Well I went and did it.I purchased a used Husky 55. The engine is sound as a rock. The limiter caps have been trimmed. Now the big hurdle.Who ever had this saw did not know a thing about a chain brake.I need to replace the clutch, drive pulley and the side cover. My biggest question is how to get the clutch off. From my little knowledge of huskys, I believe that it is a left hand thread. Do I fill the cylinder with rope or can I put a wrench on the flywheel side? From the numbers 1999-9041952 I will assume that this is a 1999 model. Like I said the engine is strong and will now 4 stroke due to a small modification. Any help on this?Also will this saw handle an 18 inch bar? Ken perplexed in TX
It will handle an 18" bar, but it will handle a shorter one better, cutting faster.
Yes that size saw will handle an 18" bar, all day long.
All modern chainsaws have left hand threads on the crankshaft/ clutch attachment. If you've removed one, you pretty much know how to remove them all. There should be a couple slight indents on the clutch body where you can set a screwdriver or chisel. Block the piston and smack it with a hammer to spin it off.
If you need parts for the saw, drop me a note. I blew a piston in one and have alot parts. That saw will handle a 20" bar as well. We used ours with a 20 and it handled it just fine.
:D :D I frequently see discoloured clutch covers and blued chains and they want warranty. That is one of my favorite saws and has got the grunt for 3/8 chain on an 18" bar which is the setup on most of the ones we sell. Husqvarna tells us we will see the last of them next spring :'(
Link from "How to remove clutch drum on a 55 Rancher?" (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=8653.0)
Quote from: jokers on October 01, 2004, 08:31:19 PM
You can buy piston stops from your Husky or Stihl dealer for about $10. You want a metal one if you choose the screw in type and you can buy the long version and use it on all of your saws. The plastic screw in stops may break if loaded at an angle, they were originally made for the horizontal cylinder saws where the plug entered perpendicular to the crown of the piston.
A cheap and workable substitute is enough clean starter(or lint free, minimally compressible) rope fed through the plug hole to lock the piston, then it`s a left hand thread to remove the clutch. Be careful that you don`t allow the rope to go into your exhaust port as you feed it into the cylinder.
Russ
I have use a Husky 55 for years (Mine is older and before they came out with the rancher.) 18" bar will work fine. I have had very good luck with the Oregon 95VP Micro-lite chain. Real agressive but thinner kerf seems to keep the small saw from bogging down with a longer bar. Remember if you use this chain you have to get a Micro-lite bar to go with it.
max
I have a 55 rancher and It is a great saw for the money. Never failed me yet. Starts good and has enough power on wgat I use it for.
I have a 55 rancher that I use in the back of the mill, haven't been overly enthused with it untill I went to a smaller chain and sprocket. Almost all modern saws have left hand threads. save your self a lot of trouble and use an air wrench to remove the nut.
Good luck and have a great thanksgiving;
Skytramp;
Quote from: Max sawdust on October 28, 2005, 08:10:01 AM
... I have had very good luck with the Oregon 95VP Micro-lite chain. Real agressive but thinner kerf seems to keep the small saw from bogging down with a longer bar. Remember if you use this chain you have to get a Micro-lite bar to go with it.
max
My 353 also works great with the .325 narrow kerf setup.
The Husky H30 and Jred S30 is the same chain as 95VP.
In a recent email from Husqvarna Support "We do not recommend an impact for removing the clutch . The impact gun can damage the crank , either stress cracking it , or shearing it off . The only way to safely remove the clutch is with a piston stop . " Scott
I have a 51, I like it. Has been quiet since I lost a roll pin and that plastic thing that locks the trigger until depressed by my right palm. Been wanting to get to a shop and order those.
Is the 51 and 55 the same except for the jug and piston? And can the 51 be over bored to the 55 specs? Thanks
a Newb question: I am still learning a lot :P Just what is there to know about the brake systems? I apply mine when I don't want the chain to move, and I disengage it when I am ready to cut. I guess there would be some adjustment that could be made to it if it got weak for some reason (too many kick-backs?), but mine seems fine for now.
TY!