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small logs on an LT40

Started by Dan_Shade, March 03, 2010, 08:51:31 PM

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Dan_Shade

a friend, and good customer, of mine called me this evening and asked how small a log I could cut, I told him the normal of 8" diameter.

Turns out, he found a large pile of small cedar logs, that will probably yeild 4 or 5" square cants.

Have any of you made any types of jigs to secure small logs on the mill?
Woodmizer LT40HDG25 / Stihl 066 alaskan
lots of dull bands and chains

There's a fine line between turning firewood into beautiful things and beautiful things into firewood.

DR Buck

Take lots of extra bands with you for when the logs jump out of the clamps.   :o
Been there, done that.   Never got caught [/b]
Retired and not doing much anymore and still not getting caught

Dan_Shade

i was thinking of building a jig where I could end dog the logs
Woodmizer LT40HDG25 / Stihl 066 alaskan
lots of dull bands and chains

There's a fine line between turning firewood into beautiful things and beautiful things into firewood.

Magicman

No jig, but I have sawed 4" cants out of ERC many times.  Some so small that the "cant" ran out before the "log" did.  I just work with each individual log and get it held in place.  Hydraulic as well as manual side supports, toe boards, clamp, and luck.

For me, hourly rate.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Cedarman

Have all logs with small end toward mill head.  Have a shim board of about 3/4" thick to lay on first rail or second rail if log won't reach 1st rail.  I have tape attached so that I can flip the shim off and not have it fall away.  Cedar logs usually have 1" to 1 1/2" taper per 8'. So to saw parallel to the heart you need a shim that is 1/2 the difference in taper from the small end to the large.  Putting this shim on and off is lots faster than the hydraulic shim.
There are various ways of locking the log in.  We only moved the log 90 on each turn.  On the 3d cut we did not lock in.  Instead I would enter the log slowly and once in about a foot then would put down pressure on the log with my hand and do that while speeding up the saw head throught the log.  My son and I got very efficient when sawing thousands of 3 1/2 x 3 1/2 and 4x4 x 8'  With the old manual LT30 we could saw a log every 2 minutes as long as we had logs on the log deck.  We used a 4' rod with a hook to pull the next log on the mill.
I am in the pink when sawing cedar.

ladylake

I made a couple of jigs to hold 1-1/2 " square oak pieces upright, I cut 8 to 12" long pieces put them in and clamp those small logs or sticker boards against them . I just bolted some 1-1/2" ID tubing to a couple of the cross members. You can clamp that small stuff and saw right through the back stops then.   Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

bandmiller2

I got a good idea from brother Schmid,my swinging uprights are 2x2 x1/4 square tube near the top I'll drill and tap for a 3/8 bolt, sharpen the end to a point and when doing pesky small stuff screw it through for teeth to hold the log.Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

ARKANSAWYER


  I saw alot of 6 inch logs on mine and make 4x4's and 1x4's all the time.  I have sawn a 3 inch redbud log and made a 2x2 out of it.  He wanted it sawn so I sawed it.  I do take 4 inch logs and split them in half for hand rails and such for rustic work.  I do it by taking two deck screws run them up through a 2x4 and about 1 inch into the log.  Then clamp the 2x4 with the mill and saw away.   
ARKANSAWYER

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