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introduction and question

Started by kenlt30, February 14, 2012, 01:26:05 PM

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kenlt30

Hello-I'm new to the forum, have a 1999 WM lt30hdg25 located in East Tn.
My question is regarding the hydraulic power strip. Frequently I have to use steel wool or light sandpaper on the strip due to the pits caused by arcing. Also I have cleaned and adjusted both contacts, checked connections, etc. The Interstate battery (fairly new) stays charged. It is rated at 140 reserve amps. At times I lose all power until I move the head an inch or so. Thanks in advance for any tips.

mad murdock

Welcome to the Forestry Forum kenlt30!  Great place to be.  I have no experience with the WM mills, or the specific issue you are having with it.  On other pieces of equipment that I have maintained over the years, some applications have required electrical conductive grease, to help maintain good contact, and preclude corrosion from causing contact issues.  I am sure someone more familiar with your specific issue will be along shortly with good information for your problem. 
Turbosawmill M6 (now M8) Warrior Ultra liteweight, Granberg Alaskan III, lots of saws-gas powered and human powered :D

Magic Smoke

Welcome kenlt30.
The positive contact button that rides with the head needs to be adjusted closer to the contact strip. The bracket that holds the contact has adjustment slots for making adjustments, eventually the contact button gets worn to a point that it needs replacing.The button is spring loaded and should have some tension on it when in contact with the strip. Don't put any grease on it or it will collect sawdust like a magnet.
Hope this helps.

west penn

  I just had the same problem on my lt30hd. I made a new contact block because the old one was wore down to the bolts, although I think the biggest problem was where the cable went into the block. It was corroded pretty bad and you could see where it had been arcing  inside the hole around the cable.  I cut a half inch off the cable and put it back together. works fine now.  Hope this helps.

customsawyer

You have the answers to your questions already but I can still welcome you to the forum.
Two LT70s, Nyle L200 kiln, 4 head Pinheiro planer, 30" double surface Cantek planer, Lucas dedicated slabber, Slabmizer, and enough rolling stock and chainsaws to keep it all running.
www.thecustomsawyer.com

Chuck White

Welcome to the Forestry Forum KenLT30.

I had that same issue with my contact strip a couple of years ago.

I notice it was arching, so I put a little more tension on the adjustment bolt springs.

Later I noticed it again, so then I quit using the hydraulics while the sawhead was still moving.

No problems since then.

NOTE: I don't know if it says anywhere in the book:
"Do not operate the hydraulics while the sawhead is moving",
I never think to ask when I'm talking with a WM rep.
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

kenlt30

Thanks for the tips. I have adjusted the + contact already.
I'll try the method Chuck suggested, let the head stop before moving the hd levers.

JFarmer

If that dont work you could do like i did and bypass the contact strip. Now I can work my hydaulics from either end and I dont have to worry about corrosion  problems anymore, and it saves some time from running the head back to unclamp a cant.
LT40 electric,woodmizer twin blade edger,cooks catclaw sharpener,suffolk setter, john deere 450 dozer, case 90xt skidsteer, 7010 4x4 mahindra tractor

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