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NEW Central Boiler Install

Started by DDW_OR, September 08, 2016, 05:57:19 PM

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DDW_OR

I am installing a CB 750 Edge into a Palm Harbor double wide.
will be posting what i do and what i should Not do.
Update 11/27/2020 - what i did wrong and how i fixed it
NEW Central Boiler Install in Firewood and Wood Heating

Central Boiler 750 - not a happy customer - serious issues with cleaning in Firewood and Wood Heating

Foundation
Used a pad of 3/4 minus gravel, leveled and flattened.
built a 2x4 wood frame about 2 inches bigger that the minimum furnace footprint
then placed concrete wire mesh inside the frame.
then mixed two bags at a time of 80# UPC 764661102809
NOTE - add the water for 2 bags, then add one bag at a time, mixing each bag.


   


   
Process = add water for 2 bags, add one bag, mix, then add second bag, mix, then use tractor to lift mixer and move it over area to pour.


 
lifted wire mesh after each pouring to place mesh into center of concrete
"let the machines do the work"

DDW_OR

now to get the furnace off the trailer. height including trailer is 10 feet
CB states the weight of the 750 is, 2,527 lbs.
I have a Bobcat 331,
max lift height is 12 feet
Max lift weight is  2,416 lb

and a Mahindra 5520 4x4,
max lift height is 10 feet 6 inches
Max lift weight is  3,200 lb

i will try removing the excavator bucket and maybe the thumb assembly.
then lift furnace. if that does not work then rent a crane.

CB states the furnace is top lift only.
"let the machines do the work"

DDW_OR

got the CB onto the pad, got a Bobcat E80 Excavator.
using the Bobcat 331 and a 1 foot bucket, dug the trench for the ThermaPex, Electric and Fresh water.
will add a 1.5 inch empty plastic pipe for future use.
"let the machines do the work"

DDW_OR

 


 
above photo - red line comes from CB-750 and connects to the Double Wall Heat Exchanger, then blue line to Heat Exchanger Coil


 
above photo - Blue line from water heater is changed to red. then blue line from Heat Exchanger Coil to CB-750
will have blue line re-plumbed to not block removal of squirrel cage fan


 
Photo above - trench is 12 inches wide and 4 feet deep. ThermoPex is in the bottom, then dirt. Electric and an empty 1.5 inch black plastic pipe 24 inches from ground level.


 
one of the two pipes in the ThermoPex has a black stripe to show the hot line.
In photo, Left pipe, top to bottom = Red shut-off valve, Taco 007 Pump, yellow T-valve with male garden hose connection, Black stripe pipe
Right pipe, top to bottom = Green shut-off valve, one way check valve, un-marked pipe

the male garden hose connection is only used to remove air from the heating loop.
"let the machines do the work"

Czech_Made


thecfarm

You will like it!!
I filled my trenches with sand and put about 4 inches of top soil on top.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Upstateguy650

Following.  Interested in how people like the edge model series.  Have had my eye on them recently. 

Roger2561

When the E-Clasic 1400 ends it's usefulness I'll be looking into the Edge OWB.  Plus, I think I'll upgrade from the 1" thermopex I installed with the 1400 to the 1 1/4" thermopex for the Edge.  I wish I had purchased the large size thermopex when I installed the 1400 but hindsight is 20/20.  Roger
Roger

DDW_OR

"let the machines do the work"

DDW_OR

here is what i did the the downdraft electric furnace (EF).

I built a wood frame work to extend the front of the EF

 
placed the washable filter into the back side of the EF door
used magnets to attach EF door in wood frame

  
luckily there was a 3/4 inch gap on each side of the EF

 
used an Indoor/Outdoor thermometer to measure coil temp. used a magnet to hold Outdoor probe to coil

  
to make sure the air comes only through the coil I built a two sided box around the pex pipes and a plywood front for the squirrel cage fan. used 1x2 to reinforce the plywood.
used weather stripping to make an air tight connections.

 
"let the machines do the work"

DDW_OR

Electric Furnace (EF ) Heat Exchanger Coil

coil is glued to the opening

 
"let the machines do the work"

DDW_OR

the heat from the CB-750 is MUCH better that the heat from the Electric Furnace.
this is primarily due to the fact that the coil is always hot, so it heats all of the air in the EF cabinet.

did some temp measurements and found a problem. EF coil is 179 and the Water Heater coil is 80.

stopped adding wood to the 750 on 11/30/2016. been stirring the coals and wood chunks until nothing is left to burn.
12/2/2016 display on 750 reads FO = Fire Out
12/4/2016 Temp at EF coil is 118
"let the machines do the work"

boilerman101

I'm not following you here. You have 179 degree water at EF coil and 80 at water heater coil? Why did you quit adding wood?

DDW_OR

for 3 days the temps were EF = 170+ and WH = 80.
the CB water flow should go to the domestic Water Heater then to the EF coil.
so since the EF coil was hotter i determined that the CB water was plumbed backwards.
working with 180+ water will burn. so shutting down the CB was the best idea.
the plumbing will be fixed this Friday 12/9/2016.
"let the machines do the work"

overclocking

I highly doubt your getting a 90* temp drop with that little of an exchanger. Your reading might be off a bit.

I see what your saying about the water heater getting heat first, that's how mine is hooked up. Doesn't make sense to me though, because it was so darn hot, I had to put a scolding valve in and crank it all the way up to get it so it wont burn you.

That boiler is huge for a double wide. It should roast you right of there. Hopefully you plan to heat a garage too so you can use more of its potential. Or better yet, add radiant floor heat.

My 1400 heats my big house so hot, at times I have to open the doors.

How many feet of head are you pushing with that 007?

DDW_OR

during the three day run the outside was +40F, and house was +73F
i do not have radiant floor heat. if i did i probably would bake

future additions:
Green House
Hot Tub
Kiln?

Measurement:
Fluke 62 Mini Infrared Thermometer Gun
http://www.fluke.com/fluke/inen/Electrical-Test-Tools/Thermometers/Fluke-62.htm?PID=56096

Hot water heater now has a scolding valve

feet of head = 6 foot rise, run = 50 feet
"let the machines do the work"

DDW_OR

It looks like he connected the two heat exchangers in parallel rather than in series



 

in photo
Right is 107 Heat Exchanger Coil
center is thermopex from CB-750
Left is from water heater coil.
"let the machines do the work"

DDW_OR

Red 2 is the hot from CB-750
Blue 2 is the return to CB-750

TO FIX
remove both T connecters
connect RED 2 to RED 3
connect blue 3 to RED 1
connect blue 1 to blue 2


 
"let the machines do the work"

ibbob

Since you have to re-plumb it, run to the furnace first then into the top of the side arm out the bottom and back outside
Bob

DDW_OR

The buried ThermoPex that runs between the CB-750 and the house has two pipes. one with a black stripe and one with no stripe. the black stripe is the send, the no stripe is the return. that part is done correctly.

it is when the two heating coils are connected to the ThermoPex is where the problem is 


 
in the drawing above the ThermoPex is in green.
the water heater coil has a double wall to prevent drinking water mixing with the CB-750 water.
the correct flow is from CB through ThermoPex black stripe tube to waterheater coil
then from waterheater coil to Furnace coil #107
then back to CB using the no-stripe tube
"let the machines do the work"

DMcCoy

I'm not seeing flow control valves or zone valves.

ibbob

Switch the red and blue at the thermo pex and you'll have it right.  Hot has to go in the top of the side arm to make it work
Bob

DDW_OR



 
this is how the waterheater coil is plumbed now
I am waiting for the plumber that did the crawl space work to come back and fix his mistake.
"let the machines do the work"

DDW_OR

the outside temps have been around +18 to +38. one load of madrone wood, 22 inch long, in the CB-750 has lasted FOUR days. the inside temp is +72
"let the machines do the work"

coxy

Quote from: ibbob on December 19, 2016, 09:43:52 AM
Switch the red and blue at the thermo pex and you'll have it right.  Hot has to go in the top of the side arm to make it work
I looked at that 4 times and couldn't figure out what didn't look right :)  I have my hot water hooked up on the return loop to keep it a little cooler I run my old owb at 200 for my base board my new used owb I can only set it at 195  :(  I'm to cheap/lazy to put a mixing valve in

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