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660 chainsaw 91cc

Started by cliffreaves, May 10, 2016, 10:21:53 PM

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cliffreaves

I've been looking for a great deal on either a ms660 or an 395xp for a while now.  Suddenly on Amazon I noticed 660's 91cc being sold new on the cheap.  They do not have the stihl logo but otherwise it looks just like one.  Anyone know if this is legit or if it's a Chinese knock off?  I thought maybe with the 661's coming out, they're possibly getting rid of overstock?  Thoughts???

ZeroJunk

You can bet they are Chinese knockoffs.

sandsawmill14

our local dealer still has them in stock 1050.00 bucks out the door :-\ thats very little cheaper than the 661 ??? ::)
hudson 228, lucky knuckleboom,stihl 038 064 441 magnum

cliffreaves

You're probably right.  Just wishful thinking on my part.  One seller has them at $880 & the other is at $503. 

weimedog

If you don't see a "Stihl" on the cover or pull start and/or the seller doesn't brag about it being a real Stihl... it probably isn't :)
Husqvarna 365sp/372xpw Blend, Jonsered 2171 51.4mm XPW build,562xp HTSS, 560 HTSS, 272XP, 61/272XP, 555, 257, 242, 238, Homelite S-XL 925, XP-1020A, Super XL (Dad's saw); Jonsered 2094, Three 920's, CS-2172, Solo 603; 3 Huztl MS660's (2 54mm and 1 56mm)

Gearbox

If you are looking at a 660 the logging co has one sitting that no one wants to run . Too heavy for the power and they just don't need that much power for hand falling behind the 1270 .
A bunch of chainsaws a BT6870 processer , TC 5 International track skidder and not near enough time

cliffreaves

I'm wanting to mill with one, but I'm having a hard time convincing myself (OK, my wife) that I need to drop over a grand on a chainsaw.  If it were entirely up to me I'd buy a brand new 3120 or an 880 and go balls to the walls! 😀

weimedog

If you want to build one of those aftermarket "knock off" saws....below is a little clue to how they perform. ;)

I built one from aftermarket parts...have run it from time to time for the last year...actually ran it last weekend. One of those saws that surprises you every time. Here is a video of one cutting, a smaller ash but you will probably get the idea.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5SWY8RuLLAA

And same saw here with a 24in bar&chain mixed in with some big old Jonsereds:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mgcZMMznuhs
Husqvarna 365sp/372xpw Blend, Jonsered 2171 51.4mm XPW build,562xp HTSS, 560 HTSS, 272XP, 61/272XP, 555, 257, 242, 238, Homelite S-XL 925, XP-1020A, Super XL (Dad's saw); Jonsered 2094, Three 920's, CS-2172, Solo 603; 3 Huztl MS660's (2 54mm and 1 56mm)

cliffreaves

Those videos were super helpful!  Thank you!  I don't think I'd get the same result building one myself, because i have no idea what I'm doing😂.  However I have a little more confidence buying one now and potentially replacing with after market parts as needed👍

weimedog

Quote from: cliffreaves on May 18, 2016, 10:01:44 AM
Those videos were super helpful!  Thank you!  I don't think I'd get the same result building one myself, because i have no idea what I'm doing😂.  However I have a little more confidence buying one now and potentially replacing with after market parts as needed👍

I did a build series on them. Couple of things up front. First. Entire chain adjustment assembly is junk. Replace with OEM and don't even waste time giving the typical AM stuff a chance. It will annoy you. Also pull the "pull start" off and put a little oil right where the screw & what looks like washers hold the assembly in. Another thing to do immediately. I set the ones I build up at 2800 idle and 12500 no load RPM's and that's a great place to break them in. After a plug check or three and after a few tanks I set the hi at 12800-13000 as they seem to like that. Milling?? I would leave it at 12500. AND I run 32:1 Husqvarna brand synthetic. No problems yet. Oh yea...the caps. Ditch the oil and fuel caps for OEM as well.

I had one where is was tough to get it to idle..I had all kind of complex theories but it simply was a bad carburetor. Replaced that with an OEM Walbro) and never had another issue. Having said that, the AM carbs usually work fine. But I've had two so far that weren't just right and swapped them out for Walbro's

I guess the other reason I prefer to build them is to clean up the transfer and intake ports. They run well stock, but sometimes the ports aren't symmetric and there is a sharp ridge right at the cylinder wall....none have failed but I like to clean that stuff up. All mine are cleaned up that way....and you might be able to tell...they all run well. :)
Husqvarna 365sp/372xpw Blend, Jonsered 2171 51.4mm XPW build,562xp HTSS, 560 HTSS, 272XP, 61/272XP, 555, 257, 242, 238, Homelite S-XL 925, XP-1020A, Super XL (Dad's saw); Jonsered 2094, Three 920's, CS-2172, Solo 603; 3 Huztl MS660's (2 54mm and 1 56mm)

cliffreaves

Yeah, I'm impressed by how well they run.  Once again, your advice is priceless to this novice and I'm sure to many others.  You ever consider building one up and selling it?

motohed

I would watch ebay and find a blown up one cheap , I have seen a few with no time on them go cheap . You can put an after market big bore kit on them ,and make sure there are no air leaks , and have a great saw . You can find the ocasional 880 too .

weimedog

Quote from: cliffreaves on May 18, 2016, 07:35:14 PM
Yeah, I'm impressed by how well they run.  Once again, your advice is priceless to this novice and I'm sure to many others.  You ever consider building one up and selling it?

Not really in that business. :(
Husqvarna 365sp/372xpw Blend, Jonsered 2171 51.4mm XPW build,562xp HTSS, 560 HTSS, 272XP, 61/272XP, 555, 257, 242, 238, Homelite S-XL 925, XP-1020A, Super XL (Dad's saw); Jonsered 2094, Three 920's, CS-2172, Solo 603; 3 Huztl MS660's (2 54mm and 1 56mm)

cliffreaves

I'll keep my eyes open for eBay deals.  It's hard to know whether or not you're buying a money pit on there though.  I'm a wood worker/furniture builder, I want to saw my own slabs for tables and such.  I worked for a small tree service throughout college, but I've never worked on a saw other than just routine maintenance.  So buying a project sounds a bit scary to me.  I've seen new "660's" for $400 including shipping, but they are most surely all aftermarket.  49er pointed me towards aboristsite, it seems a lot more trustworthy there.  I just have to wait for a great deal.  👀👀👀 Thanks again guys

weimedog

You can start with an AM saw just have to fix the known issues PDQ. I guess that's an approach. But why the AM saws? Price? Why not a clean used saw? I know what I had to do on the AM parts so it does make me nervous to just buy a pre built AM saw not knowing if those small but possibly significant issues were dealt with. Me personally would take a pre assembled AM saw and just pull the top end to check and replace the parts I know will be an issue, fuel & oil caps, chain adjust, pull start etc. I can tweak the pull start and cylinder myself. Not really hard. But many are nervous to do those things.

Problem with online situations is if a guy was local I could do that and it would be worth it in SOME cases depending on the application and person. But to ship a saw and then to tweak it from folks I really don't know....cost wise you might as well buy a new or at least supported used saw from a local dealer. So I as a hobbyist and not a dealer; simply don't engage with that type of work because its really not good for either party.
Husqvarna 365sp/372xpw Blend, Jonsered 2171 51.4mm XPW build,562xp HTSS, 560 HTSS, 272XP, 61/272XP, 555, 257, 242, 238, Homelite S-XL 925, XP-1020A, Super XL (Dad's saw); Jonsered 2094, Three 920's, CS-2172, Solo 603; 3 Huztl MS660's (2 54mm and 1 56mm)

cliffreaves

Yeah, I wouldn't want to be in that business either.  Some people would buy a used chainsaw and expect lifetime customer service or something crazy like that.  I've worked in customer service now for many years and don't wish that on anyone.  I would gladly buy a used saw from someone that I believe knows saws, such as you guys on this forum.  If y'all said it was a good working saw, knowing what I need it for, that'd be enough for me.  I'd handle anything that breaks after I start using it.  My neighbor knows how to fix them, I'd bribe him with a few beers and get him to teach me 😂

ohiowoodchuck

Ive went down the ebay road three times now. Just go buy a new one because after they lie to you about what it needs, you could of bought a new one for a hundred more.
Education is the best defense against the media.

cliffreaves

Well guys, I got a 395xp from eBay (feel free to laugh woodchuck) 🙈 for $510.  This was the description: Saw is used it has scrapes  scratches dents dings air filter cover has cracks in it kill switch doesn't work all the time saw does run well new top end it has 58mm big bore kit in it  24 Husqvarna bar.
I hope I made a good decision.

motohed

I passed on that one , I thought it needed to much . The good tell , is if they look like they have been cared for , most guys replace broken plastic when it's damaged . I would make sure the chain brake works and get some plastic pieces replaced , the other thing is adjust the carb for your area before you start using it and replace the fuel filter before that . Make sure the muffler and carb screws are tight , as well as other hardware . You may also need to replace the mount as it looked like they were out of wack . JMHO

cliffreaves

Yeah, I was a little concerned when it stopped in the $500's and all the other 395's & 660's went in the $650 range.  Hopefully it doesn't need anything major done.  I'm also hoping he knew what he was doing when he put on the big bore kit.

cliffreaves

I told the seller that I would be my lling with it and asked if he recommend having any work done to it first.  This was response:  Yea you have to run fully sinthetic oil In that at 100-1 and I recomend use Husqvarna oil or ams oil.
1. Any thoughts on his advice?
2. I was fishing for him to warn me about any problems that he has run into with this saw.  I take a little comfort in the fact that just recommend which oil to use...

weimedog

Quote from: cliffreaves on May 22, 2016, 10:31:08 AM
I told the seller that I would be my lling with it and asked if he recommend having any work done to it first.  This was response:  Yea you have to run fully sinthetic oil In that at 100-1 and I recomend use Husqvarna oil or ams oil.
1. Any thoughts on his advice?
2. I was fishing for him to warn me about any problems that he has run into with this saw.  I take a little comfort in the fact that just recommend which oil to use...

100:1 ? Milling? He must be in the business of selling top ends.
Husqvarna 365sp/372xpw Blend, Jonsered 2171 51.4mm XPW build,562xp HTSS, 560 HTSS, 272XP, 61/272XP, 555, 257, 242, 238, Homelite S-XL 925, XP-1020A, Super XL (Dad's saw); Jonsered 2094, Three 920's, CS-2172, Solo 603; 3 Huztl MS660's (2 54mm and 1 56mm)

cliffreaves

I was planning on trying canola oil, lol.

farmguy

The wife has usually got some baby oil or hand cream could mix that 50:1 and try that. I wont buy a used saw unless the guy is willing to remove the muffler so I can see in the cylinder. Or if its really cheap. If you do need a top watch out some of the aftermarket is junk do your research

weimedog

Very true what he said..
Husqvarna 365sp/372xpw Blend, Jonsered 2171 51.4mm XPW build,562xp HTSS, 560 HTSS, 272XP, 61/272XP, 555, 257, 242, 238, Homelite S-XL 925, XP-1020A, Super XL (Dad's saw); Jonsered 2094, Three 920's, CS-2172, Solo 603; 3 Huztl MS660's (2 54mm and 1 56mm)

reride82

cliffreaves,

I bid that up to the $500 mark, that was as far as I wanted to gamble on his description of the saw. Plus, I don't trust others mechanical work, especially on big bore kits. For that price, you can do some rebuilding if she blows  :D I'd run a synthetic 40:1 while milling with that saw. Fouled spark plugs are cheaper than top ends and down time. Good luck with the saw, let us know how it runs!

Levi
'Do it once, do it right'

'First we shape our buildings, then our buildings shape us'
Living life on the Continental Divide in Montana

cliffreaves

I can't say I completely understand the concept of gas to oil ratio, but it seems like 100:1 would more likely blow the engine.  40:1 sounds much safer to me.  I don't know why he would tell me 100:1.

reride82

Some synthetics claim that they can run at 100:1 and maintain lubrication, but I've always leaned on the side of safety and run synthetic as the same blend as conventional. Oil is cheap compared to repairs in the long run in my opinion.

Levi
'Do it once, do it right'

'First we shape our buildings, then our buildings shape us'
Living life on the Continental Divide in Montana

cliffreaves

Alright guys, I got the saw in today and the first thing I did was remove the muffler and check the piston.  I was amazed at how clean it was, no scoring at all looked brand new.  I bought a replacement air filter cover that came in at the same time as the saw and I fit perfectly.  I contacted the seller and told him thank you and that everything looked great.  He said the top end only has 1 hour of use on it, so pretty much a new saw.  I'll get a chance to actually fire it up in a couple days.  should I treat it like a new saw?

farmguy

Yep that top end still needs to be broke in.

cliffreaves

I'm running the echo synthetic blend with 92 unleaded ethanol free fuel.  I took down a 30" walnut, limbed and bucked it today.  The only problem I had saw wise was the chain and bar kept getting really hot.  I was running a 24" bar with the oiler turned all the way up.  The chain is sharp and making good size chips.  There was definitely enough oil coming off the end of the bar.  Any thoughts on what I'm doing wrong?  The bar and chain were only smoking in stuff that was about 15" or more.  The saw is a beast!

farmguy

What kind of bar oil are you using. I would use a heavy grade chain oil in hardwood. Check your nose sprocket make sure it turns easy. Also make sure you bar is not full of chipps that will soak up the oil and keep it from flowing to the bottom. Check that you chain is not to tight in the bar grove it could be the wrong gage of chain or a pinched bar.

farmguy

If you are seeing smoke it could be a clutch problem too

motohed

I would make sure ,you don't have the chain to tight . You should be able to pull it around the bar easily .

cliffreaves

Alright, finally got the chance the run the 395 again between storms.  I checked and deburred the bar, sharpened the chain and, cleaned everything really well. I didn't see a bit of smoke while running it this time.  I must've just had the chain too tight.  The burs on the bar didn't seem bad at all but that could've contributed.  Either way, it's fixed for now.  Thanks again for the help!

weimedog

One of the guys who frequents my YouTube channel posted this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mHCtpxt0DjE
Husqvarna 365sp/372xpw Blend, Jonsered 2171 51.4mm XPW build,562xp HTSS, 560 HTSS, 272XP, 61/272XP, 555, 257, 242, 238, Homelite S-XL 925, XP-1020A, Super XL (Dad's saw); Jonsered 2094, Three 920's, CS-2172, Solo 603; 3 Huztl MS660's (2 54mm and 1 56mm)

cliffreaves

What's your channel weimedog?

weimedog

Husqvarna 365sp/372xpw Blend, Jonsered 2171 51.4mm XPW build,562xp HTSS, 560 HTSS, 272XP, 61/272XP, 555, 257, 242, 238, Homelite S-XL 925, XP-1020A, Super XL (Dad's saw); Jonsered 2094, Three 920's, CS-2172, Solo 603; 3 Huztl MS660's (2 54mm and 1 56mm)

cliffreaves

Thank you sir, you have one more subscriber. 👍

weimedog

Quote from: cliffreaves on June 06, 2016, 09:47:53 PM
Thank you sir, you have one more subscriber. 👍

Thank you..:) Hope you enjoy the show(s)
Husqvarna 365sp/372xpw Blend, Jonsered 2171 51.4mm XPW build,562xp HTSS, 560 HTSS, 272XP, 61/272XP, 555, 257, 242, 238, Homelite S-XL 925, XP-1020A, Super XL (Dad's saw); Jonsered 2094, Three 920's, CS-2172, Solo 603; 3 Huztl MS660's (2 54mm and 1 56mm)

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