Here's pics (Maybe)

biziedizie · March 19, 2003, 07:45:53 PM

Hey Dave it's looking good! So what colour are you going to paint it when your done? That big a** I beam that's sitting by the mill was that your first choice to build the tongue out of! :D :D

Steve

Jeff · March 19, 2003, 07:51:13 PM

Don't ask Dave what color it will be, ask me. You see we make em whatever color we think they should be to go with the forum decor. Ask Whitepe and Deadheader. They ended up with the hot pink and neon green models.

biziedizie · March 19, 2003, 08:34:01 PM

Oh yeah I forgot that your the man with the powers that control things around here! So do ya think you could take the pics and make Dave's mill a pretty pink with a few polk-a-dots on it, I think Dave might like that!

Steve

Mark M · March 19, 2003, 09:17:44 PM

Hey Dave

Those welds look pretty good to me. I can weld strong and if I use 6013 rod I can even weld pretty. Would like to try a wire feed welder one of these days. We have a bunch at work, guess I'll have to go out and get a quick lesson.

Mark

Fla._Deadheader · March 20, 2003, 03:49:12 AM

Mark, Don'T weld with a wire welder, it'll spoil ya!! ::)You'll never want to lift a stinger again. ;)

Dave_Fullmer · March 20, 2003, 03:54:05 AM

Steve,

That big I beam is 4' long. I had 16' left over from my barn addition and cut it in 4 pieces to have something solid to lay out the mill on. When I first hauled the steel to the guys shop they thought I planned to use it on the mill and started to wonder how many axles I was going to put on it. Those 4 pieces sure made it easier to weld.

Mark,

That is wire feed. When Murray closed last year, us guys in maintenance were given quite a few of the tools that they didn't want to truck to China. They guys have 240 3PH and they have 3 of those welders. I can do a fine job with the wire feed, but can't stick weld worth a darn.

Wendel is one heck of a welder. I haven't ever seen a bad weld of his. He is a certified gas pipe welder. The other two guys are good with electrical, general maintenance, and construction. I have a strong background in automation equipment. I should buy into their business and then we should go for local plant PLC projects. But what the heck, I'm 65 and I've been having a nice vacation for the last year. I've been telling people that this last summer was the first summer I've had off since 7th grade.

Steve, none of those sisy color schemes for my LOG BOSS.. I have been thinking gray deck, Ford blue on the carraige, and white blade guards. My first choice was Allis Chalmers Persian Orange #!, but I thought that would be too much conflict with WM and you guys wouldn't let me live that down. Besides Persian Orange #1 is reserved for Allis tractors older than 1960.

Gotta get to school. I'm still trying to figure out what I want to do when I grow up.

Dave

D._Frederick · March 20, 2003, 04:13:08 PM

Dave,
Sorry about my mistake, I still believe that a picture is worth a thousand words! I bought no. 0008 carriage from linn lumber and built the track from there plans. I wish I had designed the track myself, I would have added rollers under the track to prevent the carriage from tipping forward. With a 150lb motor and mudd saw in front of blade, the center of gravity is too far forward.

D._Frederick · March 20, 2003, 04:51:18 PM

Dave,
I went through the postings to see how I screwed-up and looking at your pictures again on reply no. 6 , the one with the wheel on top, I notice that you have installed the horizontal tube across the back of the carriage. Check this distance out from the top of the log rests to the bottom side of this tube, It determines how big of a log you can saw. On my mill, I could saw about a 3 inch larger log, if this tube was higher. It has caused me a lot of sawing with the chain saw on swell butted logs.
Nice pictures and nice job, looks like factory work.

Dave_Fullmer · March 20, 2003, 06:47:01 PM

D.,

No problem, I was just razzing you.

You make an interesting point about the back cross bar. When I drew up the plans, I made mine wider and higher than Linn's. I believe I remember that theirs was only 36 or 39" on the posts and about the same wide. I expanded that to about 48 by 48. Acutally the rear posts are only 47" with that bar done 3" Being a 2" piece that gives me clearance of 42" to the bottom of the frame. Add abut 1 1/2" for half the wheel but take away the 6" bolster gives me about 37 1/2". I just might have a problem that I didn't realize on those big red oak trees I looked at Sat.

DanG, now I wish you hadn't said anything and I could have blissfully gone on thinking every thing was fine. Now I'll have to think about a solution.

Course I could just weld a bar right on top of the posts and saw off the existing one with the portaband. That might just be a good idea. On the other hand, I'm not sure I really want to saw 38" oak logs. The cant is going to be one h*** of a job turning.

The information I got from Linn was model numbers. a 160 being a 16" wheel, a 190 being a 19" wheel, and a 210 being a 21" wheel. What size is the 0008 that you refer to? I bought 19" wheels, 48" lift screws and the hyd tensioner from them.

I don't quite picture what you are referring to as rollers under the track? Have you had problems with the mill tipping forward?

Thanks for the comments. I'll be sure to pass them to the guys in the shop. I emailed Wendel with the URL so he could see his picture on the web. He didn't quite understand my instructions how to get to the forum.

Dave

D._Frederick · March 21, 2003, 10:57:36 AM

Dave,
My carriage is a 190 and has 19inch band wheels, the throat opening is 23 inches and the maximum log size is 28 inches. I have track to cut 27 feet. The 0008 is the serial number of the carriage. I had priced it out and had plans on paper to build a new carriage with 24inch wheels, but my health took a turn for the worst so now just a dream. The 19inch wheels limit a person to use only the flex back blades, and even these will only give about 15hrs of run time. The hard back blades allow a faster feed rate and they don't deviate from the cut-line.
With the center of gravity toward the front on my mill, I was afraid that if I hit the stops on the end of the track that the carriage would tip farward. I am using 6inch channel to re-inforce the track, I used a piece of bar stock that has the end bent to match the angle of the channel flange on the inside. This is bolted to the back of the carriage by the carriage wheels, it has just enough clearance that it does not rub the channel flange as the carriage moves on the track. It will prevent the back of the carriage from lifting if I hit the track stops too hard.

Dave_Fullmer · March 21, 2003, 06:58:51 PM

D.,
So Gary's 190 has only throat hieght of 23"? You know, until you pointed this potential out I hadn't even thought about the throat hieght or "Shut hieght" as they call it in punch press language. Shame on me :-[ :-[.

We just got the carriage set on the deck yesterday and today, I did some measuring. I can see how you can't even use the whole length of the up/down screw because of the limit in how much it slide can travel. I'm in the process right now of seeing what we can do to increase that travel. Even with the extra length I put on my posts, I can only travel about 29 inches. I'm looking at maybe maiking the posts a little longer. It doesn't look like it would be too much trouble to get as much as 36" throat height

Already, with the height of the deck, using the hand crank at the top is out of the question. This only reinforces my thoughts about putting a power raise/lower system on it.

I also measured the clearance on the back bar and found I had 37 1/2". I am thinking about putting the bar on top of the posts and maybe using a gusset on the corners.

Darn, too bad that I wasn't a better engineer. I sure thank you for your input. I probably wouldn't have even noticed until after we had painted it. Then I would have felt I had to live with it.

Dave_Fullmer · March 21, 2003, 07:04:41 PM

D.

Forgot to ask you something else I was wondering about.

You say your saw is serial # 0008. I'm curious about how long you have owned it. I never even thought to ask Gary how many saws he has out there. Does your 0008 indicate he hasn't built that many saws?

BTW, I have found Gary to be very helpful whenever I have had questions about my modifications. I guess I just haven't thought of the right questions to ask him.

Dave

D._Frederick · March 22, 2003, 11:37:45 AM

Dave,
It will be two yours since the last time I was at Gary's shop, said that he had over 300 of the 190's out. If I remember correctly, it was 1989 when I ordered the carriage. I guess that I was unclear about throat dimensions. From guide to guide the opening is 23inches, From the log rest to the blade it is 25 inches. The throat height is about 10 inches (from blade to bottom of saw frame).
I set up my mill to be all electric, I am using a 1/3 hp gear motor to turn the up-down screw, it gives me 8 inches of travel per minute. I wish it was a little faster, but with no speed control, it allows me to index it without too much trouble, I left the crank on for fine adjustment. The gear motor is the axial type and can be turned. I have a 1/4 hp 90rpm perament magnet dc motor with SCR control for carriage feed. The way my mill is set-up, it handles up to 24 inch diameter logs with no problem, above that not so easy. To go bigger, you should have more guide to guide opening and more height from log rest to blade. If you have not bought guides, I would go with the Suffic (sp) guides that have a flat blade under the roller, Cooks Saw also sells this type guide. It prevents the blade from twisting and reduces the wavy cut.
Good luck on your building.

Dave_Fullmer · April 06, 2003, 03:46:29 PM

Thanks D.

I take it that if your mill is totally electric that the 90 rpm motor is a 90 VDC? Your idea of leaving the handle on the up/down screw sounds good to me. I definitely will have to use a motor on the up/down because my height from the ground is getting up so high that the crank is in an awkward position. I have about 31 inches of travel for the blade height.

Been gone for 2 weeks putting windows and doors in an old cabin at a Bible camp in East TN so I haven't been able to do anything on the mill except use the CAD system on the laptop to check out things. Tomorrow I'll check out what Wendel has done on it these two weeks.

Dave.

D._Frederick · April 07, 2003, 05:00:54 PM

Dave,
Glad that you got your re-build project on the cabin done, how was the weather? All it has done here is rain, we had measurable rain every day in March. It broke a record.
On the up/down drive on my mill, I am using a 1/3 hp 120v-ac gearmotor that is a Dayton brand. I use a on/off/on toggle switch to control the motor. I went with the ac motor because the dc system was about $200 more. I have the drive set-up with a Vee belt that gives me a speed of 8 inches/minute. If I went any faster, I don't think that it would be controllable with a toggle switch. If you plan on sawing to make money, waiting 3 minutes to raise the saw head is too long.

Dave_Fullmer · April 08, 2003, 01:15:12 PM

D.
The weather was beautiful most of the time. It was 60 to 78 degrees until Sun the 31st. Then we got 6 inches of snow in the morning. It melted off in the afternoon and was misty and wet on Monday. The rest of the week it was nice again.

My wife and I took out 6 old wood panels and reframed the holes to accept new windows. We also resided the siding with "new" rough sawed vertical board and batten strips. We also install 2 new door. I took pics of the project but probably shouldn't post them here unless being sawmill rough lumber is a good enough excuse.

We had a good time. They fed us TOO WELL. We put my tools in my pickup and hauled it over there behind my motor home.

It was good to be back home though.