time ago. Then I would have had to upgrade it to the bigger 5 cylinder diesel, once I ran out of pine to cut. Lol

We have millions of acres of pines in Ga.

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