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Chainsaw file sizes

Started by CCC4, March 01, 2016, 11:15:56 AM

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CCC4

I have been running a particular size for over 20 years now...I think I am going to make a switch. Anyone want to give a good versus discussion on 7/32 vs 13/64?

HolmenTree

As long as I can remember going back over 40 years,  a 3/8" chain was filed with a 7/32" file from new. Then when the cutters were filed back halfways the smaller 13/64" file was then recommended  to be used. That was standard with Oregon, Stihl, Windsor and Carlton .
But about 15 years ago or so with all the complaints for years that the Stihl chain was hard to file my reasoning  is, Stihl then factory ground their 3/8 chain to accept the 13/64" file enabling easier filing with the smaller diameter, then just file the whole cutter with that one size.
Their. 404 is still  7/32" spec.
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

CCC4

Reason for my question is I have been using 13/64. I always thought that the smaller file gave a better over hang. The other day I had no file and I had a new 7/32 I thought I would give a try. I was suprised that I felt as if I was cutting faster, smoother and less grab. I sharpen fairly aggressively and did the same with the 7/32. I am not half through the chain yet but everyday I brag on how well it is cutting. I seem to be able to really lay on the cut and not pull the saw down. The chips are large and look really nice.

I was just wondering if it could be the change in the over hang due to the larger file, or just what it is that I am experiencing.

lumberjack48

 With the 13/64 your filing a little to deep, casing the cutter to get to much hook. And if your running your rakers a little to low with to much hook your going to lose rpm and the saw wants to grab the wood instead of making a smooth cut.
It just happened to be when you used the 7/32 file the rakers were the right hight. When everything is right, just the right hook and the rakers the right hight you get a smooth cut no matter what size file you use.
You can get the same smooth cut with the 13/64, just watch how much hook your putting on the cutter.
I used a 5/32 file on a 3/8 chain for the last five years i worked. The saw cut like a hot butter knife and as smooth as a new Ford LTD.
When i was sawing 4" wood or 20" wood the rpm was the same, 13000 to 14000 with my 034 Super. If your saw loses rpm in the cut your losing the race. :o
   
Third generation logger, owner operator, 30 yrs felling experience with pole skidder. I got my neck broke back in 89, left me a quad. The wife kept the job going up to 96.

CCC4

lumberjack48, I think you are right, I put so much effort into achieving my hook that I may very well be going too deep in the cutter. You know how I like an agro chain, that combined with the low rakers is dragging my saw. The 7/32 must have been curving some of that and regaining my RPMs. Next chain I am going to go back to the 13/64 and try to hold it higher I guess.

ALWOL

   Try square filing with a double-bevel and you'll never go back to round files. I've been cutting with square filed chains for almost a year now, chain stays sharper lots longer in hardwood, and cuts a lot smoother, less grabby.
There's a big difference between staying busy and making money.

CR888

Lumberjack48 hit the nail on the head. Too much hook will hamper performance and make a rough cutting experience for chain, sprocket, saw & operator. It effects your inner top plate angle, making it too sharp, grabby and will dull quickly. Hardwood exaggerates this. Some good diagrams are found in the 'Carlton Filing Manual' it can be downloaded in PDF form.

John Mc

Quote from: ALWOL on March 01, 2016, 11:20:38 PM
   Try square filing with a double-bevel and you'll never go back to round files. I've been cutting with square filed chains for almost a year now, chain stays sharper lots longer in hardwood, and cuts a lot smoother, less grabby.

I didn't realize square-filed chain was supposed to stay sharp longer. My experience was just the opposite. I tried one loop, and had it resharpened square till it was used up (didn't trust myself to get it right, but wanted to try some to see if it was worth learning to sharpen it). I noticed it cut a bit faster than round-filed, but it didn't stay sharp as long - at least not for me. So I never tried another loop.  IF I cut more regularly, I might try it again.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

CCC4

I had some loops sent to me from the Left Coast, they were square ground. I don't think I can sharpen like that on the stump several times a day...and my boss would have a heart attack if I asked for 10 loops to pack around! Lol!

CTYank

Nobody's yet mentioned HOW they file the cutters.

Easiest way I've found over the years: Granberg guide, set up carefully. With that guide it's trivial to set the ht of the file relative to the cutters. I use the widely-recommended setting of 1/5 file diameter above the cutter tops. They cut very well and stay sharp. No grabbing or lurching. Depth gauges .025" down.

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