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Wood silo staves

Started by michiganmilkman, March 22, 2019, 05:44:12 PM

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michiganmilkman

Hello im looking to make some wood silo staves. Which planer would be best to get on a budget?  There going to be 2×6 pressure treated tounge and groove. But I need to have a bevel in them so they go round when put together. Thanks Rob

doc henderson

what diameter and height.  the planer can get the faces flat, might need a jointer to bevel the edges.  tongue and grove and a bevel might need a jig on a router table.  if it is a large diam, the angle will be very small. or just bevel the grove side to fit the tongue side being flat.  grizzly used to be cheap but heavy built stuff, with the tariff added, they are not as cheap
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

dgdrls

What do you plan to put in a PT silo?  watertight?

Best

D

michiganmilkman

16x40 is the size.  I have a few old staves to copy from. Im using ag bags to store silage now.  And the plastic waste is terrible. 

Don P

I'd see if there is a woodshop nearby with a molder, next choice would be a 15" planer and a shaper, preferably with a power feed then have knives ground for your beveled tongue and groove. There are also convex/concave router bits and shaper knives for making hot tubs that might work and have a greater range of diameters.

PT and silage... I'd check with extension first.

GAB

Quote from: michiganmilkman on March 22, 2019, 06:27:37 PM
16x40 is the size.  I have a few old staves to copy from. Im using ag bags to store silage now.  And the plastic waste is terrible.
With ag bags you can feed from two or more of them at one time and mix your feed.  With a silo that is one option that is not available to you.  Also cilmbing silos gets old fast as you gain in age.
You need to weigh climbing silos versus getting rid of plastic.
Silos are a taxable item ag bags are not.
GAB
W-M LT40HDD34, SLR, JD 420, JD 950w/loader and Woods backhoe, V3507 Fransguard winch, Cordwood Saw, 18' flat bed trailer, and other toys.

Southside

Not sure you will have favorable results as most PT does not penetrate very deep into the wood and you may end up with non treated lumber exposed which won't last long, not to mention the issues of PT dust, shavings, etc.  Do you have access to white oak or black locust?  

I would recommend hiring out the moulding to someone with a 4 sided machine, there is a lot that can go wrong doing just one face at a time and if you NEED a good fit it could become an issue. 
Franklin buncher and skidder
JD Processor
Woodmizer LT Super 70 and LT35 sawmill, KD250 kiln, BMS 250 sharpener and setter
Riehl Edger
Woodmaster 725 and 4000 planner and moulder
Enough cows to ensure there is no spare time.
White Oak Meadows

doc henderson

I assume you will use augers to fill and remove.  16 foot diameter and 40 tall?  How wide and thick are the boards?  You may not need to taper at all.  do you plan to surround with a threaded rod?  would not need to be water tight right? the circumference is 50 feet, if you used 6 " wide boards it would take 100 boards, with a 1.8° angle on each edge.  Look @Magicman I used the degree symbol! 8) 
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

GeneWengert-WoodDoc

Except for one seldom used preservative chemical, all the preservatives used in wood cannot have food contact.

Planing and moulding PT wood requires extensive control of the chips and dust.  They cannot be burned or used in soil.  The only disposal is in some commercial landfills.  Of course, you will need disposalable clothing and good breathing apparatus.  

So, you really need to mould before treating.  But this is an issue, as the wood would need to be dry somewhat to mould it, then water is added during treatment which will swell the wood and change the size, and then subsequent drying can result in warp and maybe enough shrinkage to create gaps between the staves even with t&g.

Have you figured out the total weight of wood?  Will the species be able to carry all the weight?  Do you also know the required thickness for the chosen species and how many hoops you need and how often you will need to adjust them?
Gene - Author of articles in Sawmill & Woodlot and books: Drying Hardwood Lumber; VA Tech Solar Kiln; Sawing Edging & Trimming Hardwood Lumber. And more

Don P

Just curious, around here if not bagging they have I think all gone to pit silos. I have wondered, if we can do it safely at ground level how did it ever come to pass that we built tall dangerous towers to store it.

 I salvaged and reused some old silo rods this past summer, it was smooth rod threaded on the ends which went through cast iron shoes that allowed the rods to lap and provided a bearing surface for the tightening nuts. The metal was quite malleable and fairly unique. Although we discovered it mostly buried and smushed up in the farm trash pile from about 30 years prior, much buried in the dirt and duff, it straightened well and took just a little heat to be able to unscrew the nuts, the corrosion was quite limited. It welded well, we straightened and reused it as tension rods in the barn roof. It wasn't dime store allthread at all, not sure where you would source it.

dgdrls


Folks at Canbar Canadian Barrel have been building wood stave
pipelines and tanks for many years.

I posted this some time back. 
Wood-Stave Pipeline in General Board



 

Lots to consider.

best
D

michiganmilkman

Ive done some checking and im going to go with non treated wood. All of the old literature I found and read said they used yellow and white pine. Hemlock. Redwood and cypress.  I will be hooping with silo rods. I understand the pro and cons of this type of storage. I have 2 bunker silos now and a old bagger that I fixed up.  I like working with wood and it seems like building a wood silo is a lost art. Just trying to keep a little of the past  alive.  Thanks for the repiles.  Ill look into a router table and just bevel some non treated tounge and groove. Thanks Rob

doc henderson

My great uncle used to have to paint the outside of the silo on the farm.  they rigged a pulley and his grandpa would hoist him up seated in a rig that looked like a swing set seat.  he told me every once in a while his grandpa would let him slip a bit just to get his attention.   :o  he was 6' 6" and 250# and not afraid of much, but after WWII he could not watch a movie with gunfire.
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

GeneWengert-WoodDoc

Redwood and cypress were preferred species.  However most of today's redwood and cypress is second growth and is not as good wrt decay resistance or strength.  Of course, the liquid cooperage industry uses white oak.
Gene - Author of articles in Sawmill & Woodlot and books: Drying Hardwood Lumber; VA Tech Solar Kiln; Sawing Edging & Trimming Hardwood Lumber. And more

D6c

Never seen wooden stave silos in my area.  For cattle feeding in this area, Harvestore Silos were pretty common, although not much in used anymore.

For that size silo I might look into finding a used Harvestore.   I know of 3 a mile from my place that my dad and uncle put up years ago for fat cattle feed lot. I think they are two 50' and one 60'.  They used one for shelled corn and two for silage.

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