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clamping short stock on mill

Started by dovetails, October 07, 2011, 06:32:59 PM

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dovetails

I remember seeing where someone used pipe clamps to hold short
pieces on mill to cut them, anyone recall who it was so I can find the post?
Got some short (firewood) logs I want to slice up. Or any other methods
to do it would be nice too.Like a jig to hold the short pieces solid. Thanks!
1984 wm lt30,ford 3000 w/frt lift,several chain saws, 1953 model 30 Vermeer stump grinder,full wood working shop, log home in the woods what more ya need?

hilltop

I made one for my WM LT 40 i can cut just about anything you can hold round knots & burls or even stand your wood blocks up and cut wood wheels ;), i dont have any pictures yet just got it finished will try to have pictures next week. 8)

Banjo picker

 



I ordered an extra stop when I ordered the mill...Tim
Never explain, your friends don't need it, and your enemies won't believe you any way.

Coon

I have been thinking of just making myself  a couple more stops and another dog for my Norwood too, because of the short wood thing.  I would like to be able to load two short logs at a time and saw them both before I have to load the mill again. 
Norwood Lumbermate 2000 w/Kohler,
Husqvarna, Stihl and, Jonsereds Saws

zopi

Couple of two by fours to sit on the mill, which can be clamped in the dogs...a couple of notched four by fours bolted across the two bys...pipe clamps sit in the notches bolted to it...maybe some short spikes in the jaws to keep the victim from rocking out of the cradle...
I wind up with alot of chunks and trunk rounds with spalt or interesting grain that I would like to be able to recover for turning stock...without noodling with a chainsaw...
Got Wood?
LT-15G GO chassis added.
WM sharpener and setter
And lots of junk.

dovetails

Hilltop, I will be waiting to see those photos,I have an lt30 so should
work for mine too.
Tim, I can hold a short piece now, but can only saw about half way
down it cause the clamp gets in the way.On a big log, when I flip it
over, don't need to have it clamped any more,it stays put. Need a
way to grab the little ones from the ends to hold them steady.
Zopi, that sounds like what I need to make,I know I have seen a photo
of something like that on here,but I can't find it now. Warning, on search,
do not type in sawing short logs! To many results! every time sawing,or logs is
mentioned,it's a result..
1984 wm lt30,ford 3000 w/frt lift,several chain saws, 1953 model 30 Vermeer stump grinder,full wood working shop, log home in the woods what more ya need?

zopi

I have in mind the same photo you do...maybe it is in the sawmill mods thread...
Got Wood?
LT-15G GO chassis added.
WM sharpener and setter
And lots of junk.

Chuck White

Seems to me there was a post a couple of weeks ago where the sawyer used pipe clamps to hold a cant down so it would not bow up.

He would have a series of clamps holding the cant and he'd saw until he got to a clamp, stop and remove that clamp, then advance a little, stop and reinstall the clamp and so-on until the cant was finished.

Seems like quite a bother, but if you have a hi-value cant on the mill, you don't want to get thick-n-thin lumber out of it.

This might be the post that dovetails is thinking of.
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

zopi

Nahh...this was from a few years back...was an arrangement of pipe clamps parrallel to the deck...sort of like the set of notched boards you would set the clamps in to glue up a panel on a benchtop...just a bit more rigid...lol
Got Wood?
LT-15G GO chassis added.
WM sharpener and setter
And lots of junk.

dovetails

Zopi's got the right idea, ya don't get much bow in a log 1-2 foot long.
Just needing a good way to clamp it from the ends so it don't jump
off when the blade hits it. Thinking pipe clamp on the bottom,so I can
saw almost all the way thru the log.I can do about 1/2 way thru using
the clamp on mill,but if I can clamp from the ends, should be able to get
almost to the bottom of the log.Pipe clamps would only reach up about
2 inches at most,and would probabley need a little spike to hold tight,so
I could saw down to about 3 inches from bottom,with out the clamp being
in the way.  Just trying to get different ideas on how to mount the pipe
clamp the easyiest to use way,and still have it hold solid.
1984 wm lt30,ford 3000 w/frt lift,several chain saws, 1953 model 30 Vermeer stump grinder,full wood working shop, log home in the woods what more ya need?

zopi

Guess my next mill project is to hack one together...lol...got some spalted maple round I need to bust up...
Got Wood?
LT-15G GO chassis added.
WM sharpener and setter
And lots of junk.

dovetails

Just made a quick setup.  2 - 4x4x36, with a 2x4 laying flat between
them,so I have a 3 1/2"gap,making a trough. 2 pieces of 3/8 all-thread
rod,drilled holes through the 4x4's to mount a bar clamp in the gap,end wise.
The whole thing sets on the bunks, and the mill clamp holds it tight to the stops.
Set the small log in the trough,tighten up the bar clamp, and start cutting.
First pass was a little to fast, tryed to pull the piece out of clamp, so after
drilling a hole in the clamp for a nail to go into log end,and slowing down the
feed a bit, I just cut off 6 - 1/4 "boards" from a piece of chery "firewood".
Works pretty good so far. Fire wood pile LOOK OUT !  Got to be sure to save enough for heating this winter though! lol
1984 wm lt30,ford 3000 w/frt lift,several chain saws, 1953 model 30 Vermeer stump grinder,full wood working shop, log home in the woods what more ya need?

zopi

Just think how pretty your firewood would be split on the mill...
Got Wood?
LT-15G GO chassis added.
WM sharpener and setter
And lots of junk.

Ironwood

I typically use heavy plate steel to make jigs for the log bunks. I bridged two bunks to cut "wood cookies" used 3/4 plate 24"x 50+", welded on a few stops and slotted for the hold down HEAVY :o gotta use the forklift to place it, but it DOESNT move.

Today I built camming hold downs for the first 4 bunks. I need to resaw some reclaimed 2x stock. Factory set up was too time consuming and did not cut low enough to get them exactly in half. I will get a pic. Beveled 1"  thick disk is from some piece of "farm equipment" counter weight (I have a bunch laying around). The pivot is from the oily hole in the pic. The slot was already in in the disk as was the hole(s). I made 5/8ths bar stock pivot from the bottom so the "handle is always ready to use, flip up into slot/flip down out of the way. Disks were thicker than I wanted to use, but shimming the little bit was better than modifying the disk or cutting new ones



Ironwood  







There is no scarcity of opportunity to make a living at what you love to do, there is only scarcity of resolve to make it happen.- Wayne Dyer

dovetails

Quote from: zopi on October 08, 2011, 07:13:29 PM
Just think how pretty your firewood would be split on the mill...

Thats how I prepare Gum. I make 6x6 beams then cut to fit in stove,
stacks real neat too! Ever try to split dry gum with a splitter? lol
1984 wm lt30,ford 3000 w/frt lift,several chain saws, 1953 model 30 Vermeer stump grinder,full wood working shop, log home in the woods what more ya need?

zopi

I avoid sweetgum like the plague...occasionally have to deal with it...it sure does make a pretty bonfire...
Got Wood?
LT-15G GO chassis added.
WM sharpener and setter
And lots of junk.

Magicman

Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

hilltop

I have pictuers but i can not get them to post, i am not good at this  :-\

hilltop

Got a few ninutes to try it out today seems to work pretty good, i will try to upload some pictures,
I just welded 2X2 square tube to the ends of the niddle bunks and made a removeable plate that fits on the clamp with another 2X2 on it, cut some 2X2 wood stakes (stops) whatever length you need use some boards for deck and some short boards for the back stop then you can cut right throu the stakes (stops) and even the back board you will have a lot of small scrap but you can cut just about anything if you are careful.

















































SwampDonkey did a little editing. ;)

beenthere

Quote from: hilltop on October 09, 2011, 11:27:00 AM
Got a few ninutes to try it out today seems to work pretty good, .............

Put in a "carriage return" after each pic URL so the pics align under each other, and a space between each to separate them. They will present much better. Thanks for the good pics.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

redbeard

Nice work Hilltop, The sacrificing stops is a great idea especially cutting the curves. Thanks
Whidbey Woodworks and Custom Milling  2019 Cooks AC 3662T High production band mill and a Hud-son 60 Diesel wide cut bandmill  JD 2240 50hp Tractor with 145 loader IR 1044 all terrain fork lift  Cooks sharp

Magicman

Quote from: beenthere on October 09, 2011, 01:09:51 PM
Put in a "carriage return" after each pic URL so the pics align under each other, and a space between each to separate them.

And then you can type what is going on in each picture in that space.  Sometimes those picture descriptions help folks to understand.

That sacrificial support/clamp idea is really thinking.  I like it.   smiley_idea
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

hilltop

I don't know much about posting pictures so i am lucky i got this far  :D

hilltop

Thank you SwampDonkey that looks so much better ! wish i  could do it, I am not too good on the PC :(

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