spiral grain spruce for log home

[northernss454]

Hi all I am building my second log home, my first was small and this one in much bigger. The trees I am using have lots and lots of spiral grain, like 1 in 5, now I know to use them on bottom and keep straighter ones for top tiers. The problem I am having is I will have to use the spiral grain for 1/2 the wall height or more. I have 3 rows completed. My question is am I in for a big surprise and few years down the road? Like twisting my whole cabin and making a mess. That's the local logs we have here on prairies so I am using them, they are already paid for, draw-knifed and treated so It would be a waste not to use them.  Kinda worried don't know what to do now. I will post some pics.  The only thing I was thinking is to use lots of threaded rod when I reassemble, oh they are green also.
Any advice would be great thanks all.
Another weird thing my straightest longest logs are the ones with the most spiral grain twist,I would though it would be opposite.

[beenthere]

Wish you luck.

I wouldn't expect too much from these logs. I think you should weigh the risk and the cost of correcting the situation if the logs do not behave. That is a big decision, I realize.

If the logs have been drying for a long time, then possibly the twist from drying/shrinking will have occurred, and they will not twist more.

Are they right-hand spiral, or left hand spiral?

Have you worked with spiraled logs before? Any good results from them?

[Meadows Miller]

Gday

Dad and have used 25 to 40 yo plantation grown radiata pine & D/fir down here for 20 odd years most of it has spiral grain in it (maybe 1 in 2 sometimes) and haven't had any problems  ;) ;D  8)

what sort of shell are you doing   scribe , chinked Mate  ???  stack log is the only one I'd see you having dramas with spiral grain ;) But then again if you where quick from the time you milled to getting them in the shell and used a good tie down screw system and pull it all down nice n tight it should be fine also;)

we also used tie rods from top to the sill every 4' to 6'  in the scribe and chinked shells

I look forward to seeing pics as you get it built mate  ;) ;D 8) 8)

Regards Chris

[northernss454]

No the logs are green cut in the winter of 2009, draw knifed in spring, and sealed at the ends.
The type of building is Scandinavian full scribe, over scribing as I build to keep weight on notches.
I will post some pictures today.
Thanks so far, oh they are all right grain, the other cabin I did had one lefty that lifted a bit, I used it to just see what it would do, and it did what I was told it would do, even know I used it on bottom. I have a few righties on the smaller version but no movement yet and its been over a year.

[Meadows Miller]

Gday Are you doing a relief cut in the top of the bottom log so any major checking opens into the cope as we used that aswell as the six pass method on the cope on about 15/20  shells from memory  ??? and it worked well  ;D 8) 8) you have to use the double scribe to mark the top of the bottom log tho  ;)

Regards Chris

[SwampDonkey]

My grandfather used local spruce here to build all his hunting camps. They would have been used after peeling and the sap drying on them and back then not treated. The camps he built in the 50's are still standing and being used today. There are 4 of them. Take it for what it is, an opinion. But, I believe you'll do fine.

[northernss454]

Well I bit the bullet, founds some really nice straight grained logs, so I will continue building using my spirals on bottom and finish with straight grain on top. The pictures will be coming soon, I promise.
Thanks for all the input

[TW]

Here in my area spruce is commonly used for scribed log-houses since centuries back. We avoid to mix left and right turned logs in the same wall and peg down each log with 1 1/2 inch wooden pegs at maximum 10' intervals and at both ends . The logs are normally sawn or hewn flat on inside and outside which cuts some fibers and reduces the twisting force. As the edges of the long groove make contact with the log below they also counteract twist.

Use plenty of pegs and do not over-scribe and I would be surprised if you get any problems in the first 300 years.....and after that I will not be around any more to get surprised ;D

[stumpy]

I came across a building code for Log homes in Canada.  I remember it being stated in there that there that left and right spiral logs have different acceptable uses.  One of them(I don't remember which) was significantly lower rated in terms of strength.

[SwampDonkey]

Right spiral I have read is usually in old growth softwood timber. I have also seen spiral in old sitka and red spruces, always seems to the right. I know red spruce is tough stuff.

[northernss454]

thanks guys I am already at 3 courses, and I have been over-scribing more than usuastarted about 3/8" of an inch l, I thought it would help, as the notches would stay tighter and keep logs from twisting. Oh well too late now I will have to wait the test of time to see. I was going to use treaded rods right thru all the courses of logs, every 6 feet, I am hoping that will help more than pegs, but maybe I should do both!!  I will keep everyone updated, as time goes on.
Keep the comments coming I enjoys everyones input.

[Rig]

I work with Sitka spruce, which around here have about one of four being a severe spiral.

I've found the old adage to hold true that the right-hand spirals don't cause as much problem. The left-hand spirals are good only for firewood.

Many log homes around here have high percentage of spiral-grained logs, which don't appear to be causing problems. But do limit spirals to only those having a right hand twist, just to be sure.