log lenghts cut before milling

[Lumbergent]

Thanks CW
I read your message after replying to the previous.
What I think I,ll do is cut 21' logs for 20' beams and then vary to 17' for 16' pieces. My needs for 8', 10' and 12' can come out of the 21'lenghts. This way I could be pretty well covered when it's time to mill.
I do not have a front end loader on my tractor. so feeding to the sawmill will be difficult. Have you had any experience with a client winching the logs to your forks? Here's a sketch of what I meen.

 

[Lumbergent]

Sorry for the crappy Sketch!

[Lumbergent]

TA
I agree with you. As log as the deer and Turkeys are happy I'm happy. But my girlfriend of 4 years loves to walk the woods. You know, yoga, meditation etc... My grandkids play there as well. So you might think of the wooded lot as a kind of park as well. Immediate esthetics after lumbering seems to be my imposed ''Modus Operandi''.

[Ljohnsaw]

You probably won't need to go to all that trouble.  IF you are on fairly level ground or sloping slightly toward the mill, just by the biggest Logrite cant hook and roll them.  If needed, get two so your help can help!  Its amazing what you can roll with one of those.

If you insist on using your winch, it would be much better to roll the logs to the mill.  To do that, you pass the winch cable OVER the log and come back under it to an anchor point (either your mill or your tractor.  That way, as you winch in, the cable will automatically roll the log.  Dragging them would lead to getting all sorts of dirt and rocks well embedded in the bark.

In any event, you should have a couple of long skinny logs set up perpendicular to the mill (all the way to the loading arms) that the logs are stacked upon.  Then, they will act as way to keep the logs clean and help them roll a lot easier (branch nubs will be less likely to hold you up).  It will also allow you to get the cable under them if you choose that route.  Search for Parbuckeling.

[LeeB]

Choose your staging area well with the logs slightly up hill from, or at least level to the mill. Invest in a good cant hook from Logrite (one of the forum sponsors), and roll the logs to the mill. How are you going to get the logs to your building site? how will you unload and stack them? 

[YellowHammer]

I personally cut mine 6" over.

I get some nice walnut logs from a local mill when the loggers cut them to less than 8 feet.  They won't saw them, but I will ;D.

So I think less than 8 feet will make logs hard to sell to some mega hardwood mills.  

I milled up a couple crossties, and stage my logs on them to roll onto the mill loader arms.  With only two contact surfaces, the logs roll much easier than when on the ground.  

[Lumbergent]

Thanks Guys,
Where I'll be staging the logs there is a very slight slope so by staging over perpendicular logs as suggested they should roll nicely towards the mill. I'm hoping to have a 53 foot trailer with a clamp shell to unload.
Unfortunately help is very rare when you really need it especially during the work week. Maybe because I have difficulty in asking for it.
BTW It should be illegal to sell tractors without a front end loader. I feel like my arms are cut off when it comes to a lot of chores or manipulation that need to be done. I shopped around and they are almost as expensive as the price I paid for the Jinma.

[dboyt]

You might consider a rear forklift attachment like this one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m9sunNlxChA

[Kbeitz]

I have one attachment like that. 

[Lumbergent]

Thanks Dboyt
I think I can make one of those. Maybe a little simpler. A friend has some forks he can sell me for cheap. I'm also looking at making a rear loaded bucket for spreading crushed rock and manure