blade recommendations for lt10?

[jaysaint]

hi to everyone, i put down a deposit on n lt10 and am going to use it to cut last years storm damaged trees both dead and live.  what would be the best blade for this ? I can also soak the dead stuff in my pond if that would be helpful.  i have been reading info on this site for years  in antisapation of getting a mill  ;D  thanks for the  help.  jay

[Percy]

Congrats on the mill.. And welcome.... Im not up on blades for manual mills but Im thinking the woodmizer folk will steer you in the right direction... ;D

[addysdaddy]

Welcome. I picked up my LT10 last year and love it. I mostly cut for myself for projects around the farm. It's great to use your own resources. I bought the DOUBLE HARD 10 degree blades from WM for my mill and they work great. I've mostly done hemlock with some pine and birch thrown in for fun. These blades work on all types of logs. Haven't done any frozen wood yet but fresh or dry logs doesn't seem to make a difference. One thing I found with the LT10 is when I got into harder woods like birch and ash and over 10-12 inch boards it would start to wobble like a dogs hind end wagging. Figured out it was the blade tension not quite tight enough. Still have to go a bit slower with the big stuff. The LT10 just doesn't have the power of the bigger mills but I'm not cutting for a living and speed doesn't bother me. I you look at my other posts you'll see a mod for the log clamp screw. This really makes clamping the log easier. Enjoy your new mill.

[thecfarm]

jaysaint,welcome to the forum.
What's all the lumber going to be used for?

[Sixacresand]

Welcome Jaysaint.  Enjoy your LT10.   

[Chuck White]

Welcome to the Forestry Forum, jaysaint.

[jaysaint]

thanks for the warm welcome, the lumber will be used for raised garden beds  a small addition to the house, mainly getting it to help my sons and daughters lumber needs , on good days hope to have 4 generations of  sawyers and helpers to run the mill.

[Percy]

on good days hope to have 4 generations of  sawyers and helpers to run the mill.

That would be awsome.  ;D

[Magicman]

Welcome to the Forestry Forum, jtflynn.  I went to the WM Website and found two recommendations: 

.042 x 1¼ x 144; 9°; 7/8
Works With:  LT10; Other Equipment;
Part #: U2751449S

.042 x 1¼ x 144; 10°; 7/8
Works With:  LT10; Other Equipment;
Part #: U27514410S

My advice is to not starting "chasing" blades.  Get either blade and learn your sawmill and the basics of log face opening and sawing.  You will be OK.   

[jaysaint]

thanks magicman  i have 20 9 degree blades coming with the mill also got 1 bed extention to boot.  2  old antique peavys   a case 990 with fel  for support

[Nomad]

     Jaysaint, at this stage of the game getting a Logrite cant hook to replace your antiques will serve you better than worrying about which blade is best.  Congrats on the mill!

[dgdrls]

Welcome jaysaint,
congratulations on your mill

Dan

[Jeff]

Yep, make your live easier and get a logrite canthook for use on the mill and hang those old ones on the barn wall.

[ncsawyer]

Yep, make your live easier and get a logrite canthook for use on the mill and hang those old ones on the barn wall.

I've got a logrite and an old wooden handled one that my granddad used. I keep both hooks at the mill and use them interchangeably. The logrite is nice and I don't have to worry about breaking the handle, but it doesn't have as big of a "bite" as the old one.  When I have 25+ inch logs, the old cant hook comes in handy!

[Jeff]

You needed a bigger logrite then. There is never a time when a logrite will be outperformed by a wooden handled antiquity. Makes zero sense to mention being worried about breaking a wooden handle and at the same time say that is the one you are going to use for the biggest logs.

[Magicman]

and an old wooden handled one that my granddad used.

I would never chance breaking my Granddad's peavey.  There are places on the wall to hang such treasures.  (I wish that I had my Granddad's peavey.)

[ncsawyer]

I try to stay away from using all exclusive terms such as "never" in such comparisons.  Both my logrite and my wooden cant hook are the same size in terms of handle length (48 inches), but the wooden handle antique has a much larger bite and hook on the end.  It is definitely not as efficient to use on average size logs but is much easer to use on larger diameter logs

I have never broken a cant hook by turning a log.  I have however broken them by using them as a pry bar (I know not the best use) to push big logs around on my old manual mill.

My question is, do the 60 inch logrites have a larger "bite" than the 48 inch logrites, or just a longer handle.

[ncsawyer]

and an old wooden handled one that my granddad used.

I would never chance breaking my Granddad's peavey.  There are places on the wall to hang such treasures.  (I wish that I had my Granddad's peavey.)

Yes MM, I admit that I would be upset if it were to be broken...I have another identical one that I acquired of his that I keep in a safe place in the barn. 

[Jeff]

My question is, do the 60 inch logrites have a larger "bite" than the 48 inch logrites, or just a longer handle.

Yup it does.   I would like to add though, that the 48"  hook easily handles a 24" log.  It's official rating I think is to 32"

[ncsawyer]

My next cant hook investment will probably be the 60 inch logrite!  The extra 12 inches in handle length will be more cumbersome than the shorter ones....but if I find that I absolutely need a shorter handle with the larger bite, I guess I could always slide the rubber handle cover off and shorten the handle to whatever length works best and replace the rubber handle.

[Magicman]

 

 
Different lengths for different jobs.   ;D

[Cutting Edge]

jaysaint,

I realize that you have already ordered 9 deg. blades, but I would like to offer this advice...

In my experience, a 4 deg. hook angle blade is much better suited for your LT10, along with other sawmills running smaller engines.  Due to the very narrow torque curve, it can be hard to achieve a consistent and appropriate feedrate .  The wider the cut, the harder it is to control and lumber quality suffers.  Get into large knotty logs, and it can try a person's patience quickly.

A 4 degree blade will let you better utilize the available torque output and keep the engine RPMS in the "sweet spot".  You mentioned sawing both green and dead timber.  You may find the dry logs will give you some trouble, depending on species.

My customers with these smaller mills (WM, NW, HF, etc.) actually request that I re-sharpen all their blades to have a 4 deg hook angle one they tried it.  Yes, it may cut a little slower in softwoods, BUT they realize they can cut anything with it AND produce a good quality piece of lumber.  W. Oak, knotty pine, frozen Hickory, doesn't matter... good straight lumber.  They were not able to do so with 7 and 10 deg blades right out of the box.

If you start with the right blade, you won't have to "chase" anything.  You'll be able to learn and become proficient right away.  By not having to second guess why you are not producing a product that is up to your expectations. you'll shorten your learning curve significantly.

Hope this helps and good luck with your new mill !!

[jaysaint]

thanks for the info cutting edge,  I had read about the 4 degree bands  but  since  no 1 had suggested them i wasn't sure what to think.  The wood mizer dealer had recommended the 9's so thats what i was going by.  I  may still be able to get some 4's as i don't get the mill for another 10 days.  thanks again,  Jay

[gfadvm]

My 78" Logright has become my favorite. Yes, it is heavy and a bit cumbersome, but I can move logs by myself that it took 2 people to move before the 78"er came along. And I rarely have any help!

[Cutting Edge]

... I  may still be able to get some 4's as i don't get the mill for another 10 days.  thanks again,  Jay

I'm sure that would allow enough time to adjust your order however you see fit.   ;)