iDRY Vacuum Kilns

Sponsors:

OK tried my first 4 degree blades.

Started by derhntr, June 03, 2016, 09:56:40 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Bandmill Bandit

I have been told by my woodmizer rep and friend that he will not sell me 4* or 7* untill I own a mill that has a minimum of 38HP. Says he knows of no other sawyer that runs the mill right at the point of ZERO torque rise available to the mill like I do.
Skilled Master Sawyer. "Skilled labour don't come cheap. Cheap labour dont come skilled!
2018 F150 FX4, Husqvarna 340, 2 Logright 36 inch cant hooks and a bunch of stuff I built myself

ladylake

 
The fact is that 4° cut straighter when pushing hard in tough wood  than 10° blades do. .  Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

bandmiller2

Dang, I have never tried 4's, my old Cats claw has been set for 6 degrees for years. After many grindings my 1 1/2" bands start to dive and dodge knots maybe a 4 degree would allow a couple more sharpening's.  Anyone here had good luck with 0 degrees hook, that would pretty much act like a scraper. Really it takes an accurate tool to pick up a degree or two on a band. I use a LS Starett protractor head with a white paper background and leave a small gap between the tool and tooth. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

dgdrls


I would expect little to no cutting progress with 0* 

What I have garnered from this thread is what most band manufactures have advocated.
In general softer woods cut better with more hook angle, harder saws better with less.

D











WV Sawmiller

dgdrls,

   Yes but the problem is those dang knots causing inconsistencies in the wood density making blades want to jump and ripple. I've said before if I could only take one blade to a job I'd take a 4 degree. I am slowly phasing out my 7 & 10 degree blades and will scrap my test turbo 7's. My problem is I will have to use up the others on my own stock because I don't want to mess up a customer's wood and use 4 degree blades almost exclusively there. I just got a new box of them delivered Tuesday.
Howard Green
WM LT35HDG25(2015) , 2011 4WD F150 Ford Lariat PU, Kawasaki 650 ATV, Stihl 440 Chainsaw, homemade logging arch (w/custom built rear log dolly), JD 750 w/4' wide Bushhog brand FEL

Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once

Deese

I tried one of my -4°blades the other day with 5 people watching. They don't cut too well. Had blade on backwards  :D
2004 LT40 Super 51hp w/6' bed extension
Cooks AE4P Edger
Cat Claw sharpener/Dual Tooth Setter
Kubota svl75-2 skidsteer w/grapple, forks, brushcutter
1977 Log Hog Knuckleboom loader/truck

Ga Mtn Man

I love the smell of burning blades in the morning. 
"If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy." - Red Green


2012 LT40HDG29 with "Superized" hydraulics,  2 LogRite cant hooks, home-built log arch.

Ox

Tell those folks you like to back lap the teeth for a keener edge and a better overall sawing experience.

If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, baffle them with bull$%!*.
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

ladylake

Quote from: bandmiller2 on September 01, 2017, 07:28:09 AM
Dang, I have never tried 4's, my old Cats claw has been set for 6 degrees for years. After many grindings my 1 1/2" bands start to dive and dodge knots maybe a 4 degree would allow a couple more sharpening's.  Anyone here had good luck with 0 degrees hook, that would pretty much act like a scraper. Really it takes an accurate tool to pick up a degree or two on a band. I use a LS Starett protractor head with a white paper background and leave a small gap between the tool and tooth. Frank C.


  Frank    I tried 0° once, didn't cut good.  I don't try and measure the hook on my blades just set the sharpener wheel at 4°.   Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

bandmiller2

Thanks Steve, I have found that as the grinding wheels wear they tend to give less hook as they wear up the side of the wheel. When we dress the wheels mostly we just radius for the gullet. It would be wasteful to dress the wheel back enough to keep the side of the wheel perfectly straight. I think if most folks accurately checked the hook on the band it would be ball park but not right over home plate. But again if bands are cutting well why change things, most folks would do better with less hook anyways. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

ladylake

 
The curve on the face of tooth from wear on the wheel is why its hard to measure with a protractor. I think the hook angle is still there right at the tip of the tooth as the wheel is wearing at the bottom also bringing  the side of the wheel down with it.  After sharpening hold the blade together in the middle with the teeth close to each other then you can see the hook is still there right on the tip of the tooth. Once in a while I take a little off the bottom of the wheel but not very often.  . They cut as good or better than new .  Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

OlJarhead

Speaking of 4 degree bands I had this experience:  in wide cuts they cut flat vs. 10 degree bands 'crowning' in wide cuts.

I was 21" boards out of big doug firs for a customer and noticed the crown which I've seen on wide cuts before.  Didn't seem to matter if I ran slower either.  Then i switched to 4's and they were flat as could be!  Loved seeing that.

I use 4's for big logs and hard woods and 10's for my backup band (since I have about 45 10's I kinda gotta use them up).  I think the 10's are faster than the 4's but slower than the turbo 7's but they work fine for 8"-18" logs where CANT sizes are 12" or less typically.  Push them up into the 20-24" CANTs and they don't last long and can crown.

I plan to reduce my 10 degree stock down to about 15 bands in the future and up my 4's by a LOT.  I'll have some Turbo's on hand I think but am not sure how much I'll use yet without more testing.

one problem I have is too many choices! lol.  I need more band boxes to keep them separate!
2016 LT40HD26 and Mahindra 5010 W/FEL WM Hundred Thousand BF Club Member

Magicman

It's easy to get caught up into "chasing blades".  On a regular basis, I try to limit my choice to two.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

bandmiller2

There are so many old wives tales and opinions about band mills its hard to separate the grain from the chaff. You really just have to try something on your own mill regardless of what is written. Small thin kerf band mills are a fairly new thing, most started out as manually pushed where hook angle makes feeding easier. Most folks are better off with less hook, at least try it. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

WDH

Like the Goat Man, I run 4° in all wood.  They cut the SYP just fine. 
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

customsawyer

This is why I take all of my blades to 4° when I sharpen them. I like the cutting speed you get from the profile of the deeper gullet in the 7/39 and the 7/40 but taking them to 4°minimizes your headaches. 
Two LT70s, Nyle L200 kiln, 4 head Pinheiro planer, 30" double surface Cantek planer, Lucas dedicated slabber, Slabmizer, and enough rolling stock and chainsaws to keep it all running.
www.thecustomsawyer.com

4x4American

Quote from: customsawyer on September 22, 2017, 06:41:33 AM
This is why I take all of my blades to 4° when I sharpen them. I like the cutting speed you get from the profile of the deeper gullet in the 7/39 and the 7/40 but taking them to 4°minimizes your headaches.


I don't see why no one makes a 4/40 or something and it's just the end-all of blades. 
Boy, back in my day..

gmmills


 


Quote from: 4x4American on September 22, 2017, 07:25:31 PM



I don't see why no one makes a 4/40 or something and it's just the end-all of blades. 

   
    There is not, as of yet, a production 4/40 blade. On a positive note, there is a CBN wheel available to re-profile the Kasco 7/40 profile to a 4/40 profile. It maintains the original gullet depth of 7/40 only changes the hook angle back to 4 deg.  I use the re-profiled 4/40 in very tough to cut species, seasoned W.Oak or Hickory, with great results. It definitely out performs a WM 4/32 in these sawing conditions hands down.
Custom sawing full-time since 2000. 
WM LT70D62 Remote with Accuset
Sawing since 1995

4x4American

One day I'll get a cbn sharpner...but until then I'm gonna keep using the kitty committee bandsaw blade tickler
Boy, back in my day..

barbender

Too many irons in the fire

Thank You Sponsors!