Cutting Question

[FarmingSawyer]

Just a question....just wondering....

I've seen a lot of pictures of cants cut up with the boards left in place after each cut..... Is this so you can just remove the whole cant worth of boards at the end with a machine? Seems like there would be a lot of wasted time lifting the head higher and higher each time, and lowering it back to the next cut....must be an automated thing, because I couldn't imagine doing it with a manual mill.....

And doesn't all that extra weight on the blade from the top cause issues sooner or later? 

Even working the mill by myself I always remove the top board and either stack it immediately if it is valuable wood, or set it aside till I'm done working the log and then move the boards several at a time to the piles.....

[YoungStump]

There are different reasons why some people prefer to do this, but the main reason I do it is when I intend to saw boards all the way down to the bed I like to leave some boards on top as the weight helps keep it from bowing up resulting in thick n thin lumber.

[POSTON WIDEHEAD]

the main reason I do it is when I intend to saw boards all the way down to the bed I like to leave some boards on top as the weight helps keep it from bowing up resulting in thick n thin lumber.

This is good Young Stump and I do the same thing.
I saw the whole cant from top to bottom....then take the clamp and move the stack back to the loader side and pick up the stack with the forks and head for the  customer's trailer.
I can get some lumber sawn like that.


 

And to answer your question FarmimgSawyer, there is no extra weight on the blade to do any harm.
I have stopped the blade in the middle of a cut with 9 or 10 boards on top just to answer the phone. No problems.

[red oaks lumber]

the fastest way is remove each board,if your worried about stress the best habit to get in is always flip your cant after 2 cuts,sometimes every cut to keep sawing the stress out.
if your not worried about time or money,cut the whole cant and remove after its cut.

[Dave Shepard]

I like to take as many boards off of a face as I can in one operation, then tail the lumber, and then flip the cant. With computer setworks and quick electric feedworks, it doesn't take too long. I usually don't saw down to the bed all at once because of stress. In white pine, I can take quite a few passes, but in something like tulip, I never take more than two boards, and sometimes only one in long logs. I don't think there is any additional stress on the band, as the wood just ahead of the band keeps the kerf open. Maybe as the last 1/16" is cut, there is a little more, but then you are out of the cut.

[bandmiller2]

I will usally cut three or four boards then unload for a couple of reasons. Sometimes there are hidden faults in a cant and if you keep cutting you won't see them. There have been times I have seen blue stain in oak I never would have seen if I fully cut the cant and would have run right into tramp metal. I have power lift on my sawhead  and its no sweat to go up and over. Frank C.

[Dave Shepard]

When I used to saw on an LT40 manual, I would return under the boards. :D Just make sure you stop the band. ;)

[Magicman]

Some species and some logs will allow you to saw through.  And then there are those species and those logs that will teach you a lesson.  Normally, I can saw half way to the pith, flip, and then saw through, but even that is no guarantee.  Yes, I have sawn many cants that had to be flipped after each board.  Each log is an individual unto itself determined by the species as well as the growing conditions.  Fast growing "plantation SYP" is bad, as well as trees that were crowded on one side or grew at the edge of an opening, or on a hillside.

[creekrunner]

ahhhh...good info to know for young grasshopper...

[mesquite buckeye]

I had never really thought about cutting several boards at a time until I saw guys doing it here. With the computer setworks it is easy. Only delay is extra up and down time. I find it is helpful to cut several at a time when I work alone to save steps. ;D

If I have a helper standing around, we take them one at a time.

[petefrom bearswamp]

if i am alone and sawing high value stuff, maple cherry etc i remove every board to check for grade.
if sawin white pine or hemlock thru and thru i often saw all the way without removing boards until I amm done with the cant.

[Larry]

Sawing hardwood grade, the board price is based on clear area.  If your not pulling the boards one at a time good chance your loosing dollars.

If you see a sawyer sawing straight through on a hardwood custom job his priority is not the customer.  Grade or not the best lumber is the jacket boards and a lot of time the cob is only fit for blocking.

Softwood is a different story.  Once I get to a cant I'll saw straight down to near the pith than rotate 180.  Of course if the cant is moving than more turning may be required.

[Magicman]

Many sawing patterns are determined on the lumber's use.  I was sawing White Oak bridge decking this morning.  There was no stress and I sawed through.  The great majority of my lumber will be for general use. (farm lumber)

[FarmingSawyer]

This is all great stuff...... I was just thinking about the chance of doing a bit of through sawing this morning when I began hitting nails.... you can read about that in another post.... I like the idea, and I'd never thought about the extra weight helping hold things in place.... Having worked with a circular tie mill for so long, the boards have to come off.... the only time we stacked back on is if we were doing a run of 2x in a hurry.  I do remember a 16ft Doug Fir 2x12 flying off the cant with a deafening crack as the set works passed the final 2 inches by the saw..... I was between the edging pile, the rollers and the 451 & it's fuel tank, 3ft in the air.... I ducked onto the walkway as it shot over my head and hit the crane 15ft away......The sawyer saw it was finally time to roll the cant....

[GAB]

When sawing 1" x 2" battens I leave the cant boards on the mill and when the cant is sawed I then rotate the entire pile 1/4 turn and saw the other direction.  Same for 2 by's.  This save removal and restacking time.
It all depends on what you are doing, what species of wood you are sawing, customer desires, and numerous other factors.
Gerald

[backwoods sawyer]

Today while milling a large redwood tree and a couple of fair sized fir trees all 2x8-6 and stickers I got to timing how long it takes to raise up and drop down while in pattern mode, raising and lowering the full 12" of throat hight was taking 4 sec each way. Total time to raise and lower thru each of the seven cuts was just over 60 sec, that would equal three turns and no raise time :-\
While edging I was milling stickers until I found the 8" in the midle of the flitches. By leaving the stickers in place and unloading once per side per batch of flitches we were able to produce enough to fill two heavy duty trailers.
I went to the next size larger pully on the up down moter to make it more efficiant ;)

This last week I got a call from an old family friend, he was frusterated with these three guys he had cutting corn for his cows. Had taken them 4 hours to cut and load a trailer full using a weed-eater with a blade. They would cut 3-4 stalks walk to the trailer. He talked me into hauling a few loads with two of then to show them how we had always done it. It took six loads to get them to understand and put into practice gathering up 3-4 dozen stalks, scoop and toss, working a three row pattern so the saw could be in the stalks more ;) we were cutting and loading in just under an hour.

When running any type of production everything you do needs to be efficiant. When off loading Little Jo starts the boards off the mill and I load the trailer. This allows us to not move our feet and it is two board after the other as a double stack is unloaded.   

Cutting multiples from logs that allow it is very efficiant.