Sharpening brush saw blades

[Madman_Mark]

Anybody know of an electric tool, like a "dremel" or something for sharpening brush saw blades ? I have 25 kms of cottage  roadsides and ditches that I cut the bush on each year with my 2 Stihl FS 130's. The saws are perfect for this but I get tired of sharpening the blades by hand 3,4 sometimes 5 or 6 times daily. This work is hard on blades with all the road dust that sticks to the stems, even after heavy rains. I use the standard fileguide that comes with the saw with the recommended 7/32 inch file and a flat file for when the blade gets a bit banged up. I have no problem getting them sharp but it takes sooooooo much time sometimes. Theres got to be an easier way for this, plus Ive got a bunch of old blades I could "fix up" if I could find a quicker way to do this. Any advice ???????? ???

[SwampDonkey]

I can't imagine anything quicker then the file guide Mark. How are you going about it? You can hold the end of the saw with the blade and free hand it with the guide. It would have to be in real rough shape to take longer than 5 or 6 minutes. If so, then you need a flat file to take the rounding over off the teeth. Sometimes you just have to reach for a new carton wrapped blade. ;) You can also cut an 4" aspen tree off about 3 feet up and cut a slit in the top to rest the blade. About 15 seconds and you have a bench. Don't put too much hook on the blades for that size saw, there isn't the torque behind it.

[SwampDonkey]

Technique may or may not be the issue. Here is a little write-up.

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,52978.msg766329.html#msg766329

[T Welsh]

Switch to a triangle blade. quicker ,easy to reshrapen and will cut through a 3 to 5 inch stem in 2 passes. Tim

[SwampDonkey]

 ??? 5 inches?  :D

This is where my "divide by 2" rule comes in. ;)

[Woodhog]

Regarding sharpening:

After you file down a ways , what do you do with that secondary piece that keeps growing everytime you file?

Just file it off flush with a flat file?

I have a Husky 343R , it has no guard on it, it came without a guard and the dealer said he couldn't get one.

I hope I don't cut my new boots >:(

[T Welsh]

??? 5 inches?  :D

This is where my "divide by 2" rule comes in. ;)

Not in one swipe, 2 to 3 light passes and its down turn the clearing saw sideways and slash it down. We won a bid job one time that involved clear a creek bank for 1 1/2 miles both sides. all the saplings had to be removed. I tried the saw blades and every time I hit a rock it was toast,tried a triangle blade and beat through the stuff,may take a couple of hits ,but it sure worked for us! Tim

[Kevin]

There's a 12 volt grinder available.

http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=78015T&catID=

[Madman_Mark]

I should have mentioned that we hit lots of rocks :'(, actually its loose gravel from the snow plow that gets thrown into the ditch each winter and it "sits"right on the branches along the trunk of the spruce and fir saplings. You cant see it until you're already into it,happens once or twice a day but sometimes more. I spent at least an hour and a half in total, 5 or 6 different times between me and the guy using my other saw today sitting on the tailgate filing. I use a flat file like you mentioned to get rid of the rounded/rocked edge and the file guide on the round file and I can get the blade pretty near "factory" sharp when I have the time. Im thinking a dremel type tool could save a lot of time on a job like this. At least to  file the top flat and to file the tooth back to where it should be......and then give it 2 or 3 quick rubs with the round file to finish it off. Blades last much longer in the woods doing thinnings then they do in these %^&* ditches >:(.....but I still love it  ;D

[SwampDonkey]

After you file down a ways , what do you do with that secondary piece that keeps growing everytime you file?

Just file it off flush with a flat file?

Yes, then file a new notch with the guide and round file. There is a horizontal line on the tooth. Once it gets to the point your dropping below that line, time to dig out another blade from the sack. ;D

Woodhog if you want a guard here's the parts list.

Parts: Husqvarna 502039406 - Metal Guard 225mm
          Husqvarna 503200316 - Screws (4)
          Husqvarna 537256401 - Guard Adapter
          Husqvarna 537256601 - Loop for adapter
          Husqvarna 503200220 - Adapter Screws (2)

Paul_H might be able to help with the guard.

I can also give you Harold's number at Valley Chainsaw: 1-506-328-6536. I think the dealers network with one another to find parts. I imagine here in the Maritimes, parts are shipped out from Moncton.

Here's a link to show the parts diagram.
http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=husqvarna&mn=343+R+%282003-05%29&dn=25270041

The saw might me discontinued is why parts are hard to get. I think this was a 2003-2005 model. The guard doesn't attach to the angle gear box housing like it does on the 345 and 355.

http://www.husqvarna.com/ca/en/forest/products/forestry-clearing-saws/husqvarna-forestry-clearing-saws-for-professionals

Mark, I know how that gravel sticks to them spruce.  ;D

Tim, hard on the saw though. Lucky the clutch didn't get burnt up on those lighter saws. Yes, with the brush blade it don't take too many strikes to make you dig out the file or new blade. But I'd never beat away at them 5" stems on a  triangle blade. We cut in woods with a lot of granite surface stones, pick the blade up. ;D ;) Sometimes it's a "double cut", to see the rocks below and to get the stumps lower with the next pass. ;)

[Piston]

Do you guys check/set the 'set' of the teeth?  I've only sharpened mine but not checked the set.   (if that's what it's called  :D ???)

[VT_Forestry]

Do you guys check/set the 'set' of the teeth?  I've only sharpened mine but not checked the set.   (if that's what it's called  :D ???)

Yes.  We've found that after a few sharpenings, you have to set the teeth again - as you file the blade down, the kerf narrows and the chips don't clear out.  Stihl makes a tool that we use to quickly do it, but it's somewhat pricey.  I'm sure a pair of channel locks works just as well

[Piston]

Thanks Vt Forestry. 

SD, I just read through the link you posted, should have clicked that before asking my question  ;D

Nice writeup!  ;)

[SwampDonkey]

Piston, I find myself not setting the teeth very often. I find when it doesn't cut well, it's all beat up. :D

[Woodhog]

If you use that little special file/set tool with the file holder be careful you don't set your OWN teeth.

Sometimes it slips when bending the teeth and if you are too close trying to check whats happening when you are
prying on the tooth it can hit you right in the teeth when it slips...

Don't ask me how I found that out!!!! >:(



Thanks to Swamp for all the parts info...

[SwampDonkey]

Could always go for the $50 set tool from Stihl. ;D

[Madman_Mark]

Anybody ever try those carbide brush saw blades thet Stihll has ? Any opinions and any idea what they cost,? Im sure they arent cheap !

[SwampDonkey]

Waste of money unless your in real perfect ground (no rocks, no berms, small stems).  I wouldn't use them and no one around here ever does that I have seen. None even stocked on shelves. Gonna be real hard to sharpen in the woods when they get dinged up.