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Thick slab glue up

Started by stumpy, December 30, 2011, 06:25:45 PM

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stumpy

I'm looking for some ideas on improving my method.  frequently I need to glue up slabs as thick as 2", wide as 12", and long as 8'.  The problem is getting a good edge on them so they glue up clean and seamless.  I use biscuits and Tightbond 2 glue.  The problem is, if I rip them on the mill, they're fairly true, but not good enough.  I tried running them thru my joiner, but they're just to big to handle.  I tried the table saw, but because they're so big, it's hard to control the cut.  Any ideas????
Woodmizer LT30, NHL785 skidsteer, IH 444 tractor

tyb525

Circular saw and good blade, with a long, stiff straightedge (metal or hardwood). Clamp the straightedge to the board and run the base of the saw against it.
LT10G10, Stihl 038 Magnum, many woodworking tools. Currently a farm service applicator, trying to find time to saw!

Ianab

I've mounted my big router on the mill carriage. Put a large flat cut bit in the router and you can joint and plane pretty much any  size board, and get it as true as your mill's rails.



Ian
Weekend warrior, Peterson JP test pilot, Dolmar 7900 and Stihl MS310 saws and  the usual collection of power tools :)

shelbycharger400

i use a pro's edge  (menards) and a skill saw. 
I must add,  pro cabinet shops use LONG toe and foot boards on their jointers

Nomad

     Try a long, wide straight edge made of something thin and hard clamped to the board.  Use a router with a 2" long pattern/trim bit.  You can get them with the bearing either on the top, bottom, or both.
Buying a hammer doesn't make you a carpenter
WoodMizer LT50HDD51-WR
Lucas DSM23-19

LeeB

You can also use the skilsaw/straight edge combination by laying the two boards to be glued side by side. Use some cleats and wedges to lightly clamp them together. Position the straight edge so the cut will be centered on the seem down the middle. Any discrepecies will be mirrored from one edge to the other.
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

Rooster

Stumpy,

Here are a couple ideas:

Build portable workbenches on lockable casters that will double as infeed and outfeed tables for your table saw.

Use a 18" x 96" ripped slice of 1/2" cdx plywood, and clamp your 2" stock to the top...use the factory edge of the plywood against your fence. Carraige bolts, wing nuts, and some hardwood blanks can be used to hold the stock in the correct position.

Also, there is a company in Madison called The Workbench Tool Company
http://www.workbenchtool.com/
...and they may still have a straight line rip saw.  It takes rough sawn lumber and edge cuts automatically.   Might be worth the trip "Out West" to get a quality product that you don't have to fight with...and get a good seamless glue-up.

Good luck,

Rooster
"We talk about creating millions of "shovel ready" jobs, for a society that doesn't really encourage anybody to pick up a shovel." 
Mike Rowe

"Old barns are a reminder of when I was young,
       and new barns are a reminder that I am not so young."
                          Rooster

purple otter

A few years ago I built a dining table out of 3" thick white oak.Like you said it is HEAVY.In order to handle the planks I built infeed and outfeed tables for my jointer.They were only as wide as my jointer and have adjustment screws onthe legs.The tops were melamine to help the material slide better.I also ripped everything to 6",this not only made it easier to handle ,but allowed me to true  up one surface on the jointer before planing them.I know it sounds bad ripping a nice 12" piece in 1/2,but when they are glued back together you honestly can't see the joint.Good luck!
Hudson Oscar 228 on homebuilt trailer, Kubota B2320 with homebuilt forks,Stihl 028 Super & 029 Super, Solar Kiln .

scsmith42

Depending upon your budget, I would suggest two options.

Option 1 - Festool track saw (the larger one).  Expensive, but phenominal quality.
Option 2 - a high HP router with a straight bit and an edge guide.  Less $ than the Festool, and more versatile.

Option 2 is probably the most commonly used option for achieving a straight edge on longer boards.
Peterson 10" WPF with 65' of track
Smith - Gallagher dedicated slabber
Tom's 3638D Baker band mill
and a mix of log handling heavy equipment.

beenthere

The slightes change in moisture content will likely change any straight edge obtained.
So quick assembly after straightening the edge will be important as any crook will not likely be removed by clamping.

purple otter has a very good idea for thick material.  ;)
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Norm

I have the festool track saw Scott talked about and it works great.

red oaks lumber

finding someone in your area that has a straight line rip saw will be the cheapest, fastest, most accurate option :)
the experts think i do things wrong
over 18 million b.f. processed and 7341 happy customers i disagree

purple otter

Here is a  picture of the jointer extention ,and the dining table.

  

  

 
Hudson Oscar 228 on homebuilt trailer, Kubota B2320 with homebuilt forks,Stihl 028 Super & 029 Super, Solar Kiln .

beenthere

I have similar jointer extensions for long pieces on the jointer as well.

I see you are getting some top shrinkage in the table but have allowed for it to slide in the end caps.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

stumpy

Thanks for all the input.  I'm reminded why I'm a member here.  keep it commin 8)
Woodmizer LT30, NHL785 skidsteer, IH 444 tractor

purple otter

Beenthere,the 3"oak airdried for7years and the 40"top shrunk 1/2",not too bad.
Hudson Oscar 228 on homebuilt trailer, Kubota B2320 with homebuilt forks,Stihl 028 Super & 029 Super, Solar Kiln .

SwampDonkey

Like beenthere says about truing up the edges, make sure you use it soon or it will move out of square over a few days.
"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

Magicman

Yup, you gotta allow wood to do what wood does.  I built a Grandfather clock out of Pecan once.  Well, I should say "was building".   :-\  I finally had to scrap the entire project because I did not allow enough room for shrinkage with some wide raised panels.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

WDH

Purple Otter,

The sliding dovetail on the breadboard end is a very nice design feature!
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

Ironwood

Well, others have said this but, for what is worth I make my living building with BIG thick material. Delivering a 22' walnut bartop to downtown Pittsburgh tomorrow morning. Tree was lightening struck lightly, see the check in the pics. Also, it is in priamrily two pieces with a third center "marque"

The straight edge router is THE way to go. Skip Festool (sorry guys) unless you have other uses for their system(s),...$$$

Go to an aluminum supply shop and get/order a 1/2" or 5/8" x 4" piece of high tensile aluminium (40/20 I think)  "flat bar" , Mine is 12' long and it get used frequently for just this purpose. Forget about add-on tables (although I have them on my 16" Oliver jointer) the straight edge is the way to go. I even have a hidden hole in the wall on the outfeed side of the jointer for the boards to go out if they are longer than 9' or so ::)

It stays true and will last and last. mine was $150 many years ago. Pic looks shiny, it dulled down when it dried (I HATE shiny)

Ironwood



  

  

 
There is no scarcity of opportunity to make a living at what you love to do, there is only scarcity of resolve to make it happen.- Wayne Dyer

metalspinner

I use the router and straight edge trick,too.  But one thing is different in my process.

The straight edge is clamped to the first piece and edge routed.  Leave the straight edge in place and clamp into position the second board so a gap 1/16" smaller than your cutter diameter is between the two boards.  Now run your router the opposite direction of your first cut jointing the edge of the second board.  This will leave a mirror image on the second edge and your peices will mate perfectly.  Any irregularity in the straightedge will not matter as the defect will "key" into each other..

A couple more tips... make sure to run the same spot of the router baseplate against the straight edge for each cut.  One smooth motion and speed the entire length of cut will also produce better results.
I do what the little voices in my wife's head tell me to do.

Larry

Another straight edge/router guy.  When you get a straight edge buy two.  One about 10' long to rip and another 3 or 4' long to make your crosscuts.

Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

We need to insure our customers understand the importance of our craft.

stumpy

I'm thinking the straight edge is the way to go.  I have tried it with a 1x2 oak, but had trouble with the saw fence slipping under the edge.  Do you guys have a problem with the straight edge flexing cause it's only clamped on the ends of long pieces?
Woodmizer LT30, NHL785 skidsteer, IH 444 tractor

Ironwood

That is the reason for the better grade of aluminum AND the thick dimensions I stated, mine is HEAVY, like 40 pounds or so. DOES NOT MOVE.

Ironwood
There is no scarcity of opportunity to make a living at what you love to do, there is only scarcity of resolve to make it happen.- Wayne Dyer

shelbycharger400


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