Wished to share with you some of my latest modified traditional Japanese Shou-sugi-ban (焼杉板) wood burning methods applied on my upcoming timber frame and log construction union. I am working with rough sawn spruce that I have been harvested by my own 2 years ago in winter time. I have made all the joinery and before putting it all together I am doing following.... As I am, if I can say that - a "surface addict", I wished to make my frame look rustic and more medieval. So the question of the surface is the question of the feelings you can get when entering in any house or barn. So impressed by Japanese Shou-sugi-ban I decided to burn all the frame with a gas flame, take the burnt surface between the fibers out with a simple hand wire brush and finally treat it with hot linseed oil. And I got two things - the surface I wished to see and a natural treatment for longevity that fire and linseed oil did. I will be rising up only the sills and posts, then will come hand hewn log infill and only after that I will be putting up girts and rafters. Will post some progress shots here. So here you can see the pictures from my work site with my wood burning experience.
"Burn the frame, before you rise it..."
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Interesting looking finish. Oil sure does cause the water to bead. I look forward to following your progress!
I like the dark look too.
Did you add something to the linseed oil to darken it also?
I bet it would make a nice frame contrast with some clean light colored tongue & groove ceiling and walls.
Thanks for sharing and I'll look for updates too.
That is cool 8) I might have to try it on some timbers. I bet it will give a unique smell to the frame too.
Will it give off an odor in the house?
I'm curious the difference in application of hot vs room temp. oil.
Thanks for sharing, also curious about hot vs room temp oil.....
Even if that linseed takes months to flash it will be worth it.
Quote from: AMB30518 on May 13, 2012, 05:38:02 PM
I like the dark look too.
Did you add something to the linseed oil to darken it also?
I bet it would make a nice frame contrast with some clean light colored tongue & groove ceiling and walls.
Thanks for sharing and I'll look for updates too.
No, the oil darkens by the burnt surface.
Quote from: zelpatsmot on May 14, 2012, 12:27:45 PM
Thanks for sharing, also curious about hot vs room temp oil.....
Even if that linseed takes months to flash it will be worth it.
Hot (almost boiling temperature) linseed oil reacts with the wood better and goes deeper inside between the fibers. After the oil dries there is some spots where it did not dry. So I was heating those spots with the gas flame and the oil went into the wood and dried completely.
How long did it take to dry? Other than the odd spot as you said.
I have to try this... Grateful of your post.
nice look. is there any documented preservative advantage?
I've been doing this on interior projects, but using sunflower oil. Leaves a really nice finish and does not mildew.
Nebruks,
Are you aware that Makita makes a power brush? It has wire brush, synthetic brush, and flapwheel heads available for it. If you like the finish, it might save you a lot of labor.
http://www.timberwolftools.com/tools/makita/M-9741.html (http://tp://www.timberwolftools.com/tools/makita/M-9741.html)
Watch the video demo of this tool on the webpage.
i am a bit late to this party but,
if you are using this technique of "aging" wooden surfaces, use all protective measures you can. Full body suit, respiratory protection, gloves, goggles and the best ventilation you can get.
While the result looks really good, the process is extremely unhealthy even with an hand wire brush. Motorized hand-held equipment makes the situation even worse.
The dust of burnt wood you are kicking up is so fine, it's clogging the pores of your skin, is crawling under your mask and again, is extremely unhealthy. Working a coal mine is a joke compared to brushing burned wood.
Have had the "Luck" to work on a project a couple years back that had wood burning/ brushing involved.
Next time someone ask me to do something like that, I'll turn around and walk away...
Even though i don't remember the details, a couple years back i read an article about cleaning up burnt forests. Not sure who brought it up, the author or the cutting crew, there was a major concern about health issues as well related to the black dust...
If you decide to use it anyway, you can skip the linseed or any other chemical treatment. The burnt surface will protect the wood from the elements better than anything. It's a ancient technique protecting wood, that has been used for ages.
Be safe. Venice
Just wondering if there is an update to this project, or if there is a burnt smell if used in the interior?
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I love the look of burnt wood! I definately plan on burning some or maybe all the timbers in my next home. posting a few pics of signs I made by burning the wood, brushing and sanding to highlight.
Sweet. Did you seal it?
Maybe this is a good thread to explore other natural finishes as well. I am interested in the steel wool and vinegar aging technique. also, I have seen a video where extremely strong black tea was used. The steelwool and vinegar can be applied after where it reacts chemically with the tannins in the tea and the wood and "ebonizes" the fibers. It apparently turns the wood very dark. I am just wondering how these techniques hold up to uv etc. I am planning on trying all these techniques and applying some clear landark exterior finish with the fungicide and uv blocker over top. Is there any one out there that has tried these other methods?
Funny you mention that you mention the steel and vinegar technique. I am working on a White Oak frame right now that is using that. The first coat went on today, still too pale and blueish. So more coats will go on. I'll get some pics up in the next couple of days...
In the video I watched they used pickling vinegar, I dont know what difference it makes. When she added that mixture to the wood with the tea in it, it really darkened. I like the idea of actually changing the colour of the wood fiber rather than adding colour particulates for some reason.
Looks like there is now a video to go along with this post.
https://youtu.be/ErGQ0rXkn74
That is a true craftsman. Thanks for posting.
Now that is a build. Outstanding craftsmen's work.
That's impressive, great job.
wabi, sabi, kensho
WOW!
What craftsmanship, what time commitment! Great video and enjoyed the pictures of the family sprinkled in to help show the reasons for the home. The age of the girls also gave some idea of the time.
Thank you for sharing.
Great Video! very inspiring. I have two covered porches that I plan on installing new porch flooring this spring. I'm going with WO 4/4x6 rough sawn. At first I didn't know how I wanted to finish the floor (paint or stain/seal). After seeing the video on Shou-Sugi-ban it peaked my interest. I've done some research and have only seen it done on siding. Does anybody have any knowledge on this technique being used on porch flooring ? Also does it raise the grain and would I torch all four sides?
Thanks for your consideration,
Rob
To me in that video, it looked like it did raise the grain of the wood. Kind of burn off in between the growth rings of the wood. I like it a bunch and I'm thinking if I could do it with timbers already raised, building already closed it. I might do it. Would have to have a fire watch, I guess. ;D
WOW! Well worth watching that video. Amazing craftsmanship!
Supurb
wow, Nebruks, my hats off to you sir. After doing just a couple of crucks and about a dozen braces, I had enough ;D To do siding on your entire house....just wow smiley_thumbsup_grin
The process definitely raises the grain, here is a shot of what it did to a 300 year old chunk of doug fir
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I wonder if one could get away using a drill with a wirewheel? Going to give that a try once things dry up around here on some scrap lumber.
Hi,
I have followed this thread with some interest and yesterday I was fortunate to observe first hand a very simple demonstration by Professor Terunobu Fugimori in which he produced charred planks using nothing more than a newspaper, some wire and a match.
I have posted some photos of this process] (http://oxfordshirewoodlandgroup.co.uk/forum/?mingleforumaction=viewtopic&t=380.0#postid-700) illustrating how this is achieved.
Chilterns
Chilterns
I have just watched this video and with tears streaming down my cheeks I understand the true beauty of craftsmanship. I will never have the experience of building my own home (not house) nor will I ever be able to create something so meaningful with my own two hands and this makes me sad for my loss.
The wonder of taking trees God has provided us from standing timber to logs and crafting necessary building materials that with skill culminate into a structure resplendent in artistry and strength. Seeing how this results in a dwelling that embodies the witness of a strong family and humanity is truly a wonder to behold.
The video is first rate as well as a delight to listen to. Thank you for posting this to share.
Instead of brushing with scotch brite or a steel brush and getting all that black dust everywhere how would power washing work? I feel like on the right preaaure it would work perfectly and put out no dust.
By what means are people thinking charring is altering or protecting the sound, uncharred, unchanged, plain ol nekkid wood just below the scorched surface ???. As a finish it is aesthetically appealing, as a preservative I suspect most of the hype is pure flippin magic.
Awesome video! It took me a year to build my home using purchased materials and modern power tools while working a full time job. Hats off to these young Northmen!
Quote from: Don P on August 07, 2022, 12:25:11 PM
By what means are people thinking charring is altering or protecting the sound, uncharred, unchanged, plain ol nekkid wood just below the scorched surface ???. As a finish it is aesthetically appealing, as a preservative I suspect most of the hype is pure flippin magic.
Doesn't that rot and bugs have to get in there somehow? I'm not the woods scientist you are, but I always figured that charring helped by making an inhospitable surface for microbes and such to gain purchase upon. Maybe wouldn't do much for you if you set the wood in the dirt, but I can't see why it wouldn't help exterior surfaces up off of the ground. Boracare doesn't soak in too deep either, but we seem to trust that stuff to help keep the nasties at bay.