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2008 e classic 2300

Started by dkfearon, September 23, 2015, 07:50:24 PM

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dkfearon

has anyone cut out the old air channels in there 2300 e classic and replaced them with the updated stainless removeable ones if so can you guide me through it  the directions that came with the kit don't say much and are not to helpful. Thanks any help would be welcomed

doctorb

 

  

 

We just did this last week.  I have a welder friend who did it for me.  You tend to err with the cuts to leave too much of the original air channel wall (with the air holes).  So you end up grinding down the excess.  He cut this with his torch.  I can't imagine doing this with a saw.  Would take forever.

Note the bolt head near the far end of the newly installed panel.  This screws in and "pushes" the panel toward the firebox.  Small tabs at both ends of the panel slip inside the air chamber to lock it in place.  Easily removed.

So the panel sits inside the old air channel and is held there by the ends of the new panel which sit inside the existing air channel wall at either end.  The bolts push the panel flush with the cut out you've made.  You can not see the tabs on the panels in the pictures, as they are tucked inside the channel.
My father once said, "This is my son who wanted to grow up and become a doctor.  So far, he's only become a doctor."

dkfearon

thank you for your pictures and help

Roger2561

doctorb - Was there any welding to be done prior to placement of the new panel or was it as simple as cutting away the old welded in place panel but leaving enough of a lip to hold the new in place?  What material is the new panel made of?  Is there a possibility of seeing the clips which you said help hold the new panels in place, before they are put in place and after they are inside the air channel?  The welds on my E-Classic 1400 air channel are coming apart and I'd like to see if I can replicate the fix CB provided for you and see if it will work on the 1400.  Thanks for any information you can provide.  Roger   
Roger

doctorb

All good questions. 

No welding was done prior to the cutout.  Yes there is a bit of a lip left behind that the new panel contacts as it's pressed outward.  The shape of the new panels is rounded on the upper and lower edges, so this "fit" onto the back side of the "lip" thats left is not too important.  As the bolts are tightened the rounded edge of the panel contacts the edge of the cutout.  If you cutout too conservatively (not enough), then you can't get the new panel into the cutout space of the air channel, and you find yourself cutting or grinding away the excess left on the lip.  You'll do the second side better than the first!

"Clips" is not the right description.  The panels simply flatten and narrow at both ends, like a tab.  (Think about the top of a cereal box and how it recloses once you've opened it.)  These tabs are about an 1.5 inches long and narrow to be about 1" in width at the end.  They simply become the major contact of the panel to the inside of the air chamber.  If I think of it, I can remove one of mine (It's very easy) and take a pic.  It is the contact made by these tabs, and not the contact of the panel with the inside of the cutout lip, that holds the panel in place.

The panels are made of Stainless Steel.  They are fairly light and flexible, compared to the steel used to manufacture the furnace.

I think everybody with these furnaces has cracks appear in the "face" of the air chambers.  There's simply too much of a temp gradient there with the cool air being blown in and the very hot fire on the other side.  Those cracks don't bother me and, if I had not had an airflow problem, I wouldn't have done this refitting.  I did it to make sure my air channels were clear to give even air flow to both sides of my 2300.







My father once said, "This is my son who wanted to grow up and become a doctor.  So far, he's only become a doctor."

Roger2561

doctorb - Thank you very much.  That's very useful information.  I look forward to the pictures, although your description painted a nice image in my mind of what they should look like.  I have a plasma cutter that will cut through the mild steel like a hot knife through butter.  So the cutting part doesn't bother me too much to remove the old air channel.  My late dad's milling machine will drill and tap the holes for the bolts.  To protect from corrosion, I would guess the bolts are stainless steel too.  Again the milling machine will handle drilling the air holes too.  Thanks again for answering all of my questions.  Roger       
Roger

doctorb

Roger-

There is no tap and drill  for this exercise.  The panel is NOT bolted INTO your stove.  This panel stays in place because of a press fit mechanism, which also makes them easy to remove. 

The bolt holes are threaded and part of the panel ONLY.  As you insert (tighten) the bolts into the panel, the length of bolt sticking out the other side and across your original air channel gets longer and longer.  The tip of the bolt merely contacts the inside surface of the air channel and, as you further tighten the bolt, has the effect of pushing the panel away.  The reason the panel doesn't continue to be pushed out into the firebox is 1) the tabs at each end of the panel and 2) the small lip left at the site of your cutout. 
My father once said, "This is my son who wanted to grow up and become a doctor.  So far, he's only become a doctor."

Logging logginglogging

How much was this kit and what was the part number?
Thanks

Logging logginglogging

You know I just thought with that kit I wouldn't be able to put a grill great in there on nice days with the door open and cook steaks any more....

Logging logginglogging

is this part number   p/n 2500136  ?

JJ

I would not eat anything out of my e classic.
It really stinks from all the creosote.

        JJ

doctorb

yes p/n 2500136  I can not remember the exact cost.  My recollection is in the $50 - $60 range.
My father once said, "This is my son who wanted to grow up and become a doctor.  So far, he's only become a doctor."

Logging logginglogging


Logging logginglogging

Quote from: JJ on September 29, 2015, 05:00:22 PM
I would not eat anything out of my e classic.
It really stinks from all the creosote.

        JJ

Mine runs nice and clean and I have nice hardwood coals... much safer and healthier than charcoal..

doctorb

Sorry about the delayed update and info....

Here's a pic of the cut-out before inserting the new side panel.



 

Here are some pics of the panel itself prior to insertion.  Note the tab on the end that fits inside the cutout.  The bolt is threaded through the panel, not into your stove.




 



 



 

And, again, with the panel inserted.  Hope that helps.



 
My father once said, "This is my son who wanted to grow up and become a doctor.  So far, he's only become a doctor."

Roger2561

doctorb - Thank you very much for posting the pic of the panel away from the channel.  I can see that it will be very easy to replicate something for my E-Classic 1400.  Unfortunately it will have wait until next year due to firing up the OWB early last week.  I'll have all winter long to replicate something for the 1400.  Thanks again.  Roger   
Roger

garret

About 1 hr. with a drill press, tap, sawsall and a section of 2" channel.  Neatly cutting out the firebox w/o inflicting collateral damage or setting hair on fire seems the more difficult task.
E-Classic 2400 comfortably heating 4,200 sq.ft. and unlimited DHW, Off-grid, Photovoltaic-powered pumps in gloomy SW PA , 34 t splitter, numerous Husky chainsaws

Roger2561

My plasma cutter should rid the firebox of the old air channel in my 1400 rather quickly.  My trouble is I don't have that steady of a hand.  I guess if I don't try to hurry the job I should be okay.  I'll take some time this winter to purchase the stainless steel and cut the parts I need.  The one thing I don't have is a metal brake(sp?) so bending the back of the piece is going to be a trick.  Roger     
Roger

doctorb

Roger-

The panels cost about $50-60.  Never been one to tell others how or when to spend their money, but with cutting and shaping and threading the bolt holes and having to do it for both the left and right sides of the stove, I'd suggest just purchasing these panels.  The real work is the cutout.  Once that's done it's easy.  Just my thoughts.
My father once said, "This is my son who wanted to grow up and become a doctor.  So far, he's only become a doctor."

charger arms

Awesome. Thanks for the pics. I have the kit but the instructions were way too confusing for me to start cutting away any material.

I also have the new fusion chamber on the way. Is there any secret to getting out the old refractory panels in the bottom of the firebox? Or do I just hit them with a sledge until they break? I am expecting the instructions for this install to be as awesome as the air channel set.

I did manage to update the door. Its the little things.

doctorb

I didn't find that the new fusion chamber refit was tough at all.  10 minutes.  You might have to smack it a few times.
My father once said, "This is my son who wanted to grow up and become a doctor.  So far, he's only become a doctor."

stratford 50

Hi DoctorB, did you find any operational improvements with the updated fusion ceramic once installed?

doctorb

I do not yet know about the "operation" of the updated fusion module.  I installed mine after last year's heating season was over, during the end-of-the-year maintenance.  I have yet to fire up my 2300 this year.  Usually start between Nov 15 and Thanksgiving.  I was happy to get rid of the metal rods / bars in the old design.  Had to replace them several times over and they often would get knocked out of place during ash clean out from the firebox.
My father once said, "This is my son who wanted to grow up and become a doctor.  So far, he's only become a doctor."

boilerman101

Should be able to get under the edge of the refractory with hook end of wonder bar and lift out. Probably broken or cracked anyway. Should come out of firebox easily. Discard all the refractory and grate rods from the firebox. Just drop the new half moon target refractor wide side up down along the air box

Logging logginglogging

Wow,
I shall take some measurements... I am sure I can make those parts up no problem

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