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Need Some Input from builders/users

Started by Tryduck, February 21, 2017, 07:52:38 PM

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Tryduck

New to FF , Thanks for letting me join the group.

Building a Band saw mill (2x2 sq tube) carriage 4' tall 4' wide sitting on 3x3 Sq Tube 4' Long which will end up with wheels on to roll down 20' tracks.The platform that will raise and lower is going to be 2'x 4' on I think either cable or acme rods(still deciding that also.I need some input on the wheel bearings and which design to go with. I was going to go with 22" rims that will cut down to 2"-3" wide (mill a crown on where blade will ride) to use as Band wheels or Just go with the 18.75 pulleys at surplus.com. I wanted to get input on which type setup to go with. Should I use the 4 bolt flange  ,2 bolt pillow block or Use a Automotive style 4 bolt Moog wheel hub bearing assemblies.
      I was going to use 2 bolt pillow block bearings each wheel if I used 2x2 for band wheels but then was thinking using 4/6" sq tube if I was going to go with the 4 bolt flange/auto hub assemblies. Which would be the better way to go to get longest life out of bearings possible.If I go with auto hubs I need only 2 plus one pillow block to support axle shaft/pulley on the drive wheel.The 22" rims I will have shaved the width on will bolt right to them and I can mill splines shaft to slide into the hub as they do with cv axle ends . The back side will go through a pillow block bearing to help support the pulley/belt tension. Other side will be a non driven wheel bearing assembly being it doesn't need a shaft through it. I was also curious what is best tension type design. If I go with the 4"/6" sq tube with Moog hub assemblies I will not need a support in the front of the band wheels like I would if I used the 4bolt flange or 2 bolt pillow block bearing setups. I will be taken a set of 22" rims and narrowing them until I about a 2-3" wide wheel , removing the lips that the tires seal to along with much of the rim width so that only the area inline with the hub is left, making a crow then where the band wheel will ride.






Tryduck

Also need to ask what type paint to use? I was thinking of sand blasting then using a type of epoxy primer and paint they use for horse trailers or normal 8-24' trailers when they come new. Color doesn't really matter as I am just out for protection against weather/rust..

Kbeitz

Any good automotive paint will work good.
If you'r not worried about color then go to a paint shop
and ask for miss matched colors. (paint that was mixed wrong)
I got my paint for $5.00 a gallon. They wont tell you that
they have to pay to dispose of it so they are glad to sell it.
If you need more than one gallon just mix any two gallons
together. Just make sure it's the same kind of paint.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

DMcCoy

Paint - I use Rustoleum oil base but always with rusty metal primer even on new metal.  Because I am the "King of Cheap" I use open cell sponge packaging material with wooden clothes pins as a handle for paint brushes, cheap cheap cheap (Kbeitz?).  Color - I went with JD green and get more comments about the paint color than the mill.

Kbeitz

JD green paint from JD is some very good paint.
One coat will cover very easy. Top notch paint.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Tryduck

Any one here that repairs their own saw mills or built their own that could maybe give me some input on my build.

Kbeitz

Quote from: Tryduck on February 22, 2017, 06:53:08 PM
Any one here that repairs their own saw mills or built their own that could maybe give me some input on my build.

It's a long read... Building my mill

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,82853.0.html
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

DMcCoy

Quote from: Tryduck on February 22, 2017, 06:53:08 PM
Any one here that repairs their own saw mills or built their own that could maybe give me some input on my build.

I went with the 18.75" V pulley, B 57 belts,  2 - 2bolt pillow blocks, 1 on each side.  Each side is adjustable.  You will need to adjust them to run true to each other, both horizontal and vertical.  The blade should track, at full speed, with out needing guides, when you are not sawing. 
I used 2" .120 tube for the whole carriage.  The frame that holds the wheels I used 2"  .250 wall.
I use a porta power for tensioning.
Hope that helps.


Tryduck

DM thanks for info , I went ahead and ordered 2 of them 18.75 today . figured for $64 wasn't a bad deal for them and could find another use down road if I didn't end up using them.I wanted to know about the belt.Did you heat up it in hot water or did it stretch that much and fit over the pulley and isn't loose fitting once it is on.Should I be looking for a normal belt or some special type belt to put on the band wheel pulleys.Like a neoprene or kavlar type belt?


Kb awesome build read, I got some questions answered just reading your build so thanks! What is the distance center to center on the band wheels ? Is there a "common" length blade I should be using that is obtainable most places in stock that doesn't need to be special ordered? Long read means lots of useful information to me so I don't care how long it takes me to read a build.Thats whole point I came here.For input and help on my first band build    :)

Tryduck


DMcCoy

Quote from: Tryduck on February 23, 2017, 12:13:02 AM
DM thanks for info , I went ahead and ordered 2 of them 18.75 today . figured for $64 wasn't a bad deal for them and could find another use down road if I didn't end up using them.I wanted to know about the belt.Did you heat up it in hot water or did it stretch that much and fit over the pulley and isn't loose fitting once it is on.Should I be looking for a normal belt or some special type belt to put on the band wheel pulleys.Like a neoprene or kavlar type belt?

There are plenty of discussions about belts.  See the 56 or 57 post for starters.  I tried but could not get the 56 onto the pulley, even with hot soapy water.  I use standard B57's from Surplus Center and haven't had issues.  I don't saw commercially like MM but he uses 57's too.  Belts are cheap compared to the rest of your project and you can change your mind anytime.  Belts are also a wear item, needing occasional replacement.

Your blade question; I get my blades from Cooks Saw.  Very helpful people!  It's been so long I forget if I use a standard size or not.  Give them a call they can help you with your questions.  Mine might be custom as I remember giving them the range of adjustment I had in inches.  They then round up or down a 'tooth spacing' so that you will get even tooth spacing at the weld.  They will also need to know which side your sawdust discharge is.  Call them, you need that blade information for your wheel spacing and adjustment range.  Blades stretch a little and you want enough slack to get the blade on and off without force.

I built mine to have @4" of adjustment independent of the adjustment available on the bearings.  Those slots in the bearing I use to get the wheels adjusted.  The sliding end of my saw frame is the 4" I'm referring too.  Keep in mind that is 4" of rigid(or close) slack adjustment.  I used 2" ID receiver tube - the stuff they make trailer hitches out of, it's missing the internal seam.  Spendy stuff!

Ox

158" or 13'2" is a very common length.  You asked about bearings.  I would think an automotive bearing will outlast a pillow block bearing.  Of course, this is all relative to the quality of said bearings.  Your build looks good to me so far.
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

Joe Hillmann

For raising and lowering the head I would recommend going with some type of lead screw. I went with a cable set up because it was quick and cheap and because of the stops on the hand winch I can never get the head to the exact height I want and both sides of the head are never at the exact same height.  The cable gets the job done but it limits the accuracy the mill is capable of.

Kbeitz

If using a hand winch it should be worm driven.
You can get them cheap on E-bay.



 

Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

JRWoodchuck

I used 1 1/4" 4 tpi acme rod with steel nuts seems to work good for me so far. Do mill very much though. Woodmizer uses chain to lift I believe. Which could be very accurate as well. I run the 18.75" pulley from surplus center with b57 belts I like them a lot better than the urethane 56's. The way the urethane sits in the groove it wouldn't center creating a lot of unnecessary vibration. Ended up walloring out 2 pulleys that I had to replace.
Home built bandsaw mill still trying find the owners manual!

Joe Hillmann

Quote from: Kbeitz on February 23, 2017, 05:58:47 PM
If using a hand winch it should be worm driven.
You can get them cheap on E-bay.



 

That would help a lot but it still doesn't force each to be at the same distance from the bunks like leadscrews would.  On mine the vibration of the engine is usually enough for both sides to settle to about the same height but when I crank it without the engine running it is very obvious that is it is raising or lowering one side goes maybe 1/2" then stops as the other side goes 1/2" then that side stops and the first side goes again and on and on until I stop cranking it.

Kbeitz

Quote from: Joe Hillmann on February 23, 2017, 07:56:01 PM
Quote from: Kbeitz on February 23, 2017, 05:58:47 PM
If using a hand winch it should be worm driven.
You can get them cheap on E-bay.



 

That would help a lot but it still doesn't force each to be at the same distance from the bunks like leadscrews would.  On mine the vibration of the engine is usually enough for both sides to settle to about the same height but when I crank it without the engine running it is very obvious that is it is raising or lowering one side goes maybe 1/2" then stops as the other side goes 1/2" then that side stops and the first side goes again and on and on until I stop cranking it.

That's why I put long tubes on my carriage. If it can't shift sideways then
it will stay flat. The longer the tubes the better your control. I  don't have
any problems keeping it level. One thing nice with the  worm driven unit is anytime you let go of the handle it stays right there. You don't have to worry about the handle coming around and smacking your hand if you let go.



 
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

york

Yes,longer tubes and you need angle bracing in upper corners of the head....Looks like you did not build the head tall enough...

I would not worry about what paint to use...
Albert

Tryduck

Have heard great things about cooks saw blades and their helping people so gave them a call about getting idea which blade and how long to use. Well I was not impressed at all with them! This woman answered the phone with a hello , so I asked if it was cooks saw blades , next I started asking some basic questions and this woman said Look we cant tell you anything how to setup your mill all we can tell you is how our mill is setup . We cant tell you anything about building your band saw mill ..... So I was very very very displeased with cooks saw blades. Was planning to buy the blades and guide setup from them but not really sure based on that first contact with that woman!! They cant be only one who sells saw mill parts so onward...

Tryduck

Thanks for worm gear info. This is way I was going but Worm gear will be driven with motor winch also.I will have power/battery and will be charging as engine runs. I may try to have a hybrid type system with a removable hand crank option just in case.

Ox

That's the first time I've heard anything bad about Cooks.  I've dealt with them in the past several times and always very friendly and helpful.  Maybe you need to ask to talk to the boss.  Many people have and he's given lengthy discussions over the phone about many different things about mills, even homemade ones. 
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

Tryduck

York,  the great thing about steel is you can add or remove. Cutting the top and extending is not a issue. I noticed similar mills from members here are only 48" tall including the cross bracing. If Need be I will move head out further where band blade clears and can drop as low as the casters it uses to ride on the rails.This is just a trial thing and first build , I'm sure I wont get everything right and have to learn some hard lessons :). I am not planning to cut huge diameter trees but Down the road if I get the mill fever bug Ill build a larger mill for them monster trees.

Tryduck

Ox , thats why I decided on cooks because of the things ive heard about them. But I just got off phone with that older lady and wow I was not impressed one bit. Really made me feel like I should find another supplier right off the bat. She was not a nice at all and really bad bedside manner. It was almost like I was ruining her day just by calling her and asking any questions about mills ! Talked for maybe 2 mins and once she said we cant tell you nothing about building your mill all we can tell you is how our mill is, I said then can you at least tell me standard blade I should be building for that is made a lot. She then replied , I already told you we cant tell you how to build your mill so at that point I was so shocked I just decided to get off phone with them/her and choose another supplier for band blades/guides...Was not a pleasurable experience what so ever.Maybe I will try again later but not sure I am will to risk another conversations with that lady again!

Ox

Man, that sounds like stuff that's happened to me before with other businesses.  I remember how that felt.  I really do understand your anger and frustration.  I never talked to an old woman, it was always younger women who were very friendly.  I'm wondering if people called off or quit or got fired and this old biddy had to fill in and was all pissy because of it.  It's a shame.
I would encourage you to try again in a few days, maybe next week.  Cooks has good blades and guides and other parts, including whole mills.  Maybe if you hear that same voice (I doubt you'll forget anytime soon if you're anything like me) just hang up, or actually put her on the spot.  I've done this before and the results can be amazing.  Something like "Hi there - I called last week and I think it was you I talked to...I hope you're in a better mood today because the other day you were very rude to me and I don't think your boss would have liked the way you treated me.  Are you in better mood today?".  I've used this method before and the results are usually very good.  Only rarely will the gal deny everything but at least you get results in the end.  Keep us posted.
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

FloridaMike

The Cook's website store lists every length and size bands for all their mills and most other brands.  I think you can find (within an inch) from one of the mill builders.  Which allows you to just build your mill at the width that works best for you... and then check Cook's site to cross reference what mill's band is compatible.  My homemade project came in to be compatible with either a Timberharvester 16'8" x 1 1/2" or Husky 16'9" x 1 1/2". 

http://store.cookssaw.com/band-blades/blades-for-cooks-sawmills/
Mike

Kbeitz

Wheelchair motors last much longer than a winch motor will and
the battery draw will be much less. again E-bay sells them cheap.



 
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Solomon

Customsawyer is one of the guys on here you should talk to.  :P :P :P
Time and Money,  If you have the one, you rarely have the other.

The Path to Salvation is narrow, and the path to damnnation is wide.

Joe Hillmann

The first time I ordered blades from cooks they made it clear that the couldn't garantee the blades would work on my mill because it is a homemade mill.  I also told them I wanted an exact length and didn't want the teeth to line up at the weld.  They said they could do that if that is really what I wanted but the couldn't recommend doing it or guarantee the blades.  I didn't think that was rude of them just covering their butts incase something went wrong and I tried to blame them.  I also don't think it was out of line for them not being willing to give you advice on building your mill because if something doesn't work then you could blame them.


Quote from: Tryduck on February 24, 2017, 12:09:51 PM
Have heard great things about cooks saw blades and their helping people so gave them a call about getting idea which blade and how long to use. Well I was not impressed at all with them! This woman answered the phone with a hello , so I asked if it was cooks saw blades , next I started asking some basic questions and this woman said Look we cant tell you anything how to setup your mill all we can tell you is how our mill is setup . We cant tell you anything about building your band saw mill ..... So I was very very very displeased with cooks saw blades. Was planning to buy the blades and guide setup from them but not really sure based on that first contact with that woman!! They cant be only one who sells saw mill parts so onward...

larrydown60

I also ordered some blades from Cook's and I talked to the older lady and she was very kind and helpful maybe she was raving a bad day. I have a tendency to drive people crazy asking questions. LOL  She was very good good and patient with me I also gave her the wrong measurement at first. they made me some blades to fit my mill, I only ordered 2 to begin with so I can get it lined up and cutting. The blades were only 20.00 each plus shipping. My blades were 15'6"- 1 1/4 - 042 - 7/8 and they sent me all kinds of info on running a new home made bandsaw mill. they also told me when I order more blades they would be around 17.00 a piece Hope this helps

DMcCoy

Quote from: Tryduck on February 24, 2017, 12:31:43 PM
Ox , thats why I decided on cooks because of the things ive heard about them. But I just got off phone with that older lady and wow I was not impressed one bit. Really made me feel like I should find another supplier right off the bat. She was not a nice at all and really bad bedside manner. It was almost like I was ruining her day just by calling her and asking any questions about mills ! Talked for maybe 2 mins and once she said we cant tell you nothing about building your mill all we can tell you is how our mill is, I said then can you at least tell me standard blade I should be building for that is made a lot. She then replied , I already told you we cant tell you how to build your mill so at that point I was so shocked I just decided to get off phone with them/her and choose another supplier for band blades/guides...Was not a pleasurable experience what so ever.Maybe I will try again later but not sure I am will to risk another conversations with that lady again!

If you don't already know there is a fine line here that you might have crossed.  Giving advice on how to build a mill could carry liability on their part.  If she explained she can talk about their mill or about what kind or length of blades I think that is fair. 
If you asked about how to build a mill then I think you have overstepped, they are not a design consultation service.

york

DMcCOY,
You hit the nail on it`s head-Plus,he talked to a woman that picked up the phone to take orders,now what should she know about building a band sawmill???Where is the common sense around here??

Cooks is a FF sponsor so we don`t need to bash them...
Albert

Tryduck

First of all I WAS NOT , I repeat NOT asking how to build my mill! Again so we are clear and everyone understands I WAS NOT asking or wanting to know how to build the mill ! I was wanting to know the STD blade they carried that would not have to be special made every time I ordered some! Next I wanted to know the distance the wheels have to be in order to use that standard blade of theirs! That IMO is not common sense to a person who is building a mill. I am not a machinist or a engineer so all those who claim this is so called common sense , I'm glad you were born with it ! This is a band saw mill not rocket science! Now if I had asked questions like should I use 1/8 wall tube for this and heavy wall for that , yea thats in the area of sorry cant tell you how to build the mill!
My questions were about the VERY product I was planning to buy from them , to ensure it fit/was used within guidelines how they felt it should ! If I just called up and bought blade , ran it busted it sent it back for defects THAT'S not common sense that's stupid ! I am pretty sure online it says to CALL if you are not using a mill they list for each blade so I am betting they want to know information about your mill before you destroy their new bands and decide to blame to replace them! So one more time I was only calling to ask about the distant between wheel shafts and what the adjustment ranges should be for a blade they stock! Sorry if you veterans/ole fellers feel that asking this info is a no no. You never got to where you are asking questions others claimed was common sense :)

Tryduck

Kb - had not thought of that , do wheel chair motors require controllers to operate them or can they be setup like winch motors.

Had a question about bearings. Was going with NTN pillow block 1 1/2" bearings . I had a idea about maybe using bearings that go into rear ends. They make what is called a repair bearing that presses into the end of the axle housing to move bearing locations after a axle bearing has gone bad and damaged the area where it rides. I was thinking of using 3 1/2" thick tube 6" long , machining the ends to accept these repair bearings on each end. They are sealed units with seals on both sides(gear fluid no longer lubes them after repair bearing is installed in rear end). I was going to machine down the tube so I could press them into each end then weld tube to a piece of 1" flat steel for the slider/adjuster on each wheel. Would cylindrical bearings work better and last longer then the ball bearing type pillow block setups?

Kbeitz

Wheelchair motors can be used without the controller. It's just a
DC motor like a winch motor. They are not as strong as a winch
motor but you can run one all day long without it getting hot.
Winch motors are made to only run a short time or they will get hot.
You can buy DC motor controls off E-bay real cheap. Tarp motors
is another way to go.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Jeff

Quote from: Tryduck on February 26, 2017, 08:31:42 PM
First of all I WAS NOT , I repeat NOT asking how to build my mill! Again so we are clear and everyone understands I WAS NOT asking or wanting to know how to build the mill !

Quote from: Tryduck on February 22, 2017, 06:53:08 PM
Any one here that repairs their own saw mills or built their own that could maybe give me some input on my build.

I'm going to say this once Tryduck. You are in need of an adjustment in regards to the way you are presenting yourself to the Forestry Forum members and guests, sponsors, and most important to you going forward, to me and the other admins.  This is your chance to cool your jets and respect all the groups I just mentioned.  I'd strongly suggest you meter your reply if you feel you must reply, so that is does not cause you to lose access to this resource, because you really might find it very useful in the future.
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

Tryduck

I understand. Best I just stick to reading other builder treads. Thanks for the help on my build.

Tryduck

I was only trying to make sure it was clear that i was not asking how to build the mill as folks seem to imply I was and that was whole issue. The other quote I don't get what is offensive about it , I was simply asking for builders and guys who repaired their own stuff their input , not sure how that is offensive but I am sorry for asking that too.

Ljohnsaw

Quote from: Tryduck on February 26, 2017, 08:31:42 PM
... So one more time I was only calling to ask about the distant between wheel shafts and what the adjustment ranges should be for a blade they stock!...

Tryduck, I've been following this thread and decided to comment.  I think your call with Cook's was just a big misunderstanding as your example above.  If you asked "What are your standards blade lengths for 1½ or 1¼ wide blades of a particular thickness", she could give you an answer.  Your question above is missing a very important component needed to provide an answer.  What is the diameter of your wheels?  Even if you gave her that, it is not her "job" to calculate for an unknown mill build - lots of variables.

The formula to set the distance between the axles would be ((Blade length) - (Diameter x 3.14)) / 2 = Axle Spacing.  Likewise, if you want to know how long of a blade to buy and you have a certain distance between the axles that you would LIKE to build then use (Diameter x 3.14) + (Distance x 2) = Blade Length.  Note the use of the parentheses '()' - that indicates the order of calculations, do those first.  I don't mean to insult you as to your knowledge of mathematics - I just want you to calculate it correctly.  Each wheel will consume 1/2 a circle (Diameter x 3.14 / 2) but since you have two wheels (multiply by 2) the 2's drop out.  Then you are left with the upper and lower blade distance between the axles.  Hope that is clear to you without a picture.

Now, the amount of adjustment needed will depend on the type of wheels you are using.  Steel (plain or pulley with v-belt) will need very little adjustment to be able to get it on and tighten it up.  Perhaps 3/4" to 1" movement of one axle - that will take up 1½ to 2" of "slack".  If you are using car tires (like I am), you need 1½ to 2½" depending on the "hardness" of the tire due to its makeup and/or tire pressure.  Without enough slack, it is real difficult to load the blade.

So, feel free to post what diameter wheels you are planning to use and EITHER what distance you want to have your axles or what length blade you want to use.  Then we can help you calculate the other value or check what you come up with.
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

Kbeitz

And if all that doesn't work for you ... Just run a tape measure around it all.

Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Tryduck

John Thanks for that info , I did offer that information in the conversation.Maybe I figured a band saw blade maker would have that type information or know how to get it but I was unclear on the adjustment part needed on a blade they had always in stock.Wasn't clear if they stretched or what was needed to allow for adjustments .My idea was to choose a blade that I didn't have to always wait 7 days for it to be built because everyone else used that one. I did have much better success with another vendor this morning who told what each blade they stocked required based on my pulley wheels (didn't ask about the 22" rims milled because he gave me formula to figure it out, along adjustment allowances) that I will try to use first . It is same formula you just posted. I just didn't know how much adjustment should be allowed and he had no problem telling me that too.
   I knew saw blade makers had many common length blades ,  wanted to choose one of them, chances are they are always in stock compared to calling to get a box of special made ones.

KB as in the picture cant do that as no wheels, just empty carriage that goes down track, hard to run a tape over air :)


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