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log tenon cutters

Started by Joey Grimes, December 25, 2015, 07:53:17 PM

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Kbeitz

Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Kbeitz

Quote from: dboyt on December 28, 2015, 12:08:31 PM
I use a "Cylinder Mill" jig for my table saw.  I've only had it a short time, but it did a great job turning a new 5' handle for my cant hook (Osage orange).  It has several advantages.  It lines up the ends of the log so that the tenons are perfectly aligned, allows either square or rounded shoulders, and will cut tapered tenons, if you want.  I'm looking forward to using it more.

I had to look that one up...
Thats one neat tool...
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

valley ranch

 yukon cornelius, Thanks for posting that about the metal case drills. I have saws, drills and such, the insulation not in that good condition, never gave it a thought.

Richard

DMcCoy

Quote from: customsawyer on December 26, 2015, 08:08:52 AM
This is the only experience I have with making tenons and doubt if it counts. ;D


 

A small cushion would make a great accessory. You could call it a stool softener.

Kbeitz

Quote from: valley ranch on December 28, 2015, 07:09:38 PM
yukon cornelius, Thanks for posting that about the metal case drills. I have saws, drills and such, the insulation not in that good condition, never gave it a thought.

Richard

You should be safe if your cord has the grounding prong on the plug and if your outlets are grounded.
At my sawmill or any place I have a receptacle out side I alway run an extra ground rod.
If the short has a place to go your should be safe. Best to have a  GFI.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

KirkD

Quote from: Kbeitz on December 28, 2015, 04:43:27 PM
Quote from: dboyt on December 28, 2015, 12:08:31 PM
I use a "Cylinder Mill" jig for my table saw.  I've only had it a short time, but it did a great job turning a new 5' handle for my cant hook (Osage orange).  It has several advantages.  It lines up the ends of the log so that the tenons are perfectly aligned, allows either square or rounded shoulders, and will cut tapered tenons, if you want.  I'm looking forward to using it more.

I had to look that one up...
Thats one neat tool...

And easy enough to build.
Wood-mizer LT40HD-G24 Year 1989

Fundyheather

Method 1:

Picture a dado cutter in a dedicated junk table saw, having a taper ended steel spike finger protruding directly and horizontally over top and forward of the running dado cutter.  The spike finger assembly is bolted to the table behind the dado cutter.  The spike finger is attached to this assembly with a hinge in such a way that the spike can pivot upwards from horizontal, but not at all downwards below horizontal.  A small counter weight (or a tight hinge) lightly keeps the finger raised up from horizontal toward 45 degrees.  The radius of the finished tenon equals the distance between the center of the spike finger and the top of the dado cutter, so tenon radius is adjustable at the table saw, and the tenon length is adjusted depending on the length of wood fed forward.

Now drill a hole in the end of a stick of wood, hole being the depth of the spike finger and slightly bigger than the diameter of the spike.

Gently feed the wood down into the spike at about 45 degrees until the wood contacts the dado cutter.  Slowly rotate the wood as you also decline the wood toward horizontal, cutting a big finished tenon with tapered shoulders in one go (with not insignificant personal danger.)

Method 2:

In something big, say a fence rail held projecting off a work table, freehand bore into the center end with say a 2" or 3" hollow auger.  Let the restraints off the fence rail and chatter in towards the base of the hollow auger hole with a small chainsaw, in such a way that the chainsaw is kind of rotating the fence rail for you until a donut of wood can be removed to expose your tenon.  Flare the tenon shoulders back with the saw if you want.  Then use a matching sized big forstner type bit to cut the tenon hole in your fencepost say, drive it all home and pin it.  Best if your fence rails are kind of dry so they will swell into the damp posts.

Good luck, I hope you can afford better equipment so it never has to come down to this.

jim

   

yukon cornelius

Quote from: valley ranch on December 28, 2015, 07:09:38 PM
yukon cornelius, Thanks for posting that about the metal case drills. I have saws, drills and such, the insulation not in that good condition, never gave it a thought.

Richard

Your welcome. If it is well grounded you should be fine but if you make a better ground than the ground as in a slightly worn receptical or plug or a wire that has began to break inside the sheath or you have sweaty hands or if your ground rod gets dry around it or just not well grounded. After the accident I decided I would pass it on to everyone I can. It might not be you but a loved one that gets the bad end.
It seems I am a coarse thread bolt in a world of fine threaded nuts!

Making a living with a manual mill can be done!

Downstream

i went through the same thoughts a few months ago wanting to make tenon joints but not wanting to spend a bunch of money on the cutters for every diameter.  I found a video online showing a guy with a simple jig that mounts to a router table.  the jig has a quarter inch shaft(i used long bolt with head cut off) sticking out over hanging the router bit.  you drill a  hole in the end of the piece you want to cut the tenon into that matches the shaft diameter.  you adjust the height of the router bit to the center line of the shaft in the jig to make any diameter tenon you want.  you slowly rotate the piece in your hand as you push it onto the shaft and it cuts a nice tenon to whatever depth or diameter you want.  the type of router bit profile determines shape of transition from tenon to dull diameter log.  I always start out slightly larger than required finished diameter so i can fine tune for the tightest fit by bringing up the router with it's fine tuning adjustment.  im still improving the method but have made some nice benches using 2" tenon size.   I will take a photo of my set-up later and attach if anyone is interested.
EZ Boardwalk Jr,  Split Second Kinetic logsplitter, Granberg Alaskan Chainsaw Mill, Stihl 660 and 211, Logrite 60" cant hook, Dixie 32 Tongs

Kbeitz

Antique tenon cutters was adjustable to different sizes.
They show up on ebay from time to time.
I have a few...



 



 
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

tmarch

Seeing the tenon cutter on the lathe got me to thinking ???  I have a Shopsmith, and I'm thinking using clamps to hold the log and use the boring feed to cut the tenon.  Thinking it would be easier to control the cut that way.
Retired to the ranch, saw, and sell solar pumps.

Kbeitz

I dont have it finished yet but I'm going to make a sliding clamp that fits
in the long slot on my lathe bed. it will look something like this.
The log will go between the two rails of steel that will be kinda V shaped.



 
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Fundyheather

Pawed around in the basement to find my old tenon rig.  Bolts down onto a table saw mounting a dado cutter. Cut a guide hole in your stock to match the 'finger.'  Come down into the dado at about 45 degrees while slowly spinning the stock, declining to horizontal and feeding forward into the dado as you go.  Must have upwards of $5 invested here.   





beenthere

A bit more about how it works and makes a tenon. Appears to be a stove pipe connected to it, and a stone to hold it up.  Are there better shots of what it does and what the guide hole is?
Sounds clever, but just not seeing it...
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

isawlogs

 Beenthere.... the pipe is connected to his stove, the patio stone is on the stove, the tenon cutter is on the patio stone resting on a stone. I would also like to see it set up!!!
A man does not always grow wise as he grows old , but he always grows old as he grows wise .

   Marcel

Kbeitz

Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

breederman

Together we got this !

GrahamW


Joey Grimes

Thanks for posting video of tablesaw jig it's got me thinking.Ive made a lot of tablesaw jigs but this one is amazing! !
94 woodmizer lt40 HD kabota 5200 ford 4000 94 international 4700 flatbed and lots of woodworking tools.

whitepine2

Quote from: yukon cornelius on December 28, 2015, 11:06:28 PM
Quote from: valley ranch on December 28, 2015, 07:09:38 PM
yukon cornelius, Thanks for posting that about the metal case drills. I have saws, drills and such, the insulation not in that good condition, never gave it a thought.

Richard

Your welcome. If it is well grounded you should be fine but if you make a better ground than the ground as in a slightly worn receptical or plug or a wire that has began to break inside the sheath or you have sweaty hands or if your ground rod gets dry around it or just not well grounded. After the accident I decided I would pass it on to everyone I can. It might not be you but a loved one that gets the bad end.

Yes many years ago when I was a P.O. it fell upon me to notify a young 27 year old wife that her husband would never be coming home again. He was employed at the Boston Navel Ship Yard and on a very hot and humid day he was drilling on a deck and sweat had run down and zapped him. That's all I was told as he was 50 miles away and didn't have all the information but it's something one never forgets very,very sad. Ya never know when your time is up just gotta be careful always.

69bronco

Thanks Graham! That's slicker than snot on a doorknob. .

Fundyheather

Hi guys from Jim, nice newsgroup you have here.

I dug out the rest of my old tenon contraption for action shots, now posted to my gallery.  Hope I make some sense now. 

I'm using a wobble dado blade set to 1/2" on a junk table saw.  The 'finger' is about 3/8 th, the loop in the back is a counterweight; although when I welded in the hinge the heat warped and jammed it a bit, which was even better. 

The contraption can be elevated on the table by adding washer like shims to admit larger stock, but you may also have to get a bigger diameter dado to make that work. 

A longer finger would allow longer tenons.  With existing setup, I can get a longer tenon by advancing the stock forward and backward as much as I dare when I'm down horizontal from the table.  I often go with whatever it gives me, just trimming off, or shaving down the 'bulb' end at the front of the stock. 

The initial guide hole in the stock wants to be slightly bigger than the guide finger, and if not freehanding the guide hole, a drill jig could be devised.     

Your first setup cut is a test cut to determine actual tenon width, which will be close to twice the radius of the distance between the center of guide 'finger' and the top of the dado.  So in a plank, using a forstner bit of your desired size, drill a hole and see if you can hammer your test tenon into it.  Adjust forstner bit size or dado height until you get what you want.

'Depending,' you probably want your tenon stock to be drier than your receiving stock so the joint will lock itself up.  Outside work, I use a deck screw as a pin.  I mostly used this thing in fences and railings.  My preference in more anal work is to be fussy about stock sizing, using matching forstner bits to join all my bark surfaces so no raw wood shows whenever possible.

Good luck and be careful with these homebrew saw things!
jim   

   





tawilson

Seeing as this thread came up just as I had a question about tenon cutting I'll ask it here. I just picked up a Dewalt DW124 right angle drill and wondered how it would work. It has a low speed of 300 rpm with a clutch. Thanks.
Tom
2017 LT40HDG35 WIDE
BMS250 and BMT250 sharpener/setter
Woodmaster 725

Kbeitz

Sounds like the right drill for the job... Does it have two handles across from each other?
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

tawilson

Not exactly.  Long body with a handle on  the back and one out the side. It's made for drilling holes through wood so I guess it should be good.
Tom
2017 LT40HDG35 WIDE
BMS250 and BMT250 sharpener/setter
Woodmaster 725

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