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Re-tipping Peterson Blade.

Started by Qweaver, October 10, 2017, 12:28:18 PM

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Qweaver

Got a 40" x 30' oak to saw.  But my blades need re-tipped.  We cleaned out the man cave and now I can't find the tips or silver solder.  Is there a way to get them here in the States?  I note that the manual says not to get the blade to red heat so it must be using a low temp silver solder. Any Peterson owners have advice on obtaining tips and the correct solder?  I'll try calling NZ but may not be able to get them today.

I appreciate any help.  We'd like to saw this week if I can get my blades fixed.
So Many Toys...So Little Time  WM LT28 , 15 trailers, Case 450 Dozer, John Deere 110 TLB, Peterson WPF 10",  AIM Grapple, Kubota 2501 :D

terrifictimbersllc

Left Coast Supplies sells Peterson parts in the US.  www.leftcoastsupplies.com

As far as I know the retipping tips which Peterson supplies are a bit wider than the ones on the blade. Their use is for keeping going longer in a pinch.   As far as I know retipping of a blade in the saw shop is followed by grinding including the sides.
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

Qweaver

Alright, found the tips and the tips had enough buttered silver that all bonded well with no more silver needed.  I may have to dress a couple of them for length but I should be sawing shortly. The book says to stay below red heat but I had to get dull red to get good bonding.   The jig worked OK but not worth the $700+ that it cost.  I should have just built one.   The silver that I have on hand is 1200 deg +  and I think it would work OK...but I did not need it. 
So Many Toys...So Little Time  WM LT28 , 15 trailers, Case 450 Dozer, John Deere 110 TLB, Peterson WPF 10",  AIM Grapple, Kubota 2501 :D

Qweaver

In my haste to get back to sawing...I missed one tip.  I have the other blade to re-tip and I'll get the missed one on after I finish it.  Worked really well actually.  Cleaning out the old solder is critical I think.
So Many Toys...So Little Time  WM LT28 , 15 trailers, Case 450 Dozer, John Deere 110 TLB, Peterson WPF 10",  AIM Grapple, Kubota 2501 :D

JRWoodchuck

A guy in my area sharpens my table saw/ chop saw blades and re-tips them when necessary. Might call a couple cabinet shops to see if some like that is around your area.
Home built bandsaw mill still trying find the owners manual!

scsmith42

You can buy replacement tips from Payne's saw shop.
Peterson 10" WPF with 65' of track
Smith - Gallagher dedicated slabber
Tom's 3638D Baker band mill
and a mix of log handling heavy equipment.

mad murdock

I have a Turbosawmill.blades are similar to other swing blades. I built a retipping jig, which worked ok. I havemilled about 30 mbf since getting my mill going this year. I find it well worth the 20 bucks to have the saw shop do it, they charge me 5 bucks per carbide to retip. Blades come out better, and performance is better than new.
Turbosawmill M6 (now M8) Warrior Ultra liteweight, Granberg Alaskan III, lots of saws-gas powered and human powered :D

Qweaver

I took my blade to a saw shop here in WV and he charge $75 and I supplied the tips AND he put them on backwards.  I would like to use a saw shop if I could find one that did good work in my area.
So Many Toys...So Little Time  WM LT28 , 15 trailers, Case 450 Dozer, John Deere 110 TLB, Peterson WPF 10",  AIM Grapple, Kubota 2501 :D

Savannahdan

I have 5 blades still in boxes that were re-tipped and balanced at 21 Saw Shop in Van Buren, Missouri, (573) 323-8585.  They don't have a website that I'm aware of.  Just another option.
Husqvarna 3120XP, Makita DCS7901 Chainsaw, 30" & 56" Granberg Chain Saw Mill, Logosol M8 Farmers Mill

scsmith42

Paynes and Menominee both do great work (the latter is a FF sponsor); I have used them both.

Nowaday's I use Precision Saw in Polkton, NC.  They stop by the farm every Thursday and pick up my old blades and drop off the sharpened / repaired ones.  The work that they have done on the Peterson blades is outstanding.
Peterson 10" WPF with 65' of track
Smith - Gallagher dedicated slabber
Tom's 3638D Baker band mill
and a mix of log handling heavy equipment.

firefighter

I get mine re tipped in Quebec the owner of the shop picks them up and returns them for 4.50 a tip .Peterson sells them for 4.50  I think and then you have to pay the shipping .I am get a great deal and he does a great job .

terrifictimbersllc

I've semt them to Sharp Tool Co, Hudson MA, and to BH Payne at a location in Georgia. Always a good job with both.
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

ButchC

Just about to the point of needing a re tip for my Peterosn JP. Anyone know of a reputable shop in Ohio?
Peterson JP swing mill
Morbark chipper
Shop built firewood processor
Case W11B
Many chainsaws, axes, hatchets,mauls,
Antique tractors and engines, machine shop,wife, dog,,,,,that's about it.

Tim

Quote from: firefighter on October 11, 2017, 09:47:36 PM
I get mine re tipped in Quebec the owner of the shop picks them up and returns them for 4.50 a tip .Peterson sells them for 4.50  I think and then you have to pay the shipping .I am get a great deal and he does a great job .

Ideal Sharpening firefighter? Gino has one of my saws atm. I'm looking forward to getting it back to see the difference of how it worked to how it works now.

This fellow might be able to help you out Qweaver... http://senecasaw.com/ He's in the Finger Lakes area of NY.
Eastern White Cedar Shingles

MbfVA

Our Kasco dealer member Cutting Edge told me he thought he could do re-tipping, and he is in NW West VA--perhaps near you?  He told me he is a certified welder.
www.ordinary.com (really)

MbfVA

I believe Turbosaw (Jake Peterson) has or is coming out with a swing blade whose tips bolt on.  Not cheap though.  Might be Simonds (sp?) brand?

Net prices on his mills seemed to take a big jump recently so maybe he plans to include something new like that?

My Dougherty tree saw attachment for my SLL has replaceable carbide teeth, about $25 each.  Nice thing about these is that they can be turned three times before replacement.  Maybe they can be sharpened, will see when the time comes.
www.ordinary.com (really)

Ianab

It's also possible to run insert teeth on a swing blade, and they can be swapped out with a hand tool. Down side is your kerf is slightly bigger. They are usually only recommended if you are remote and don't have access to a good saw doc. While the insert teeth cost a little more, you don't have to pay to replace them, so that kinda evens out.
Weekend warrior, Peterson JP test pilot, Dolmar 7900 and Stihl MS310 saws and  the usual collection of power tools :)

Qweaver

 We got the log centered this AM and started sawing.  Cut about 1/3 of the 40" log  by making 2 5" horz. cuts and then a 2" vert release cut.  Became harder to push so I stopped and sharpened and that helped some but still can not make an easy 2 pass cut to 10"  2" release cut also gets hard toward the end of the cut.  I believe the retip is good.  My kerf is as narrow as ever.  I think I can do this job with 3 horz cuts to 10" but it will be slow and difficult.
HANDS IN THE AIR! I am having a hard time figuring out how to do the vertical criss-cross, so I have not done that.
The manual graphics are hazy and hard to decipher.
Quinton
So Many Toys...So Little Time  WM LT28 , 15 trailers, Case 450 Dozer, John Deere 110 TLB, Peterson WPF 10",  AIM Grapple, Kubota 2501 :D

woodyone.john

Quinton,I remember once sawing a large cotton wood with my early model 10" wpf. It turned out to be a very hard job due to minimal clearance [set] on the teeth and because it was a slightly bent tree/log. I later found out that that tension/compression wood cuts but leaves fibres [fuzz] like a fresh shorn sheep on the cut face.With minimal set these acted like a major brake on the saw.Circle saws need more set than band saws. to adjust in the horizontal plane [fore and aft] on mine you adjust a set of bolts at the front of the saw frame that the saw and motor sit on.Is it the front of the saw leaving the tooth marks or the back. Take some deep breaths and take 1/8 inch cut up the log,check the pattern.keep working your way across the log and you should have a good planar surface. then with the blade not quite touching the log you will be able to tell which way you need to adjust or if you are out some where else not just fore and aft. I hope you can understand my goboldy gook explanation.hang in there buddy you will sort it. cheers john
Saw millers are just carpenters with bigger bits of wood

mad murdock

Qweaver, I know you don't have a turbosawmill, but the concept for setup is the same with any swingblade, though the adjustment points on each head may be different.  Jake has an awesome app called swingblade in the googleplay store, and available from a link on his website for apple products.  It has helped me immensely in setting up my saw quickly and also diagnosing issues as i go along.  It may be of help to your situation.  He also has some very good videos that he has put up on the subject of setup and how to read the cut with a swingblade to determine what type of adjustments to do, to get things singing smoothly.
Turbosawmill M6 (now M8) Warrior Ultra liteweight, Granberg Alaskan III, lots of saws-gas powered and human powered :D

Qweaver

Both the Horz and vert cross hatch are well adjusted now.  I am thinking that the blade tips are the only thing left to blame.  But the kerf looks narrow and other than increasing the relief on the top and sides, what can I do? Grasping at straws here.
So Many Toys...So Little Time  WM LT28 , 15 trailers, Case 450 Dozer, John Deere 110 TLB, Peterson WPF 10",  AIM Grapple, Kubota 2501 :D

Don P

Has the trouble just been with this log or is it widespread? I've had logs with stress release during cuts, bow the cant and rise into the saw. Usually with that the cutting is fine until you are between bunks or beyond the last bunk. To check that you can make a max depth horizontal cut, come out, walk back without a vertical cut, then go in for another horizontal cut and see if you are in the first kerf or following a new path. If so the log is moving during cut and rubbing the plate.

terrifictimbersllc

Can you tell why the cuts are hard to make?  After a given cut, with the saw off, can you push the blade back and forth through the kerf freely? if not why not?
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

Qweaver

Hi Don and TT.   I have not tried pushing the saw back thru the grove but I will.  It seems to be cutting a perfect grove...not too wide .  The lean in is just as the manual shows, as is cross cut vert and horz.  I'm thinking it is a re tipping problem...but I can not see how.  I am about to call Chris at Peterson and see if he can make a suggestion.
So Many Toys...So Little Time  WM LT28 , 15 trailers, Case 450 Dozer, John Deere 110 TLB, Peterson WPF 10",  AIM Grapple, Kubota 2501 :D

scsmith42

Quinton, check your track alignment on both sides with a string, and then check the center to center distance on the rails.

Sometimes if the track on the loading side of the Saw gets out of alignment it can cause the problem that you describe in your vertical cut.

Also, what tooth count is your blade? They make different ones for hard versus soft wood.
Peterson 10" WPF with 65' of track
Smith - Gallagher dedicated slabber
Tom's 3638D Baker band mill
and a mix of log handling heavy equipment.

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