Possible Husky 365 Build, should I?

[kellysguy]

I got a free saw from the guy I bought the mill from. It is a well used 365 that did see time in an Alaskan mill. He has a few extra bars and chains I can have if I can get it going again. I cleaned it up, cosmetically is isn't that bad. I tore it down and it has a bad rod bearing but piston and cylinder look good enough to use again. Compression was "OK" as it has sat for years and may have been a bit dry. Chainsawr seems to have decent prices and I have a cart filled but need some help.

New aftermarket piston or just put a ring on mine?

Hone cylinder or leave it be?

Used crank or aftermarket for $20 more?

New crank bearings?

What's this about the oring on the crank/vacuum leak thing?

Part it out or is it worth putting back together?

Thanks

[Maine logger88]

365s are a good saw I have a few with a lot of hours on them! Depending on how good your piston is I'd either re ring or buy a new meteor piston. Don't hone the cylinder. If you have a line on a good used oem Crank I'd go that route although I do have one saw with a huzl kit and its held up so far but it doesn't have hardly any hours on it maybe 10 if that. While the crank is out you might as well put new bearings and seals in. A 365 is definitely worth putting some money in its a pro quality saw basically the same as a 372 but it's 65cc and doesn't have the HD filter. If you found a good used 372 cylinder you could put that on and get close to another HP

[kellysguy]

Oh, I thought it was a 70cc saw. So is the 48mm 65cc and the 50-70cc?

[kellysguy]

If you found a good used 372 cylinder you could put that on and get close to another HP

Ya just had to tell me that...didn't ya.... 8)

[Cut4fun]

If it is older 365 with decomp on right side = 65cc.

If the newer 365 with decomp on the top of cylinder = 70.7cc.

[Maine logger88]

Well if it is a xtorq saw then it is a 70cc saw if it is not it is 65. And yes the 48mm is 65 the 50 is 71. Haha sorry that's just the way my mind works I always want more power out of any given thing lol

[kellysguy]

What's up with the 52mm? Runs hot?

[kellysguy]

I'm missing something but can't find it in the schematic. Pt# 503749301, D-29 screw goes in what should be a mount/isolator but nothing was there. What does it look like and does anyone know the pt#?

See link for pic: Page D, 29   http://www.ereplacementparts.com/husqvarna-365-199911-chainsaw-parts-c-114486_114487_114669.html?page=4

[346xp]

Nothing is missing that is a limiter screw only,helps keep the anti vibe springs from breaking 8)

[vatkins]

I just bought a 365 for 200.00 Its in decent shape. Try using e-bay to get your parts. I have had good luck rebuilding a bunch of older husky's like the 51,61,266,268 272xp etc with middle of the road parts. you should be able to find a good crank case really cheap. e bay also has pretty good pics. May help you with finding the missing part. I have been disappointed with the new husky's and try to keep good older saws. May switch to a new Stihl if I buy new again.  Good luck

[kellysguy]

Nothing is missing that is a limiter screw only,helps keep the anti vibe springs from breaking 8)

It's just supposed to bang against the tank with no protection for the tank? Even the other side has a rubber grommet where the limiter hits the tank.

Vat, I don't need a whole crankcase, just the complete crank.

[bandmiller2]

I bought a husky 365 at a tractor pull for $3.50 missing a bar and top cover, for parts. Very low compression but I got it running. Must have been run with no air cleaner rings worn thin. Put an after market piston and rings, split the case and installed common ball bearings and seals I ordered from an automotive parts store.  That was 10yrs. ago and its still my go to saw, running better than ever. Frank C.

[kellysguy]

Wonder if anyone has ever run regular sealed bearings? On second thought it might be good to flush the bearing out as it runs.

[weimedog]

Need the seals removed on those sealed bearings to the inside at a minimum as they need the gas/oil mix for lubrication

I love those 365's as they tend to be cheaper to buy than the 372's...but essentially have all the good stuff like the cases and crank. Also muffler, clutch, oil pump, intake parts including the carb ( But NOT the filter & filter holder)..... same. A stock 365 cylinder with a meteor piston runs really strong if built with a Huztl muffler and no base gasket. About a match of a stock un touched 372.

Splitting the cases is easy with the Husqvarna case splitting tool... about 85-90 bucks. If you get into the Husky building hobby its money well spent. Either a Hustl or used crank will work if yours is toast. Use better bearings than the typical AM offerings....either OEM or Nachi's work well. Stick to OEM case seals. Don't forget that little "O" ring on the clutch side either.

If you can't salvage the 365 top end, there are a bunch of good options starting with a used OEM 372 cylinder and Meteor Piston. OEM 371 single ring pistons are reasonable cost wise and run really well too.

I've had good luck with the Huztl 52mm top ends when built w/o base gasket and a little tweak to the intake timing, about .030 either from the intake side piston skirt or lowering the intake port. ( "Cyclops" build...and there is video evidence that thing runs well)

Just lots of ways to go once you have a solid set of cases to work from.

Have a video about splitting cases...and a look at a Huztl Cylinder vs. other options
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2CFO_qfGdNc

Building a 365 into a 372xpw...and 365/372 trivia..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a2BlIJFwCy4

The aftermarket  saws one year later.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aXOKmd4ww28

[kellysguy]

Need the seals removed on those sealed bearings to the inside at a minimum as they need the gas/oil mix for lubrication

Not really as they are greased from the factory for lubrication. The question is whether or not they would coke from the heat and rpm and if wear debris buildt up enough to damage the bearing as it is no longer flushed out by the fuel mix.

  That being said, there is the chance that fuel mix may work it's way past the seals somewhat. I have in the past used a seal bearing (either one or both sides) in applications that had a damaged original seal area with great success. This wasn't in  two stoke engine however. I considered running only the outer seal installed in the bearing along with the original crank seal as a way to get past possible quality issues with Asian seals. The only problems I really see with that is some oil must be present between the outer bearing seal and the crank seal to serve as lube for the crank seal.

Either it would work better or wear more quickly. It isn't important as I'm not going in that direction anyway. It was just a thought in mid post.

The factory seals are expensive compared to the aftermarket ones. Are the factory seals that good? I haven't seen anyone in on the automotive end make a decent seal in years.

[bandmiller2]

The ball bearings I used were double seal I just popped off the inner seal and left the outer on and grease in the bearings. Frank C.

[weimedog]

Need the seals removed on those sealed bearings to the inside at a minimum as they need the gas/oil mix for lubrication

Not really as they are greased from the factory for lubrication. The question is whether or not they would coke from the heat and rpm and if wear debris buildt up enough to damage the bearing as it is no longer flushed out by the fuel mix.

  That being said, there is the chance that fuel mix may work it's way past the seals somewhat. I have in the past used a seal bearing (either one or both sides) in applications that had a damaged original seal area with great success. This wasn't in  two stoke engine however. I considered running only the outer seal installed in the bearing along with the original crank seal as a way to get past possible quality issues with Asian seals. The only problems I really see with that is some oil must be present between the outer bearing seal and the crank seal to serve as lube for the crank seal.

Either it would work better or wear more quickly. It isn't important as I'm not going in that direction anyway. It was just a thought in mid post.

The factory seals are expensive compared to the aftermarket ones. Are the factory seals that good? I haven't seen anyone in on the automotive end make a decent seal in years.

Not buying the concept. Sealed bearings were not designed with the high heat and continuous  high rpms at that temperatures in mind. If they were... oems would take that route. In over 40 years of building  two strokes I have never seen sealed bearings in high performance two stroke applications and doubt I will anytime soon... electric motors? Wheel bearings? Yes. High heat. High vibration. Along with high rpms... no. 
But it is an interesting concept to leave the outside seals in ....maybe that might supplement the designed stock eals over time.. never tried it.

[JohnG28]

Listen to weimedog, he probably knows more about these saws than the engineers at Husky do.

[kellysguy]

Not buying the concept. Sealed bearings were not designed with the high heat and continuous  high rpms at that temperatures in mind.

I agree, hence the second sentence in my original statement.

Like I said before it was just a thought in mid post. It does make me wonder how much incoming fuel will cool them as they will be HOT from just the grease friction in them alone. (For those who scoff at friction in grease, pack the nose of air gun with grease, reassemble and then run it and see how hot it gets.)

I wouldn't double seal the outer without some lube in the middle for the factory crank seal. I've had a lot of luck fixing leaks in lower RPM stuff by doing that. Let's not get off topic building a theoretical saw until I've finished this one.  :D


Right now I'm torn on using my factory 48mm cylinder with a new aftermarket piston or new 50mm kit. Chainsawr recommended a new crank so I think I'm going that route.


Weimedog, I have a few questions for you if you don't mind.

Are the factory seals any different than the aftermarket ones? I'm assuming you've experienced failures, what happened? Did they just wear too fast or come apart? I hate new seals which is why I started buying bearings with at least one seal on them and mounting it outboard. It makes sense when you think about it; a real seal is supposed to have TWO lips, not one like the new seals.

I hate "new" seals; I hate new sealed bearing too. You would be shocked to see how little grease is being out in them now. Long story short, I used to build and maintain a fleet of BMW and Ferrari race cars professionally. We kept burning up rear wheel bearings on our 12 hour endure M3 so I had to tear down, pack and reinstall seals to get them to last. It's surprising what a little extra grease will do.... :

Judging by that bin full of Husky cylinder I saw in your video, I would imagine you are quite familiar with this model. What's the deal with the aforementioned screw? What am I missing? Is that screw supposed to just bang against the tank without some sort of isolator? I don't se anything listed and am concerned something fell out when I wasn't looking.

[weimedog]

Not buying the concept. Sealed bearings were not designed with the high heat and continuous  high rpms at that temperatures in mind.

Judging by that bin full of Husky cylinder I saw in your video, I would imagine you are quite familiar with this model. What's the deal with the aforementioned screw? What am I missing? Is that screw supposed to just bang against the tank without some sort of isolator? I don't se anything listed and am concerned something fell out when I wasn't looking.

I guess now I'm missing something... which screw? Aforementione has so many letters I get confused. Just a Highway guy.. of course it might be some English to Red Neck translation.. the last time I heard "bang" in a conversation it was either another Highway guys definition of his pipe dream or an Englishman's clarification of tolerances.  (Both usually had "up" right next to the bang though..so I'm completely confused)

[weimedog]

Ahhh... I see the screw. That is a motion limiting device. And there is no anti vibe attached. AND I have seen some with and some without that screw on the clutch side. Actually it goes ( protrudes ) into a molded "hole" on the tank/handle and is what you will end up pushing on ( Limits the travel of the suspension so to speak to a motorsports type) when you push past the limits of the vibration springs & tank/case geometry. Which is why it's not threaded or have any sharp or abrasive shapes past the threads. Its all good. Better to have it there than not. So if its not on your saw, put it there.

[kellysguy]

Crazy they would do it like that. Why put a grommet on the other side in the same location and not for the screw? Oh well, they did what they did. I guess I can stop looking under everything for it now.  :D

Are the factory seals double lipped?

(PS, no idea what you're talking about with the "bang" englishman stuff)

[kellysguy]

If you can't salvage the 365 top end, there are a bunch of good options starting with a used OEM 372 cylinder and Meteor Piston. OEM 371 single ring pistons are reasonable cost wise and run really well too.

That's the problem, my cylinder is in pretty good shape. Does the Meteor piston provide any compression rise or is it just a quality thing? On the 371 single ring, we talking new or used at a reasonable price?

Thanks.

[JohnG28]

If the cylinder is in good shape Meteor makes a good quality piston kit. They're pretty close if not as good as oem. Kits have nee piston, ring (s), wrist pin and clips. However if you go that route you should watch the clips. I believe the double ear ones supplied have let go causing a failure for some guys. I used oem clips when I put one in my Husky 350. Runs well, haven't had any issues.

[kellysguy]

My post disappeared.

Here's how I think I'm gonna go:

My cylinder

Chainsawr aftermarket crank because he said they're cryo'd

Nachi Japanes sealed bearings (one side)

"Hyway small engine" gasket and seal kit (cause I'm using sealed bearings)

Meteor Piston.

Total build should be ~$150

Did I miss anything?

[JohnG28]

Big end rod bearings?

[kellysguy]

Big end rod bearings?

The crank comes as a assembled unit with the rod and bearing already pressed in place.

[JohnG28]

Wow, head is in the clouds. Sorry, sick last couple days and a little out of it.  :

[kellysguy]

Wow, head is in the clouds. Sorry, sick last couple days and a little out of it.  :

Brother, my memory is so bad now I literally forgot more than I know. What's scary is I, was once MENSA qualified but now have the mind of a carrot ....and I'm not that old...seriously...

[kellysguy]

Reuse that little crank oring?

What about wrist pin circlips, I have a Meteor piston, use the ones that came with it or the old factory ones?