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Husky 162SE

Started by Mogg, April 10, 2015, 02:52:39 PM

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Mogg

I've never stripped a Husky before.  Does anyone have a workshop manual, or tips and hints on how to safely get it apart?


sablatnic

What are you doing to it? A complete tear down and service?

Mogg

Quote from: sablatnic on April 11, 2015, 03:39:19 AM
What are you doing to it? A complete tear down and service?

It has absolutely no compression at all.  There are third-party cylinder/pistons available, I thought I'd replace them.  There is either a hole in the fuel tank, or a hose has perished, and it leaks chain oil.  Still, I'd hate to junk it.....

sablatnic

Probably the fuel line. And change the crank shaft seals and o-rings. A new oil line and x-ring should take care of most of the oil leak, but the pump itself can leak too. (Or live with the oil leakage, and drain the saw after use).

Don't worry, it is a nice saw to work on, but take care with the wires to the ignition system; they tend to rot!

SawTroll

Quote from: Mogg on April 11, 2015, 03:46:35 AM

It has absolutely no compression at all.  There are third-party cylinder/pistons available, I thought I'd replace them.  There is either a hole in the fuel tank, or a hose has perished, and it leaks chain oil.  Still, I'd hate to junk it.....

Saw engines doesn't get "no compression at all" for nothing - simple wear won't cause that.
You have to find (and maybe fix) the reason the engine failed first - air leak, streight or bad fuel, or simply a lean carb setting.

Then you can worry about what to replace the top end with - after checking the bottom end is OK. ;)
Information collector.

Mogg

Mostly stripped, bottom end seems tight, old piston with two thin rings, no signs of burning or scorching, but the rings seem well worn.  The bore looks fine.  Have got a new cylinder/piston, with one thick ring.  The port arrangement is slightly different, although it should work ok.  I'll fit that and see how it goes.  Last problem is replacing throttle lever.  It runs on a shaft that sits between the two upper A/V mounts, and I'm damned if I can see how to get it out.  Any advice?

sablatnic

Just unscrew the upper anti vibration elements.
It was quite normal for the thin rings to lose compression, but take a look at the crankshaft seals - they are prone to wearing out!

kellysguy

Quote from: Mogg on June 06, 2015, 11:48:19 AM
Mostly stripped, bottom end seems tight, old piston with two thin rings,

I wore a set or rings in half once.

Mogg

Finally got it all back together, only one part left over....

I had bought a new Cylinder & Piston, but discovered that the new cylinder had different mounting holes for the carb.  So I just installed the new piston in the old cylinder, with new bearing and gudgeon pin.  I don't have a compression tester, but pulling on the start rope showed really good compression, so I fuelled up, and it started on fourth pull! Idles okay once warm, accelerates well, seems a good 'un.  Haven't yet checked the oil leak problem, if it still leaks I'll just drain it.

Thanks for all the advice.   Anybody want a spare cylinder?

SawTroll

Just curious, what's the brand and descripion of that spare cylinder?  :)
Information collector.

Mogg

It was from Forest World in Northern Ireland, was actually for a Model 61, 48mm.  Nice and tidy, but the two carb mounting holes were at opposite positions to the 162.  Great pity as it fitted the crankcase, and the muffler. Just examined it again, it has a hemi-spherical bowl in the head, and what I think are called open ports.

SawTroll

Quote from: Mogg on June 23, 2015, 12:37:23 PM
It was from Forest World in Northern Ireland, was actually for a Model 61, 48mm.  Nice and tidy, but the two carb mounting holes were at opposite positions to the 162.  Great pity as it fitted the crankcase, and the muffler. Just examined it again, it has a hemi-spherical bowl in the head, and what I think are called open ports.

It wouldn't perform like the original closed port 162 cylinder, for sure.
Information collector.

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