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next project-cherry dresser-finishing questions

Started by flip, January 24, 2007, 08:48:38 AM

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flip

Well, jewelery box finished and I'm off to the next project a cherry mission style dresser.  I have plans I got online which are well within my abilities and machinery capabilities.  I know cherry is blotch prone and I have read a few articles in Wood and FWW about ways to minimize blotch.  What was said in one was to do a final sand with 320 or 400 before applying a dye or pigment stain then the topcoats.  The other suggested to use a wiping type finish that was oil based or tung oil followed by the top.  I am still finishing challenged but loved how the tung worked and I hate covering up the color of the wood (which is comming out of the kiln tonight).  Any help is appreciated especially those from the School of Hard Knocks. ;D

Flip
Timberking B-20, Hydraulics make me board quick

metalspinner

Are you planning on coloring the wood?

M<y method is to use a wiping varnish only.  Of course, no problems with blotching there. ;D  Spraying a dye on may help things go on evenly, but that is just an assumption on my part, having never done it.
I do what the little voices in my wife's head tell me to do.

WDH

Flip,

There are a couple of pics in my gallery of some cherry projects (a desk and a night table) where I used oil on the cherry with no other stain or colorant.  The oil was Minwax Antique Oil.  Once dry, you can topcoat with Minwax Fast Drying Polyurethane for extra protection.  If you apply a thin coat of the poly with a foam brush, you can achieve a beautiful smooth satin finish.  The oil really gives the cherry a nice natural tone and makes the wood glow.  The satin poly protects it.  You could also use an alykd varnish if you don't like polyurethane.  Works just as good.  Sherwin Williams makes a fast drying alykd varnish that I want to try (but have not tried it yet).  The key is to sand the project very smooth down to at least 220 grit.  Then rub the unfinished wood with 0000 steel wool to really polish the piece (or you could sand with finer grits) so that it shines when you view the wood from the side in the light.   Wipe on the oil per the directions on the label and be sure that it completely dries (usually in 24 hours if the humidity is not super high).   Buff with the 0000 steel wool again, then apply several thin coats of the poly.  This is just one of many ways to finish cherry.  I like the natural color.  You could do a sample piece to see if you like it.  If you use a water based finish, remember you cannot use steel wool because it has oil in it.
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

flip

I do not have any intentions of coloring the wood since the wood is already a nice rust tone.  Just want to highlight the grain and keep it all even, I blotched some oak on my bed and it looks like crap-ola.  I prefer the natural color of the wood also, hench my thought 3-4 coats of tung and a few coats of Min Wax wipe on poly.
Timberking B-20, Hydraulics make me board quick

WDH

Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

Radar67

Sounds like a good plan flip. I wouldn't top coat the tung oil with poly though. As the tung oil builds in layers, it gives a good seal and a good finish. Once I get back to the house, I'll get a picture of a bowl I did with several layers of oil on it.

Stew
"A man's time is the most valuable gift he can give another." TOM

If he can cling to his Blackberry, I can cling to my guns... Me

This will kill you, that will kill you, heck...life will kill you, but you got to live it!

"The man who can comprehend the why, can create the how." SFC J

pigman

Stain cherry. smiley_thumbsdown   I don't cover up the natural beauty of cherry. If someone wants me stain a cherry piece for them I send them down to the furniture store where they can buy some furniture with a cherry finish painted on a cheap wood. I do put on a good oil or film finish to protect the wood.

Bob
Things turn out best for people who make the best of how things turn out.

ohsoloco

I use oil based poly on most of the pieces that I build.  The first two coats are thinned about 50/50 with mineral spirits.  That stuff is just too thick right out of the can.  Last coat I put on a little thicker, maybe 75/25.  Man does cherry ever come alive when ya put something oil based on it  :)  It's amazing how much cherry darkens over the years too.

Radar67

Here are the pictures I said I would load. The bowl is from hickory. You can see the shine in the second picture. I sanded to 320 grit then started applying the tung oil. After each coat I used 0000 steel wool and continued to build layers. It has 5 coats on it.





Stew
"A man's time is the most valuable gift he can give another." TOM

If he can cling to his Blackberry, I can cling to my guns... Me

This will kill you, that will kill you, heck...life will kill you, but you got to live it!

"The man who can comprehend the why, can create the how." SFC J

beenthere

Sorry, but looks like oak to me. And I'd stay away from steel wool, as it can get into the pores, and turn black from reacting with the tannin in the oak. Might be why the dark spots are showing up.

Nice work, and don't wanta sound critical of your efforts to show a nice finish.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Radar67

Beenthere, no offense taken. This is hickory though. It still had some of the nuts on the tree when I took it out of the friends yard. The black in this piece is from spalt (I let the log sit for about 8 months before I sawed it up). If you look close, where the black lines are darkest, you'll notice a lighter area on the bottom of the bowl. This is the sapwood. There is an identical section on the other side of the bowl.

Stew
"A man's time is the most valuable gift he can give another." TOM

If he can cling to his Blackberry, I can cling to my guns... Me

This will kill you, that will kill you, heck...life will kill you, but you got to live it!

"The man who can comprehend the why, can create the how." SFC J

WDH

Radar67,

That is a fine finish!  Beautiful piece.  I have to too say (see appropriate thread) that that (see appropriate thread) is the oakiest looking hickory that I have ever seen.
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

Radar67

Not to get off subject, WDH, where are you at on the coast and how long you gonna be there?

Stew
"A man's time is the most valuable gift he can give another." TOM

If he can cling to his Blackberry, I can cling to my guns... Me

This will kill you, that will kill you, heck...life will kill you, but you got to live it!

"The man who can comprehend the why, can create the how." SFC J

WDH

I just got back from Gulfport, MS.  I will post some pics tomorrow.
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

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