iDRY Vacuum Kilns

Sponsors:

Back at the homemade sawmill video added

Started by Georgia088, January 24, 2016, 04:52:02 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Georgia088

well, it's been a while, but I'm sawing again. I had a rather lengthy tread back a little less than a year ago. In which yall tried to explain to me how to straighten out all the flaws in my homemade mill build. I'm a little hard headed so it takes me longer than most...

Building sawmill (newbie) in Sawmills and Milling

Anyway, haven't used the mill much in several months, but cranked it up a couple of weeks ago to saw up some pecan. Planning to build a bar and chairs out of it.
My mill is a tire mill, and I still have trouble tracking the blade and keeping it on my guides when I tighten the tension down as tight as I think it should be. The blade runs off the front. I'm sure it's in my tire alignment, but I can't get it aligned where it should be to run at the tension id like. I'm thinking at some point I would like to go to bandsaw wheels instead of tires.
Has anyone switched from tires to regular band wheels? Or, does anyone have good pictures of how they attached bandsaw wheels to their frame?
Where can you buy inexpensive wheels?
What is the minimum size that you can use? 14" 16" etc. ?
Is the width across the thickness of the wheel crucial? (Could a 1-1/4 blade ride on a wheel that is 3/4" wide?

Lots of questions i know! Thanks in advance for the help!

ladylake



  Looking at the first pic on your old tread I don't  think  your frame is strong enough between the band wheels and is most likely flexing some when tensioning up your blades.  Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

Kbeitz

If you go to E-bay and type Band saw wheels you will se a lot of them for sale.
Different ones has different mounting holes.  Some people use double V-belt
pulleys with tight fitting belts in them
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Georgia088

Quote from: ladylake on January 24, 2016, 06:24:17 AM


  Looking at the first pic on your old tread I don't  think  your frame is strong enough between the band wheels and is most likely flexing some when tensioning up your blades.  Steve

I thought the same thing, but in that tubing that runs across between the band wheels is a solid piece of square metal. I added it. There is also a piece of 1-1/2 angle that runs perpendicular to that tubing to the back brace on the frame.
All that being said, I do think something has to be flexing for the tracking to change when you tighten the tension. But I don't see how it can be the frame between the wheels with all this added support.
The only things I can figure is that either the axel on the drive wheel is flexing (it is the rear end off of a golf cart) or
The bearings inside the wheels are flexing. I don't know how to correct either of these...
What do you think? Any ideas?
Thanks!


DMcCoy

I bought pulleys at Surplus center and use B57 belts. This has worked well for me

gww

georg....
My homemade mill flexes if I put too much tension on the band.  I can only go as tight as I can go.  I have tried to beef mine up but believe it takes a pretty strong frame.  It can tension alot higher when I turn it by hand but when I add power from the motor, the band wants to ride off the front of my mill.  It you go with a pully system insted of tires, I believe you will still need to strengthen the frame where the pullies are attached.  If you come up with an answer, I hope you post more pictures so I can steal some ideals.  Mine is cutting just barely good enough that I can't work up the excitement to fix it further.
Good luck
gww

Georgia088

Quote from: DMcCoy on January 24, 2016, 10:18:04 PM
I bought pulleys at Surplus center and use B57 belts. This has worked well for me

And what kind of wheel do you have your band blade running on? What size? Where did you get it?

Thanks!

gww

One thought would be that if you could get a shaft that went all the way through the wheel to a bar like you have it attached to in back put on front also, it would be stronger.  Something like on these pages.

http://kruppt.tripod.com//reworked/index.html

Good luck
gww

Georgia088

Quote from: gww on January 24, 2016, 10:38:43 PM
One thought would be that if you could get a shaft that went all the way through the wheel to a bar like you have it attached to in back put on front also, it would be stronger.  Something like on these pages.

http://kruppt.tripod.com//reworked/index.html

Good luck
gww

I like that idea. I want just trying to think of some way to connect a brace to the front. I think that would help. Would help hold axel and wheel bearings from flexing.

Any idea how they connected another shaft to the existing axel?

dustyhat

"And what kind of wheel do you have your band blade running on? What size? Where did you get it?"
DMcoy, is using pulley sheaves . and got them at surpluse center 18.5 . them are his band wheels.

gww

G

I really have no ideal except a shaft all the way through the wheels on pillow block bearings.  I would be carefull though cause you still need a way to change the blade pretty often and pretty easy.  I found that site after I built mine and find retrofitting stuff pretty hard after something is built.  I do like the ideal though.  On my mill I have just bearings with the pully being part of the wheel and no shaft.  Had I found this first I would have did it differrent.  If you have a shaft and could bring it all the way through the wheel and just get rid of the wheel bearing it would be easy to build it.  Then the problim would be the wheels being balanced perfectly on the shaft.  Pillow blocks on each side of the wheel would be your bearings.  I have never looked at golf cart bearings and so don't know how they are made.  If you go to the home page of the page I posted a link of, it may have some instruction.  I can't remember and haven't looked at it closely lately.
Good luck. 
gww

ladylake

Quote from: Georgia088 on January 24, 2016, 09:53:01 PM
Quote from: ladylake on January 24, 2016, 06:24:17 AM


  Looking at the first pic on your old tread I don't  think  your frame is strong enough between the band wheels and is most likely flexing some when tensioning up your blades.  Steve

I thought the same thing, but in that tubing that runs across between the band wheels is a solid piece of square metal. I added it. There is also a piece of 1-1/2 angle that runs perpendicular to that tubing to the back brace on the frame.
All that being said, I do think something has to be flexing for the tracking to change when you tighten the tension. But I don't see how it can be the frame between the wheels with all this added support.
The only things I can figure is that either the axel on the drive wheel is flexing (it is the rear end off of a golf cart) or
The bearings inside the wheels are flexing. I don't know how to correct either of these...
What do you think? Any ideas?
Thanks!



  I don't think a solid piece of metal inside a tube helps much, you really need something like a 3 x6 heavy wall tubing to support those wheels.   Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

DMcCoy

These are what I used.
http://www.surpluscenter.com/Power-Transmission/Pulleys/Split-Taper-Bushed-Bore-Pulleys/18-75-O-D-H-BUSHING-SINGLE-GROOVE-PULLEY-1-BKH190.axd

18.75" dia.

Doing the math you might think you could use B56 belts- Don't use B57

I used the largest shaft diameter allowed by the split taper bushings

Kbeitz

I thing one of your problems is that your running your blade to far out on the shaft.
If you change to different wheels try to keep your band in next to your frame.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Georgia088

If  I could figure out how to "beef" up mine from axle to axle on the front of mine, I would keep the tires.  Does anyone know how the member dblair attached the bar on his mill?  i found it on this thread and think it may work for me.  I just don't know how he attached it?  Is it just welded?  Here is the link:

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=64720.0

Thanks!

Georgia088

Quote from: Kbeitz on January 25, 2016, 07:49:53 AM
I thing one of your problems is that your running your blade to far out on the shaft.
If you change to different wheels try to keep your band in next to your frame.

I guess I should update my pictures.  I changed the tires from the big fat golf cart tires to trailor tires.  This did make the blade ride as close to the frame as I can get it and did help!  But it is still apparently flexing and causing it to pull the non drive and/or drive wheel inward.  This apparently makes the blade track outward. 

beenthere

Quote from: Georgia088 on January 25, 2016, 08:55:00 AM
.......

I guess I should update my pictures.  ...................

Just don't remove any of them.. add new ones for us.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Georgia088








After more tinkering. I have concluded that both wheels are "toeing" in under the tension of the blade.

Any ideas how to "beef" it up?

Thanks!

MikeZ

Did you put a bearing at the other end of axle or is it floating? Might be that one tapered roller wheel bearing does not hold laterally when blade is tightened.
MikeZ  Homemade  Mill

Kbeitz

You could take two flat plates with four holes eaxh and bolt one each to the inside of each wheel.
Have a solid shaft welded to the center of each plate and true it up with a lathe.
Mount two pillar block bearings one on each shaft. Then bolt a long heavy duty turn
buckle fast to both bearings. This would give you an adjustable toe.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Georgia088

Quote from: MikeZ on January 25, 2016, 09:41:32 PM
Did you put a bearing at the other end of axle or is it floating? Might be that one tapered roller wheel bearing does not hold laterally when blade is tightened.

These were just the bearings that came with the wheel mount off of a golf cart. I just cut everything that attached the wheel  to the golf cart and mounted it to steel plates on one side.

The other side is the actual read end off of the golf cart. "Chunk" and all. My motor turns the rear end of the golf cart which turns the drive wheel of the mill.

So the only bearings are the ones that were originally in the golf cart.


Georgia088

Quote from: Kbeitz on January 26, 2016, 04:13:22 AM
You could take two flat plates with four holes eaxh and bolt one each to the inside of each wheel.
Have a solid shaft welded to the center of each plate and true it up with a lathe.
Mount two pillar block bearings one on each shaft. Then bolt a long heavy duty turn
buckle fast to both bearings. This would give you an adjustable toe.

I see what you're saying for the non drive wheel. However, the drive wheel is connected to the rear end of a golf cart. It's the axle wheel bearing "chunk" and all. To do what you're saying to this side; I would have to eliminate all of this?
Thanks.

Georgia088

Quote from: DMcCoy on January 25, 2016, 07:47:32 AM
These are what I used.
http://www.surpluscenter.com/Power-Transmission/Pulleys/Split-Taper-Bushed-Bore-Pulleys/18-75-O-D-H-BUSHING-SINGLE-GROOVE-PULLEY-1-BKH190.axd

18.75" dia.

Doing the math you might think you could use B56 belts- Don't use B57

I used the largest shaft diameter allowed by the split taper bushings

I would still like to figure out how to get mine working good with the tires I have on, but I am really considering going to the wheels like your set up DMcCoy.

So, you are saying do not use B56 belt, and DO use B57 belt Correct?

Also, what kind of bearing did you get to fit in the vpulley? and where did you get it?  I think I answered my own question is this what you got? 

http://www.surpluscenter.com/Power-Transmission/Pulleys/Split-Taper-Bushed-Bore-Pulley-Hubs/1-25-KEYED-H-BUSHING-1-2913-125.axd

I assume that you would then just need a 1.25" shaft?

Thanks for all the help!

Nick

Kbeitz

Quote from: Georgia088 on January 26, 2016, 05:22:41 AM
Quote from: Kbeitz on January 26, 2016, 04:13:22 AM
You could take two flat plates with four holes eaxh and bolt one each to the inside of each wheel.
Have a solid shaft welded to the center of each plate and true it up with a lathe.
Mount two pillar block bearings one on each shaft. Then bolt a long heavy duty turn
buckle fast to both bearings. This would give you an adjustable toe.

I see what you're saying for the non drive wheel. However, the drive wheel is connected to the rear end of a golf cart. It's the axle wheel bearing "chunk" and all. To do what you're saying to this side; I would have to eliminate all of this?
Thanks.

No you wouldnt... Did you ever see the homemade wheel weigh adapters sold on Ebay?
they bolt fast using the wheel lugs. A round shaft poles out to  hang lifting weights on.
almost the same thing. Need a drawing ?
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Kbeitz

 

 

This will extend your axle shaft out front.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Thank You Sponsors!