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light chainsaw, Pro, farm or consumer?

Started by JimMartin9999, January 28, 2007, 12:17:20 PM

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old_hb

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The 336 is a fairly new addition to the Husky line and you`ve already gone through a bunch of them? What do you do with them? I would put them on a quality and performance basis far above that of the Echo. The Husky 45 and 50 were decent little saws but of a much older generation then the Echo cs346, it`s my experience however that if you dragged all three through the mud and then banged them around in the bed of a pickup for a hundred miles of dirt road, then examinined all three saws that you would be convinced that they are all from the same generation 15 or 20 years ago. Echo is not "wasting" any money on R&D when it comes to chainsaws. I think that the uninitiated chainsaw shopper should be made aware of this so that they will do a thorough comparison of the brands to ensure that they know what they are getting for their money.

Sorry, my mistake. I had two of the top handled Husky's which were 338's not 336's. They were hard to start, stalled all the time and were of little use to me. Got them cheap (one at Norther Tools and one at Alamia), sold them even cheaper. For small limbs I now use the Stihl 200T (very expensive) and the Echo 341 (very reasonable). No comparison... Stihl is better, but Echo (less than half the price)  is nice, starts easily cuts well. By "consumer" I mean the saws that you get at HD or Lowe's.


Bobvt

Spend a few more bucks and get a Husky 346xp.  Best saw I've ever owned.  Unbelievable how fast it cuts for a saw this size, although you do need to keep it sharp.  I have to force myself to walk back to the tractor to get the bigger Stihl, which is a good saw).   No problem dropping 20" to 24" hemlock.  (I think it is even safer, given the saws small size - I can run faster, jump higher and throw it further!!).

Bob

jokers

Quote from: Rick Alger on February 13, 2007, 08:38:30 AM
I think  the distinction between consumer, farmer and pro saws has as almost as much to do with warrantees  as it does  with saw quality. 
Can`t even begin to agree with you on that Rick. Take a look at various name brand saws and see how the warranties apply.

Rick Alger

Jokers,I could well be wrong on this one because I'm basing it on one experience. But anyway, here's where I'm coming from.

I've got half a dozen 60 - 70- cc "pro" saws, but this fall I took a small softwood job and decided  I'd get something smaller. I was looking at a 2159 Jonsered, but it was over $500. So I got a 2150 for $320 with a thirty day warrantee instead of the informal "for the season" warantee   that I usually got on the bigger saws.

I ran that little saw at least four hours a day   five days a week from October till now. The only thing beyond routine maintenance I had to do  was replace a recoil rope.

Now this logging season's almost over, and that little saw has done everything the 2159 would have done. No doubt the 2159 is the better saw, but better by $200?

I figure a good bit of that $200 is the warantee.

Now I know, or at least I think I know,  that loggers aren't supposed to get the ninety day farmer warantee or the one year consumer warantee, but I'm thinking the pricing structure makes it possible on the big saws for the right customer to get a long warantee  but it's not possible on the smaller saws that are mass marketed because of a tighter profit margin or whatever.

Anyway that's my uninformed two cents.

jokers

Hi Rick,

It appears that you have based your opinion on sound logic..........to an extent, and I`m sure the manufacturers do build in some prepaid warranty coverage on certain models based on the demographic of the expected users and mtbfs.

I think that the Jonsered 2150 and it`s sister, the Husky 350 are excellent lower dollar saws. Upon further use or examination you will find that the 2159 is built much better than the 2150 in that it has a vertically split magnesium crankcase that better supports the crank bearings, which are also of a higher quality than what the 2150 has based on my belief that the 2150 is the horizontally split/crank cap design, the 350 is. The 2159 also has greater displacement on the order of approximately 10cc which results in substantial more torque and horsepower so you are getting something substantially more for your initial investment even if quality and construction were equivalent.

rebocardo

To the original poster, this being the Internet and a picture being worth 1,000 words, I think this more clearly defines it.

My Poulan Wildthing 2375 I considered a consumer saw, even though it ran a 18" bar. It cost about $150



As set up

Bottom saw - Stihl MS-180c - 14" - cost $200 consumer

Middle saw - Stihl MS-250 - 18" - cost $300 I bought it as a backup saw, I am hoping it performs like a Farm saw. More then consumer (just on price), but, less then Pro, so I would call this a Farm saw. Just bought it last week and have not run it yet. But, I trusted my dealer to give me a

a) 18" "farm" saw as a
b) "light" backup where its main job was
c) chopping up tree tops for firewood trees .

He no longer sells Husky saws and I did not want to go to Lowes for a saw so I picked this. Even though I was sorely tempted to buy a Poulan 18" at northern toolhttps://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=position"> Note:Please read the Forestry Forum's postion on this company for $99 with a case.

Top saw Husky 365 - 28" - Pro saw cost about $580 as shown. From Bailey's "Homeowners like the robust power and rugged design while professionals enjoy the nimble power-band and lightweight design."

Obviously the 365 is the next best thing to sliced bread ... right after a Husky 372  :D

logger

Lets get back on track here people!  And jimmartian9999, I would get another husky 359, or stihl 260, or stihl 280.  Those are considered farm saws, light timber saws. :) 8)
220 Poulan            Future Saws         
Stihl MS280             Jonsered CS2171              
Stihl MS440 Magnum Husky 575XP  
Stihl MS460 Magnum   Dolmar PS-7900
Husky 385xp            Stihl MS361  Stihl MS441 Magnum
Stihl 066 Magnum       Stihl MS660 Magnum

jokers

I like the ms280, I had one for awhile as a demo and when I was through with it I sold it to a good friend who is very happy with it. The Husky 359 is also a very good "farm" saw that was formerly underappreciated or recognized but I`d say that table has turned. Both of these saws really benefit from opening the muffler and enriching the fuel to the engine.

I don`t think that the avergae casual user will ever fully appreciate the ms260 since it is not a torquey saw and it is quite expensive for it`s displacement.

JimMartin9999

Thanks for all the help.
There is so much information and  there are  so many recommendations it has become difficult for me to sift through it all.
I do understand that  to get maximum safety for my beginnner son  the saw should have all of the following  safety features:
anti-kick back chain, anti kickback bar, hand break, screen on muffler.
  I should probably buy one of the following:
   a Husky 340,350,359,246xp
Jonsered 2150
aPoulon 2375
a Poulon Wildthings
or a  Stihl 260 or 280. 
Anyone got anything against these?
Jokers mentioned a  brake flag,  what is that?
I  forgot to mention that my son is left handed.  Do lefties have to use right handed saws?  Are there any complications in choosing a saw?
Keep in mind that I will probably buy off the net, ebay, and an looking for the best saw for the money.
Jim

logger

Quote from: JimMartin9999 on February 20, 2007, 03:37:02 PM
Thanks for all the help.
There is so much information and  there are  so many recommendations it has become difficult for me to sift through it all.
I do understand that  to get maximum safety for my beginnner son  the saw should have all of the following  safety features:
anti-kick back chain, anti kickback bar, hand break, screen on muffler.
  I should probably buy one of the following:
   a Husky 340,350,359,246xp
Jonsered 2150
aPoulon 2375
a Poulon Wildthings
or a  Stihl 260 or 280. 
Anyone got anything against these?
Jokers mentioned a  brake flag,  what is that?
I  forgot to mention that my son is left handed.  Do lefties have to use right handed saws?  Are there any complications in choosing a saw?
Keep in mind that I will probably buy off the net, ebay, and an looking for the best saw for the money.

Did you mean 346xp?  Out of the bunch you have there, I would say your best bet would be husky 346xp, 359 or stihl 280.
220 Poulan            Future Saws         
Stihl MS280             Jonsered CS2171              
Stihl MS440 Magnum Husky 575XP  
Stihl MS460 Magnum   Dolmar PS-7900
Husky 385xp            Stihl MS361  Stihl MS441 Magnum
Stihl 066 Magnum       Stihl MS660 Magnum

SawTroll

Quote from: rebocardo on February 17, 2007, 07:01:47 PM
Well, using your clearer vison why not define it for us blind people? Why don't you answer it so I can pick your post apart about the classes he wanted better defined that noone answered, including you?

It is pretty hard to define -  some brand even contradict themselves on different markets. 
A typical exemple is the Husky 353, 359 and 365. They no doubt are pro saw quality, but they are not xps, and there you go - the discussion never ends.....
Information collector.

Jeff

This thread has been edited heavily from its original form do to inappropriate posting conduct for the Forestry Forum. We have tried to edit the thread back and maintain as much continuity as possible instead of loosing it completely in the "Woodshed" as it contains some good content. We apologize if you still find a reference or two within it that might not make complete sense.
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

jokers

Quote from: JimMartin9999 on February 20, 2007, 03:37:02 PM
Thanks for all the help.
There is so much information and  there are  so many recommendations it has become difficult for me to sift through it all.
I do understand that  to get maximum safety for my beginnner son  the saw should have all of the following  safety features:
anti-kick back chain, anti kickback bar, hand break, screen on muffler.
That is true, and don`t forget PPE and proper use instruction on both the saw and the PPE.
Quote from: JimMartin9999 on February 20, 2007, 03:37:02 PMI should probably buy one of the following:
   a Husky 340,350,359,246xp
Jonsered 2150
aPoulon 2375
a Poulon Wildthings
or a  Stihl 260 or 280. 
Anyone got anything against these?
If you are serious about getting your son interested in using a saw, don`t handicap him with any Poulan.
Quote from: JimMartin9999 on February 20, 2007, 03:37:02 PMJokers mentioned a  brake flag,  what is that?
That is the brake handle. Some cheap saws don`t even have a brake and many have a flag that is either attached to the saw only on one side or even worse, mounted on only one side and flimsy at that. I have even seen a few quality brands such as Solo and Shindaiwa that have single side mounting of the brake handle and a handle made of very soft plastic which deforms and yields under pressure. There are many reasons that Husky, Jonsered, Stihl, and Dolmar are the best brands IMO, this is only one of them. For the sake of illustration take any of the cheaper saws in a normal two handed grip an actuate the brake with the back of your left hand as if it were a kickback, are you instilled with confidence that the brake will work? This is one primary reason that I bought my son an MS180.
Quote from: JimMartin9999 on February 20, 2007, 03:37:02 PMI  forgot to mention that my son is left handed.  Do lefties have to use right handed saws?  Are there any complications in choosing a saw?
Lefties use right handed saws. I know of no modern bar left saws.
Quote from: JimMartin9999 on February 20, 2007, 03:37:02 PMKeep in mind that I will probably buy off the net, ebay, and an looking for the best saw for the money.
You just ruled out an "honest to God" new Stihl.

Frankly if I was in your shoes, especially since it appears that you aren`t all that familiar with the saws yourself, I would start searching for a good local dealer who sells any of the four brands that I listed as the best IMO brands. That would be Husky, Jonsered, Stihl, and Dolmar. The margin on the saws that I feel you should be considering isn`t that high, in other words you aren`t going to save that much by buying off the net so you should consider the extra small amount that you will spend as an investment in safe handling and basic maintenance knowledge that the dealer should impart to you. It will also establish a relationship with a person who can help you should you ever need help, especially if you tell the dealer that you were considering buying off the net but decided instead to patronize a "real" dealer for his knowledge and experience.

Here is the short list of saws that I would consider. Stihl MS180 and MS250, forget any of the gimmicks like Quick Stop. Husky 340/345/350 or if there is more money in the budget for a long term investment, get a 353. Forget the 346xp, it wasn`t meant for operators with your needs and skill level. The Jonsered models would be the cs-2141, 2145, 2150, and 2152 which is comparable to the Husky 353. I like the feel of the Huskies better and the angled handlebar is ergonomically superior to that of the straight bar on the Jonsereds. The Dolmars that I would consider would be the ps-401, 460, 510, and 5100s.

I don`t believe that some of the other saws that you mentioned should be on your list and I`ll tell you why. The Stihl 260 has too narrow a powerband for a beginner and it is too costly. The ms280 has alot more power, ie; potential reactive force and costs alot more than typical "consumer" saws which appears to be a concern for you.

The Husky 346xp for the same reasons as the ms260 and the 359 for the same reasons as the ms280, likewise the Jonsered 2159, 2156, or the Husky 357.

I consider the Dolmar 5100s to even be marginal for your needs because of the price and power but it could be an outstanding lifetime firewood saw so I left it on the list.

Varmintmist

I have 2 saws also, one a 359 and guess what? A walking around/limbing/wife saw, a husky 136 with a 16 in bar and a anti kick chain.

Dont be afraid of the smaller non pro one, for the serious cutting you are going to use the bigger saw, the little one MAY get used all day, most likely not.  When the wife is working with me, I will drop and she dives in and limbs while I transform the trunk into firewood. The 136 class will do a awful lot for the size and price.

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